MTF flush. The seller of the trans drained most of the fluid prior to shipping so there was only a small amount left, nonetheless I got it out and put nearly the full "dry fill" amount of 1.7qt.

Evan

So easy to get all the fluid out when you can tilt and swing the trans as you need.


Royal Purple was the fluid of choice, it seems to have a proven and positive track record amongst late-model MT BMW owners.


Old MTF in shade


Old MTF back-lit

 

I am waiting for the last remaining parts and tools to arrive before diving into my engine rebuild (timing chain tensioner seal and a crank hub counter-hold), I hope to have the rebuild completed next week/weekend!

Evan


Wagon, engine, dog, and transmissions.


Now that the rear end is done, I was able to thuroughly clean and reinstall my M5 brakes.


I am storing some wheels for my buddy (with that ST 6466 E90) garage space is tight so they are stored in my wheel wells! Great looking design! They are from a small company that once was, Forged 1.


Boot and shift knob. These will likely be a temporary solution as I plan to fabricate a gated shifter.


New-to-me oil pan arrived (eBay special) gave it a good cleaning and here is with the others.


I finished cleaning the engine bay, engine wiring harness, and the complete underbody which was either covered in oil from the blown motor of simply dirty from the 105,000 miles of service. EVERYTHING is nice and clean, just the way I like it.



Which brings me to the hurdle I will have to clear for mounting my transmission. My transmission tunnel has a large bulge and unique mounting locations for the 6AT+TC this car previously had and it is radically different than what I need to make the RWD E6X transmission support bolt to the chassis.

This will require a creative solution. I am hoping I can make a hybrid trans support which will utilize my old TC support and those chassis mounts but also reach far enough forward to properly support the MT. The good thing is there isn't a whole lot of weight the support needs to hold, it is more rotational torque from the engine. I will cross this bridge once the engine is in and the trans is mounted but this will arguably be the most "CUSTOM" part of my build...


Ordered some Redline 75w-140 (GL-5 +FM) because it sounds like people have had success with it and for the LSD flush it cost only $48, not $200+ for the oem BMW fluid, yes it is $50+ per 500ml.


Easy flush


Although those large particles seem odd, the condition of the old oil seems pretty good, it looks like it had been flushed as least once during it's previous 70,000 mile life.

 

Great question, it looks like I forgot to include an entire post in this thread from April 24 2016! Whoops.

HERE IS THE POST FROM 4/24

I ended up making a tool to remove the rear differential bushings, part Habor Freight wheel bearing tool, part Home Depot hardware, part 36mm socket I have for the axle nuts. The 36mm socket was a great fit for the front bushings.


Bushings out


Oem vs MFactory Solid (rubber)


Bushings in


M5 axles in


Look how close the outer CV joint is to the wheel carrier!


My test fitting and eye balling suggested fitment would be tight but I didn't think it would be THIS tight! Clearance is literally 1-2mm
If it fits it fits!


LSD, the traction drug


Test fitting pull rods with the modified LSD heatsink.


Looking good


Exhaust should clear no problem


Cleaned up more heat shield



...and my RD Sport sways

 

Mounting points are further back as the support is for the TC and not the trans, see the diagram near the end of post #359.

It was great but I had trouble coding my DSC (laptop/software issues) and never got my DSC/ABS out of an error state.

Evan

 

I don't know of anyone who has done it but I am sure there are many who can complete the AWD-RWD coding, it is pretty basic (assuming your coding laptop works lol). Just remove AWD from the VO, flash the LMA and CAS and default the rest of the modules. I have a ABS/DSC unit from a 535i installed on my hydraulic pump.

Most of the E9X guys just disconnect the front driveshaft and pull a fuse and deal with all the shortcomings of not legitimately configuring the car for the new orientation.


Yes, trans is bolted to the engine which helps support the weight. Engine mounts are directly under the engine so once the trans is bolted up that weight shifts back but it still isn't a huge load for the trans support to hold. My MT only weights 97lbs or something like that, like I said it is more torque and twist that static weight.

Evan

 

While the motor was out I investigated swapping my non-M DSC pump for an E60 M5, nearly everything else on the car is M5 so it made sense. It looks like the M5 DSC has an additional input "accelerator" sensor and I didn't want to bother with integrating that but what I really wanted to do is get the ugly ABS/DSC pump, module, hardl lines, and wiring out of the engine bay

The non-M location behind the passenger headlight is a HUGE eyesore and the M5 location behind the driver wheel liner make a lot more sense is it is location directly below the master cylinder. removing unnecessary runs of lines and improve aesthetics? My kind of mod.

After some research it looks like all I would need is the M5 hydraulic lines, the brackets for the pump, and to extend my wiring harness. I will probably create a DIY of the full process for the E6X guys but here are some pics of the process thus far. I am trying to track down the remaining hydro lines I need as I don't feel like paying "new" prices. The brackets are on the way via $31 and eBay, and the wiring harness is complete after purchasing some wiring and spending an annoying amount of time soldering all the connections.

OEM location


So ugly


Draining fluid


Overdue


Front hard lines removed


Old mounts and ugly stuff


Grdinging


Much better


Oem wiring harness


Split


New conduit


Crazy eyes


Solder solder solder solder


1/2 done


Solder solder solder solder


New routing




Motor rebuild and assembled.



In she go



Up next is the 6MT and figuring out how I am going to solve the issue with the rear support.

 

Your pics don't work

 

Google shut down Picasa and they have some other picture archive/viewer thing. We will see if others have issues as well. I will look into getting it resolved.

Thanks Google

 

Great pictures and great idea to move the DSC.

 

Engine is in, connected, oiled up, and coolant bled. Once my ********* get back from receiving their ceramic coating I can install them with my O2s and give the engine a crank. Long time coming, just under 5 months.

Below are some pictorial updates. They may not work in certain browsers or on your phone, I am sorry, Google flipped Picasa in favor for a "better" image storage system that doesn't display on all platforms, if anyone has info on how to resolve this, I am all ears. Thanks Google.

Enjoy,
Evan


Not all the Tredwear decals made it through the incident when my engine blew.


Found this in my rear tire. I might just leave it and roast the rear tires so I can upgrade from 275 to 285 now that I don't have to worry about F-R rolling diameters and keeping the AWD system happy. I could use some more meat out back. A 285 on the 19x11 rear should match the stretch of the 245 on the 9.5 up front. Symmetry is beauty.


Stay organized


"DIY"


Serpentine belt installed


TB still had some carnage in it


After


Charge pipe and BOV cleaned up


My wagon had an additional heat exchanger for both ATF and coolant. I took it apart to investigate the internals. Ports with green gaskets are for ATF the other (and another port located on the backside of the aluminum part) were for coolant.


The bottom coolant port had a spring tensioned valve but it doesn't appear to move and consequently have a thermostat function, not sure what the deal is.


To delete the ATF connections I cut off the hardlines.


Assembled some hardware to block off the ATF ports


ATF function deleted but coolant still flows through the additional (and very small) heat exchanger, cooling is always welcomed.


Old ATF cooling lines


Decided it was a good time to paint my intercooler so it hides behind my bumper; keep it subtle, keep it classy


The rear bracket on my power steering pump is AWD specific and I now have a RWD oil pan so I needed to "make it work."


I bored out the hole in the bracket about 5-6mm to the left to compensate for the offset, I them reused an old M10 bolt from a rear axle and used a stainless steel nut as my 10mm spacer. MAcGyver mod.


My 10mm spacer


VTT turbo outlets and intercooler installed


Up pipe, charge pipe, and manifold installed


Oil filled, coolant filled and bled; vac tanks and solenoids installed.