FuzzyWuzzy

DECEMBER 2023 AND ONGOING EDIT/PARTS LIST

Since the OP had broken pictures for whatever reason, I'm going to use this and potentially the second post as a running required/optional parts list in order to get your E61 LS and manual swapped. This will be assuming you're doing this to a left hand North American E61; sorry Euro and Kiwi bros, just flip my directions around or something.

This'll let you bypass the majority of my ramblings and complaining and tangents.

I'll be listing out the parts and will go more in depth with them along with options for most of them. Some, like the engine, is really whatever you want/can find within your budget. Just assume whatever your budget is, it's not enough.

I highly suggest you do one single project on the car at a time. Do not be like me and do multiple things at the same time or the project will simply never end as you'll lose motivation due to set backs, more purchases, life, etc etc. Do your best to keep everything you take off the car until you're absolutely sure you won't need it (minus the cats. Get that money).

Tools Needed/That'll help(Beyond basic tools you should already have owning a BMW)
Engine hoist
Engine stand
(4) Heavy duty jack stands
High power torque wrench (rusty bolts and crank bolt)
LS engine lift plate
Load leveler for the hoist
Die grinder and carbide bits
Flux core welder or whatever welder you have
Valve spring removal tool
Harmonic balancer puller
Piston ring compressor

Parts Required
LS engine of your choosing
Engine accessories of your choosing
Manual transmission of your choosing
Transmission adapter unless T56/TR6060
Standalone ECU of your choosing
Exhaust manifold of your choosing (two options if NA)
Exhaust of your choosing
Driveshaft that fits
Differential adapter
Transmission adapter if needed
ICT E46 LS AC adapter (if doing AC, disregard if not. Line(s) will need bent in order to fit)
E60 RWD front end suspension
E60 RWD front subframe
E60 RWD front brakes
E60 RWD DSC module
E60 RWD steering rack
E60 manual shifter foam padding and cover (good luck!)
E60 clutch pedal assembly (more good luck!)
E60 LS swap mounts and E9x/E6x AWD transmission cross member
T56 transmission mount
Dorman 800-085 fuel line connect and fuel line clamps
T56 manual transmission harness/plug
T56 VSS harness/plug (maybe; will update at a later date)
3/4 coolant hose (8ft)
Newer, shorter style starter
Dayco 72044 - Upper radiator hose; will need trimmed
Redline MT90 fluid - 1 gal
M18 aluminum drain plug washers - grab the Volvo ones as they're cheaper than GM
TBD on remaining parts

RWD/Manual Conversion
If you can come across a RWD and manual E60 for parts/scrap at a good price, grab it immediately. Even better if it has basic power steering and maybe the sportier/thiccc front sway bar. It'll just make everything easier and cheaper on you. If not, I highly suggest you begin hitting up your local yards when you can, utilize eBay or car-part and just start searching and buying.

Engine Options
Any flavor of LS but LS4. Seriously. Want cheapest possible from junkyard or FB? Take your pick of the plethora of LM7/L59 in millions of vehicles. Want an earlier aluminum 5.3? LM4. Newer but spicier heads? L33. Want any 6.0? Go LQ4/9. Want a legit LS? Prepare to spend some money but congrats, you now have a real LS.

While the engine is out, I personally put in new gaskets in various spots, did a cam swap, did rockers, hand ported the "bad" 862 heads instead of the stock 799 heads because higher compression = mo' powuh or something idk. Just do whatever you want to the thing while it's easily accessible on your stand. Gap the rings just a wee bit as you'll inevitably turbo it and it'll save you time. Just find a build out there that you like and can afford and copy it. Not new. They're all the same size and they'll fit the same way. Look up wikipedia if you need a massive breakdown table.

Transmission Options
Originally, I was going to use a Colorado/Canyon AR5. The issue is at the time, there was no shifter relocation kit that would've pushed it to the previously assumed 29" needed. We need 35" from how you'll mount the engine with the LSE9x E60 engine mounts to roughly the center of the shifter hole. This is where the Solstice/Sky AR5 comes in clutch as I believe it's already 35", you just need to move the engine as far back as you can with the engine mounts. As of 12/23, you WILL need to modify the transmission mount to fit the AR5 and likely widen the holes on the crossmember swap mount AND extend where you mount the mount. In one of our conversations, the LSE9x owner mentioned of potentially re-designing the AWD crossmember mount, so I'm basing this all off of the original one that I currently own.

Or skip all this pain and just grab a 4L80.

Standalone ECU
As of right now, you have two options: Holley Terminator X or MaxxxECU. Just determine which one you'd prefer/can afford or find and have at it. For both, there's a company called 'Speedsty Motorsports' that has PnP harnesses for each standalone for the E9x and E6x; they're pricey at $419, so it's up to you. Personally, I'll be trying my hand at tackling the wiring myself thanks to the many videos and PDFs available. Which reminds me, download all the YT videos you can that show off wiring and pinouts for the CAS and DME; it'll help greatly.

Exhaust Manifolds
Passenger side isn't an issue for almost anything; I don't believe anyone's tried LTs so maybe not those. Driver side is the issue thanks to the steering column.LS3 driver manifolds don't fit. Supposedly F-body driver manifolds fit ('98-'02 Trans Am/Camaro). The Patriot Exhaust H8097-B driver side does fit, but it's a cast manifold like stock meaning heavy. For $149 eBay special, "Hugger Manifold Headers Swap Conversion" fit; they come with v-bands, crappy gaskets, and cheap bolts but they fit! For $99, you can get the same thing minus the v-bands. Personally, I prefer the bands.

Exhaust
Dealer's choice. 2.25" or 2.5" or 3". True duals, duals to Y-pipe single. H-pipe. X- Pipe. Cats, resonators, mufflers, etc etc. All based on what you want. If you've decided a size and want to save some money, don't be afraid to google OEM sizes of cars from your local yards and go have fun with a reciprocating saw for a few minutes, it's what I did on two 5th gen v6 Camaros and I saved a couple hundred or so bucks.

Odds 'n' Ends

AC
The E9x guys are going the route of doing Sanden AC conversions, which is more money and everything is put on the driver side. I personally opted to try the ICT E46 bracket to keep it on the passenger side. Turns out, our AC condenser fits the bracket, but the downside is that the thicker line that feeds in to the condenser will need bent somehow; haven't tried the line that comes from the radiator yet.

Coolant hoses and Expansion Tank
LS water pump is 5/8 and 3/4 and the E9x has the same for the heater core hoses; the E6x is actually 3/4 for both hoses you need to swap/connect to. Hopefully as of 12/20, I'll see what I need to do to connect the expansion tank and then update the post like I knew what I was doing the entire time. 12/22/23 Currently trying my hand at re-using the various coolant hoses and plugs the N52 came with to limit the amount of hose one needs to buy. Bought 8ft of 3/4 heater hose from Autozone for $26 and have cut off the steel bands from the N52 hoses to re-use the plugs. Will post pics as newest post.

Fuel
I'm doing a "mild" NA build, so the stock system is fine. I cut the OEM quick connect off the engine bay fuel line that feeds in to the fuel rail, used the aforementioned Dorman quick connect, re-used the braiding, and got some fuel injector clamps. Looks cleaner and is far easier to disconnect vs OEM. Turbo/blow builds, I'd suggest watching many of the swap videos and join the two large BMW LS swap groups on FB.

Will continue to update as time progresses.

FuzzyWuzzy

So the very first thing I did was search for sway bars. Why? I do not know. I just had to have something, so I bought a larger rear sway bar and a front strut tower bar.

I was concerned that the Dinan M5 21mm rear sway wouldn't fit, but it does. I believe at the time I bought it, it was also cheaper than used M5 rear sway bars.



Soon after that, I bought the front strut tower bar from Ultra Racing on eBay. I'll upload a pic later to show off that sweet piece installed.

Going down the list of previous issues I've addressed:

Suspension: Tackled most of it. Have ISC coilovers whose adjustable sway links go to crap really quick; need to already replace those to non-adjustable. Changed out just about every bushing I could get to in my garage; gonna need a press before I can do any other bushings and/or bearings. Also ended up removing everything related to the air suspension.

The adjustable sway links as mentioned. Both sides, all four bushings. Either due to my just not adjusting them properly or they just don't like bumps.



Headlight wires: Likely will buy LCI headlights at some point; not worried about this right now.

Rear defrost: Took a look at the wires last night, expecting to just do this really quick. Quickly realized the amount of black duct tape and zip ties that no, no it will not be a quick fix.Saw just about every wire is exposed. Will be spending a weekend on this later on.

Leaking hydraulic pump for hatch: I ended up buying new struts and completely removed the hydraulic lift gate assembly. This was a massive pain for me and one of the very first things I did as well.

Paint issues: Bought a small bottle of touch up from a dealer on Amazon and some beginner detailing equipment; will tackle this later on.

Lifter tick: I'm used to lifter tick as every LS engine I've come across and owned has it. Not doing this.

Oil pan leak: Was going to address this myself until I realized the amount of work that would be involved in dealing with this. Not doing this.

Seat issues: Bought a new to me middle seat connection so that finally works fine. Honestly not sure how to prevent the 60 split from automatically locking if I fold them down. Will have to research that later on.

Battery: So, had to buy a new alternator. Then had to buy a new battery. Wasn't a fan of the cost or weight of a new AGM, so I opted for a Duralast H9 or H8, I can't remember. I've never had an issue with Duralast batteries and it cut around 20lbs, so I'm happy. I plan on losing more with an Odyssey at a later date.

Fuel cap: I've looked at dozens of BMWs at the few junkyards I go to and every single cord was cut. This morning I bought an updated fuel cap w/ cord for $10 on eBay, so this is done.

Passenger Occupancy: This fucking thing. The quick fix from eBay didn't work. The latest warranty from BMW didn't work and revealed it's caused by one of the modules. Bought an updated used module, just not sure if I'll need to code this or not.

Forgot to list this, but this is just the latest issue to spring up...

Transmission: This is the first auto I've ever owned. It will likely be my last unless I buy a i4 Honda. Gear issues are randomly popping up and it on occasion likes to stay in 1st/2nd from a stop and won't shift up until nearly redline. I clear the error code and it goes away, so not a major concern. Also won't even bother fixing as the moment it goes, I'll be at a dealer looking for a new daily so this will be forced in to project status.


So I have a few goals/ideas for this wagon that I'm going to try and do.

Throw in a bigger engine (cause it's as easy as just throwing one in)
Change the transmission out so I can row my own gears again (Actually a few different options I have in mind)
Dump AWD. I don't care for it and have survived winters in RWD w/ nearly bald summer tires.
Let Evan finish the front subframe swap issues and do this myself
Dump that horrid iDrive for a Nexus 7 tablet I have that I originally bought for an E39 project I was wanting until I came across this wagon. Yes, I know AVIN exists. No, I don't want it.
Lighten the weight up just a tad
Dumb the wagon down as much as possible, hence no iDrive. Likely will figure out a way to dump the auto AC to something the Euro E6x have for their base models
Take another car's 4 piston Brembos and throw them on. Gonna need brackets; almost fits on the front. Bright side is I know a guy that makes brackets, I just need to supply him stock parts. Rotors are roughly the same size as M5, IIRC. I have the planned rotor at home on a shelf.
Lizardskin the hell out of the wagon
Update the interior to LCI. Wasn't a fan at first, but daaaammnnn. I like it. I want it.
Convince one of the Lithuanian eBay sellers to finally ship me the anthracite headliner material so I can finish that conversion. I've already done all pillars, switches, etc, just need that headliner...

And that's about it for now. I'm likely missing a lot.

e61hunter

your pics not loading

FuzzyWuzzy

Late bump.

Pictures are indeed not loading. Here's the latest one I've taken. Nothing's really changed looks wise. I still like the Style 94s and the wagon itself. So far, not much else in my price range compares.




I haven't done much to it since my last post. I think the biggest thing I did was source LCI door panels and swap them in. Freshens up the interior for sure. I've also snagged LCI tails, LM 2 module, and the retrofit kit. I just need to find some affordable LCI xenon AHL headlights at this point and I can do that to keep it as simple as possible.

I've also decided to go ahead and get started on compiling parts for the AWD -> RWD swap now that I've sold my E30 and have a bit more space to get a new DD.

What All Is Needed?
RWD front subframe
RWD front suspension bits to include knuckles/spindles (Make sure you get the correct one as the active steering is different)
RWD front sway bar
RWD driveshaft
RWD transmission
RWD transmission mounts
RWD front shocks (if not going coilovers from overseas)
RWD E61 front springs (from what I've gathered, the sedan front springs will not work. Eibach sells two kits that are typically $160 on Amazon that are solely the fronts. I bought the last one actually in stock)
RWD oil pan
RWD power/hydro steering
RWD steering column
RWD engine mounts
Likely some coding

I think that about covers it...If Evan comes across this thread, he's always more than welcome to fill in missing bits as he's the only one that has publicly done this as well, IIRC.

All in all, if my math is correct and the weights I've found online are correct, the weight savings is somewhere around 150lbs if staying auto. I haven't compared the power steering and column weights yet, but they're likely pretty close. The 0-60 should show an improvement according to some websites: '06 530xi is 6.9s; the '06 530i is 6.1s. Quarter mile should also show an improvement: '06 530xi is 15.5 and the '06 530i is 14.8. Still slow as hell, but it helps.

When that's done and even while it's getting done, I'll also be looking in to getting this thing cleaned up, built, and ready for the wagon...Still needing to source a manual for it that won't cost more than the wagon.

FuzzyWuzzy

Mid April update. The whole Wu Flu is kinda putting a damper on this whole build.

A local junkyard finally got an E60 in; an '07 525i. Thankfully no active steering or dynamic drive. Sadly, no one has pulled the N52 from it yet to make my life a bit easier...

But I was able to snag the steering column ($40) and the front sway bar w/ great stock bushings ($17). I'll need to go back at some point to grab the lower part of the lower joint assembly, but that can always wait. Also have my eyes set on a steering rack already, so that'd honestly leave the driver knuckle, the RWD front suspension bushing bits, and front struts and that should be it.



Also, for the sake of time and money, I'm planning on going straight to the LS swap. If I'm going to go through the trouble of taking everything out to put something new in, I'd rather only do it once.

Which brings me to the 5.3...

Cam bearings were shot. Like, my god were they shot. Same with a lifter tray, three lifters, and three pushrods. I already planned on getting LS7 lifters and trays, but now I'm looking at hardened rods aaaaand another 5.3. Why, you're probably asking? Well...



This is the crankshaft. It shouldn't look like this. With the cost of a new/used crank, I'd be better off finding a whole new 5.3 (aluminum is kinda peaking my interest). That way, I'll at least have some extra stock bits if needed and I can always sell this block for roughly what I paid for it.

And that's it for now. I'll try to remember to update this when more parts come in, new DD is bought, stuff starts getting removed, etc.

hffvdbl

Interested to see where you go with this!

FuzzyWuzzy

Getting a notification reminded me about this post. Thanks!

June 2020 Update

So, the iron 5.3 is shot as previously mentioned. I actually got extremely lucky at the junkyard and was able to find a L33 (aluminum 5.3) for $185. I also almost snagged an LQ4 (iron 6.0) because why the hell not, but I'm still wanting that "lightweight" build. It's only 100lbs, but that's 100lbs I don't need to try and find somewhere else. Maybe I'll rent a truck again and try to grab one a 6.0 for another project if I ever do one again. Who knows. Either way, taking apart the L33 to clean it up a little.

Here's the L33 that I pulled by myself and of course, doing things the hard way, didn't use a saw. Instead I spent nearly all damn day pulling it, mostly with no power tools. Sometimes I'm really dumb.




Junkyards and eBay have been pretty dead in terms of cheap usable parts, but I was still able to find more stuff!

Snagged
Manual shift boot
Manual accelerator
Clutch/Brake assembly
Driver spindle assembly
Steering rack & pinion
LS2 intake manifold and fuel rail
Gen 4 throttle body
Passenger halogen LCI headlight
42lbs fuel injectors
BTR hardened pushrods
Rocker trunnion kit

That should be about it. All I'm missing for the RWD swap is the front shocks and bushings bits. For the LS swap, it's the transmission, wiring harness, accessories and brackets, oil pan, and motor/trans mounts.

Thankfully LSE90 has put out a few videos on their LS swap in to an E90 and they have their own brackets, so I'll possibly end up going that route. Wiring will likely be the same or close enough and I've decided to go with the Holley Terminator X because makes that a lot easier (as it should for a grand...). Transmission will most likely be an AR5 unless I can come across an affordable T56 or TR6060 that wouldn't be 2-3x the cost of the AR5 and conversion bits.

Yes, the LS2 is the "worst" car manifold available, but the Dorman LS2 has been inflated to FAST prices and the LS6 is still too expensive. I have a router and bits, so I'll be porting the **** out of this manifold to make up for it's shortcomings. Unless I get lazy and just don't until a much later date.

What else...this will get a cam and springs. Richard Holdener is planning on releasing some cheap cams so if he can sell it for around $200, I'll likely go with his. Springs will most likely be either LS6 or PAC 1218s unless BTR lets their .660s go for cheap.

I'd like to do a turbo at some point, but I really just wanna get this installed and up n running once the world chills out. Plus I've never messed with a turbo before on anything, so another big learning curve to have fun with.

I'm also tracking the costs of everything and have separated it out between the LS swap, the LCI light swap, aaaand the RWD swap. It's been great trying to see where all the costs are, what's been expensive, cheap, pain in my ass, etc etc. Also tracking what parts I've been able to resell/flip has been beneficial, too.

Current Costs
LS swap - $1,119.01
RWD swap - $207.32
LCI light swap - $510.36

Also reminds me I need/want to get the wagon weighed prior to removing anything else and doing the swap. Just because why not.

That should just about do it until another large buying spree.

FuzzyWuzzy

July 2020 Update

Junkyards are definitely dead now. The closest one I like going to is getting around 10 cars a week it feels like; none of them useful. Not even things I can flip. Bright side is I'm refinancing my house to around 2.26%, so I'll take it.

So while I wait for things to pick back up, here's some weights and dimensions to show I'm still working on this, I guess? Also lets me ramble.

Transmission Weights
AWD GA6HP19Z auto trans - 166.8lbs
RWD GA6HP19Z auto trans - 164.8lbs
RWD GS6-37BZ/DZ dry - 97.3lbs
4L60E and 65E dry - 146lbs
4L80E dry - 178lbs
6L80E dry - 195lbs
T5 dry - 75lbs
AR5 (MA5) wet - 107lbs
T56 dry - 115lbs
TR6060 dry - 146lbs

So finding weights was a pain in the ass, but here's a short list of what I could find that'd fit on an LS. I couldn't find anything for the CD009, sorry. These also may not be exact, but it's what I can find, so take these as rough estimates.

Not only is the weight important, but so are the dimensions! Namely, where the hell the shifter ends up at and that's my current issue.

The preferred transmission when doing an LS swap in to a BMW from what I've seen and read is a T56. They're proven, they fit great, and no adapters needed. The issue with them is cost and availability. They're not cheap and the ones that are need rebuilt or they just don't work (Corvette style).

That's where the AR5 comes in! But the AR5 has it's own issues. It comes in roughly three versions: Colorado/Canyon, Polaris Slingshot, and Solstice/Sky and they all have different shifter locations. The trucks are plentiful and sit around $200-$500. The Solstice/Sky is less plentiful and come in around $625+, and then the Slingshot is painfully rare and the one I've seen available is over $2,000 as of today.

Why is this an issue you may be asking? Well, lets look at the dimensions.

Dimension of Bellhousing to Shifter
Fbody T56 - 29.5"
Colorado/Canyon - 24"
Slingshot - 29"
GTO T56 - 33"
Solstice/Sky - 35"

Thanks to FABbot for the AR5 dimensions! Literally no where else has them from what I could find.

Remember when I said that the T56 is preferred because it sits perfect? Well, so is the Slingshot in this case. From some quick googling this morning, I've found one guy up in Canada that makes remote shifters for the AR5; no idea on price as they're currently showing Out of Stock, BUT that remote shifter pushes it out to 27.5" to 29.5", which would make it perfect. I have a message out to them to get a date and pricing and I'll update this post when I get it and if I remember to. UPDATE: As of the time of this posting, three weeks and $400.

So, now we have the weights and dimensions, what the hell are the costs? Is going the AR5 route actually cheaper than waiting to find a T56? As with everything in life....it depends.

A recently sold Fbody T56 on eBay went for about $2,400, not including a shifter, clutch, flywheel, etc. Freight shipping also not included in that cost. An ACT clutch kit that supports up to 650ftlbs comes in at $468 as of today, a budget LS7 flywheel is around $100. So without shipping, taxes, or a shifter, we're at $2,968. Just a bit pricey and probably worth more than my wagon at this point.

Lets take a look at a Colorado style AR5. These vary wildly in price, but manual 2WD versions go for around $500 shipped on eBay, so that's what I'll go with. FABBot currently has multiple package deals ranging from Stage 1 to 3, but we'll go with the Stage 3 as that has the same clutch I picked for the T56 and that comes out to $1,065; shipping is free and taxes vary, so I'll leave that at that. Also needed is the modified bellhousing. I don't believe the feed and bleed holes are needed as the package package comes with a remote bleeder, but I'll include that cost just incase and that comes out to $105. So the current cost of getting the AR5 to fit on to the LS and set up exactly the same as the T56 above is $1,665. That puts us at $1,303 cheaper than a T56. So now the question is, how expensive is the previously mentioned remote shifter and how nice is it? No idea, but I'm sure it won't cost $1,300.

And that's it for transmissions. A popular go-to 6 speed vs the budget 5 speed. All depends on what you want to do. Personally, I'm cheap and will most likely do the AR5.

As far as the engine goes, I'm pretty much set on the BTR Stage 2 truck cam kit that goes for around $425 for the cam, springs, and seals. Doesn't really lose anything down low and picks up around 60hp and 25tq. I'd go with the Sloppy stage 2, but it loses tq down low for a small amount of extra hp at the top. Also the cam is hovering around $250 and the needed PAC 1218 springs are around $155, not including seals so really no difference in cost.

FuzzyWuzzy

End of July 2020 Update

Allllrighty. Bought a few more things, but other than that nothing much has changed. House refi is finally done, so I can get back to looking for a new DD to start ripping the wagon apart.

What I've Bought Since Last Time
RWD E60 front suspension kit
F-Body harmonic dampener
LS3 tensioner
ICT LS3 water pump spacers
LS3 water pump
04-06 GTO engine brackets (lemme explain this one)

Remaining Crap Needed AFAIK
Transmission
Cam kit
F-Body alternator
Accessory brackets
Engine mounts
Trans mount
ECU/Harness
Exhaust manifolds/headers that fit
Oil pan et al
Front struts

These kinds of swaps really aren't fun when you're a cheap ass like me, but I digress.

Why'd I buy the GTO engine brackets? Well, they were cheap at $50 for both and the LS1/2 in the GTO kinda sorta mount the same way as the N62 in the 550i so I figured hey, it can't hurt to try. I also haven't welded since high school and don't currently own a welder so if this works, I'll happily take it.

I've also began porting the LS2 intake manifold by removing the interior pillars. Trying to use a knock off Dremel is a pain, even worse is that there's nearly no space for me to fit my hand, the rotary, and a light to see what it is that I'm doing. I've had to use a thin metal cutting blade that I got from Lowe's to do the majority of the work so far.

FuzzyWuzzy

End of August 2020 Update

What'd I buy this time?
LS3 dipstick and tube
F-Body alternator
TSP oil pan w/ turbo drain holes (future thinking)
Front Bilstein B4 sport struts
Elgin .660 dual valve springs and valve seals
5th gen Camaro SS exhaust manifolds

Why'd I buy that oil pan instead of an fbody oil pan? More space and already had the holes drilled and tapped for a turbo.
Why'd I buy the valve springs and seals if I wanted the BTR cam kit? They're .660 and were only $50. Seals look brand new. No way could I pass that up. Also trying to nab a 216/220 cam locally for $160-$180 to put my "cam kit" cost at $210-230; about half the cost of the BTR kit for a cam slightly larger. From what I could find, somewhere around +40-50rwhp with the 216/220 cam.
Why'd I buy the Camaro exhaust manifolds? Because they sit pretty darn close to the block and are used in other swaps when space is important. Plus they were only $80. The one other E61 LS swap I know of on Facebook only manage to use the passenger, but I don't know what his engine mount set up is like or anything. If all else fails, flip for double on eBay.

So the RWD part buying spree is done, AFAIK. We'll just have to see what else I'll need once that starts happening. The pre-LCI to LCI light upgrade is still waiting on a cheap as shit driver halogen to pop up at the junkyard or eBay. At some point, I'd like to tear in to them and make them fancy, but that can happen much later. The LS/manual swap part list is slowly shrinking, with the most of the remaining parts being the most expensive; ECU/harness and manual trans.