Number Plate light Right Failure / Tailgate wiring new
#1
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After changing the tailgate wiring (every wire soldered + heatshrink)I still have the number Plate light Right Failure
Checked the wire from the original wire (next to the speaker) and no juice when lights are on or not
Have ordered a snake camera to check were the cable goes after the speaker / Also checked all the fuses and all is good
Anyone has a clue? where does the cable connect to so that I could check if there is continuity between the 2 ends? i guess it doesn't just connect to the light switch...
Thanks
Checked the wire from the original wire (next to the speaker) and no juice when lights are on or not
Have ordered a snake camera to check were the cable goes after the speaker / Also checked all the fuses and all is good
Anyone has a clue? where does the cable connect to so that I could check if there is continuity between the 2 ends? i guess it doesn't just connect to the light switch...
Thanks
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I can't recall if I read it here, or somewhere else, as someone who came up with a workaround (besides just giving up and seeing the message all the time / taking in the car) and that was to wire up the second light off the working light to get it working, though I'm not sure if that would make the message go away or not...
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mmarco50, I have the same problem!!!!!!!!!!
All wires now repaired but no juice from the +ve wire for the L/H numberplate bulb holder. The bulb failure message is now getting really annoying!
I had to piggyback off the R/H light to pass the MOT test.
Could the fault be now up front in the back of the fuse box? I can't see how that could be though.
If you figure out the fix, please let me know.
All wires now repaired but no juice from the +ve wire for the L/H numberplate bulb holder. The bulb failure message is now getting really annoying!
I had to piggyback off the R/H light to pass the MOT test.
Could the fault be now up front in the back of the fuse box? I can't see how that could be though.
If you figure out the fix, please let me know.
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Hi guys, sorry for reviving an old thread - I've now also got the same issue - started out the same way - broken wires, now repaired with new bulds and also still dead. Checked and no positive coming through... did anyone ever manage to get this sorted?
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MOT due this week so a quick fix had to be presented.
Method: take a single wire from any cable, I used a broken extension lead and took one of the three wires out, I threaded this through the car from the tail light, up behind the plastics in to the roof, through the speaker frame and down the shell of the tail gate, connect/solder one end to the tail light (top side), and the other to the right hand reg plate light to the end opposite the wire side.
both reg plate lights will work and so will the right side rear fog lamp, how?? I don’t know it just does...
If anyone can pin point this fault for a proper fix I would greatly appreciate the knowledge being shared.
#10
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I've heard several instances where the wires were broken in multiple places. When you did the repair do you happen to check voltage at the repair joint? I'm chasing the same issue, though the PO did what looks like a great repair with new wire, cloth wrapped plus a nice rubber sheath zip tied to provide a good radius for the hinge point but I wonder if that just forced a smaller bend radius farther up in the roof area. I've only had the car for a few months but the license plate error was not present at first. The previous repair was done about 2 years ago so it seems plausible for a new failure point. Once I get some time I'll dig in it.
Andy
Andy