E61 Touring Discussion The touring is also known as the wagon version of the 5 series.

Issues...lots of issues...and codes. HELP PLEASE!

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Old 04-03-2023, 09:22 PM
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Default Issues...lots of issues...and codes. HELP PLEASE!

Hello all,

I've had my 2006 530xi for just over 2 years now and I've done a bit of work to it. I'm stumped on this one though. I feel like I'm chasing multiple issues here. I'll try to explain it as briefly as possible but with all potentially relevant information. Here goes.I got new wheels and tires but I had to run spacers to make them fit.
When taking off the old wheels I had to beat on the driver’s rear quite a bit.
I drove the car for a few days then it randomly died at a red light even though it was running great. It had the AWD and DSC error on Idrive with “brake” illumintaed yellow and the 4x4 symbol on the dash.
It started right back up and I finished the drive to work. I turned the car off and back on and the error was gone.
When I got home I scanned it with ISTA and got the following codes:
53FC - VTG: Supply, control unit: terminal 30
55C3 - VTG: AWD limp-home control activated: No DSC specified nominal torque
55C5 - Message (engine torque 3 0xAA) error, receiver VTG, transmitter DME-DDE

The next day I took the car on a decently high speed round trip about 2 hours total. No issues.
The day after that I began a VCG replacement as I had a leak.
Along with the VCG I replaced the eccentric shaft sensor, disa valves, and the entire CCV system.
This process took a couple weeks because I broke the oil return pipe and had to order a new one.
Then I broke the wiring harness connector for the crankshaft position sensor when installing the intake manifold and had to order a new one.
I Pulled the battery and put it on a charger while I waited for parts. Battery is from 2015. I wasn't particularly careful with the IBS.
When I got the new connector pigtail and spliced it in, I attempted to plug it in without removing the intake manifold and I broke the crankshaft sensor connector housing so I ordered a new one and waited.
When I got the new crank sensor installed, I took the car for a drive around the block and it had a weird rumble.
I took another look at the crank sensor to check for leaks and saw it wasn’t seated properly.
I tried to push it down and I broke the sensor at the bolt.
I pulled the belly pan and found the old sensor that fell down there but I couldn’t find the o-ring so I had a minor freak out that it was in the oil pan.
I pulled the new broken crank sensor and found that I double stacked the o-ring.
I reinstalled the old crank sensor and cranked the car.
It still had a weird rumble.
I ran ISTA and it showed an injector code.
I pushed down on the injector connector and it snapped into place…must have come loose in the manifold removal/install process.
I started the car and she lit right up.
She drove great on a 20 minute test run.
I drove it to work the next day.
On the way home it died at a stop sign with the same original AWD and DSC malfunction error on Idrive.
It started right back up and I drove the rest of the way home.
I Scanned it with ISTA and got:
2E8E - BSD, message, intelligent battery sensor (IBS): Missing
51A7 - No message (engine speed), receiver EGS, transmitter DME-DDE
55C3 - VTG: AWD limp-home control activated. No DSC specified nominal torque
55C5 - Message (engine torque 3, 0xAA) error, receiver VTG, transmitter DME-DDE
5F76 - DSC: Engine management: interface
9C54 - IHKA: Auc sensor
9C7A - IHKA: Water valve, right
9D12 - SINE: Internal battery
E714 - Message (battery voltage, 0x3BE) faulty, receiver IHKA

I cleared all these and ran the car again and the only codes after another scan were:
2E8E - BSD, message, intelligent battery sensor (IBS): Missing
E714 - Message (battery voltage, 0x3BE) faulty, receiver IHKA

I Started the car again and it cranked for quite a while and I got a Transmission Malfunction on idrive with these codes:
2A94 - Crankshaft sensor signal
2AD0 - No message from transmission control unit, receiver DME, transmitter EGS/SMG
2E8E - BSD, message, intelligent battery sensor (IBS): Missing
51A7 - No message (engine speed), receiver EGS, transmitter DME-DDE
55C3 - VTG: AWD limp-home control activated. No DSC specified nominal torque
5EBA - DSC: Steering angle sensor, plausibility
9D12 - SINE: Internal battery
E714 - Message (battery voltage, 0x3BE) faulty, receiver IHKA

The car wouldn’t go into gear but it was in the wrong spot in my driveway so I cleared the errors again and it started fine with just these two errors again:
2E8E - BSD, message, intelligent battery sensor (IBS): Missing
E714 - Message (battery voltage, 0x3BE) faulty, receiver IHKA

I swapped it with my other car in the driveway and left it alone.

I think I have multiple issues here. The first is I think I broke the IBS when removing the battery. I didn’t know it was as sensitive as the repair write-ups say it is. The second I’m hoping is just a wheel speed sensor is damaged or slightly dislodged from all the banging I did to get the wheels removed. Lastly, I think I might have an issue with my 8 year old battery? It’s still reading 12.6 volts and it checked out good at Autozone but I’ve read enough posts to know what an issue the battery could be. I have a new Odyssey battery with the same specs as the one that was in the car but I’d like to return it if it isn’t necessary.

What should my course of action be? I read somewhere that I can use ISTA or INPA to check the ABS sensors? Does anyone have any more info on this? Should I just replace the IBS and associated wires? Is there a way to test the IBS? Should I just try the new battery first? Should I check the alternator? Honestly, I think I've done too much reading and I'm getting confused at this point. Please chime in if you have any ideas. Thanks and sorry for the long post!
Old 04-03-2023, 10:21 PM
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Do a load test on your battery. Pay special attention to how it recovers. Layman's battery load test; turn on lights, heater, electronics, defroster, etc for 1 minute. Battery should dip a little below 12v if not at all. Turn off all of the items you turned on. If the voltage jumps back to about 12.5 right away, you just failed the load test.

If I got a nickel for every time I was told a battery was good when it wasn't, I'd be rich.
Old 04-04-2023, 03:01 PM
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Thanks for the tip. Just to be clear, this is with just the ignition on and the engine not running, correct?
Old 04-04-2023, 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Abletobecain
Thanks for the tip. Just to be clear, this is with just the ignition on and the engine not running, correct?
Correct.
Old 04-04-2023, 03:28 PM
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Just ran the test. Started at 12.17, switched on headlights, radio, seat and steering wheel heater, and defrost. It dropped to 11.5. let it run for a min and shut everything off and it went 11.8.
Old 04-04-2023, 03:57 PM
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I think you got your answer with that test. Your battery needs to be replaced. I've never seen a battery last 8 years. NEVER!
Old 04-04-2023, 05:21 PM
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Can you explain what makes you know it failed? I'm not saying you're wrong, I just don't understand. How will a good battery perform on this test?

Also, is it possible for the IBS missing code to be thrown from a bad battery?

Lastly...I was looking through the process to register a new battery with ISTA but I couldn't get to the screen that let me choose the new battery stats. Do I need ISTA-P for that? I also noticed that the current battery is registered at 110Ah but the battery clearly says 95ah...what issues will that cause?
Old 04-04-2023, 05:57 PM
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Because your voltage dipped too low. Did the voltage recover? If so, did it recover fast or slowly? 12.17 was low to begin with.

Also,
  1. Incorrect registering can damage the battery.
  2. Inoperative IBS can damage the battery.
  3. Batteries lose a lot of charge capacity in 8 years.
Old 04-04-2023, 06:07 PM
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I will add, ISTA/P is for programming not maintenance work? You were in the wrong location to register the battery. You need to be in service function then voltage supply.
Old 04-05-2023, 07:56 AM
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Thanks for clarifying. So the battery voltage should have stayed relatively stable during the test? The voltage did recover but it was slow I think. I will check it again after work today.
So I should replace the battery before messing with the IBS?
Can a bad battery cause code 2E8E - BSD, message; intelligent battery sensor (IBS): Missing?
Does anyone have any links to walk me through ISTA for battery registration? I found Dr. Dean's video but it only covers the same amp-hour battery. I was able to get to the registration in ISTA but I was unable to change the Ah.


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