E61 Remote Key Problem
07-16-2011, 10:42 AM
#21
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I also have the issue where none of my remotes work. But, I can use the key without problem. My dealership told me that the diagnostics show a break in the wiring harness and they want $3k to repair. They also said both sides should be done as a preventative measure and that will cost $4,400. Does anyone have any other suggestions? Interestingly enough, my service receipt says that break is in trunk hatch, but service advisor says break is further down and interior, seats and head panel will need to be removed to locate the exact spot of the break. Thus, most of the cost is for the labor to do this. Am I being taken for a ride? Or, is this common? Any suggestions or feedback would be greatly appreciated. It's a 2006 xit with 78k miles. It's my first BMW so I have a lot to learn about their quirks. Thank you!
07-16-2011, 11:25 AM
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I also have the issue where none of my remotes work. But, I can use the key without problem. My dealership told me that the diagnostics show a break in the wiring harness and they want $3k to repair. They also said both sides should be done as a preventative measure and that will cost $4,400. Does anyone have any other suggestions? Interestingly enough, my service receipt says that break is in trunk hatch, but service advisor says break is further down and interior, seats and head panel will need to be removed to locate the exact spot of the break. Thus, most of the cost is for the labor to do this. Am I being taken for a ride? Or, is this common? Any suggestions or feedback would be greatly appreciated. It's a 2006 xit with 78k miles. It's my first BMW so I have a lot to learn about their quirks. Thank you!
If you search these forums, you should find a some DIY write-up to repair the breaks.
Good luck and keep us posted.
07-20-2011, 08:04 AM
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I really hate to say it but it sounds about right. My 2006 530xiT with 73K miles was fortunately under CPO warranty. The dealer found 4 breaks in the harness at both sides of the tailgate hinge as well as a shorted out body module, perhaps from the breaks. The headliner had to come down to replace the harness and I do know they were also into the doors as well. It took almost 3 weeks and I was given a loaner.
If you search these forums, you should find a some DIY write-up to repair the breaks.
Good luck and keep us posted.
If you search these forums, you should find a some DIY write-up to repair the breaks.
Good luck and keep us posted.
07-20-2011, 05:48 PM
#24
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My Ride: 2010 535 xi - M Sport Pkg & other goodies
Thank you for the input. Maybe they are right. Upon talking to the service manager, and not my service advisor, they have decided they can repair the break and re-quoted me an adjusted amount of $1,100. Maybe I should take them up on it, but I am seriously considering trading back to my dealer for a lease on a new 335xi just to eliminate the out of warranty/out of pocket costs and get a new car worry-free. Thanks for the feedback.
01-19-2012, 02:24 PM
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I am so happy that I found this thread. I am having the same exact issues with my 06 530xiT right now. Keys dont work, rear hatch would pop open.
My indy mechanic had my car for 3 days and they had to replace the following:
61 11 9 231 820 and 821 - wiring harness
61 11 9 241 656 and 657 - wiring reapir kit
They are the wiring harnesses for both sides of the rear glass. My latch stopped working and the wiring harnesses were broken. It is very labor intensive. Parts were only $360.00 USD but labor was almost $900.00 dollars.
It still did not fix the issue with the keys though. Both of mine just stopped working one day. I have checked my keys with Autozone and they appear to be transmitting without issue.
I am going to be tearing open the rear spoiler to get the diversity antenna this weekend to see if it is corroded and to see if the small styrofoam blocks are there to keep the water from getting to it per the SIB 66 06 08 that is out there.
Thanks
rich
My indy mechanic had my car for 3 days and they had to replace the following:
61 11 9 231 820 and 821 - wiring harness
61 11 9 241 656 and 657 - wiring reapir kit
They are the wiring harnesses for both sides of the rear glass. My latch stopped working and the wiring harnesses were broken. It is very labor intensive. Parts were only $360.00 USD but labor was almost $900.00 dollars.
It still did not fix the issue with the keys though. Both of mine just stopped working one day. I have checked my keys with Autozone and they appear to be transmitting without issue.
I am going to be tearing open the rear spoiler to get the diversity antenna this weekend to see if it is corroded and to see if the small styrofoam blocks are there to keep the water from getting to it per the SIB 66 06 08 that is out there.
Thanks
rich
11-01-2012, 09:43 AM
#26
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Which wiring harness and wire for the remote control problem
I see from this excellent thread that several of you have been able to correct the problem of your key buttons not controlling your locks by fixing broken wires in the tailgate wiring harness.
I just got my car back from my indy mechanic. He said he looked at the Diversity Module and it looked OK. He pulled both wiring harnesses adjacent to the passenger-side tailgate hinge back into the car (thru the speaker hole). He removed the tape around both harnesses, found several broken wires and fixed them ($488). All of this fixed the fact that my right backup lamp hadn't been working. But it did not fix the remote locking problem. Bummer.
My mechanic talked to a local BMW dealer who said it's probably a broken wire somewhere forward of the speaker hole. And they would fix it for $700.
From what I have read in this forum, I am not confident that there is a break in a wire somewhere near the front of the car. No one has ever reported that here. With all the problems that have been reported in these wires near the rear hinges, it seems most likely that's where the problem lies. I wonder if there was an internal break in a wire that was not visible from the outside and my mechanic just missed it.
So here's my question. For those of you who have solved this problem, which wiring harness houses the wire that might be responsible--near the driver side or passenger side hinge (driver on the left here in US)? And since there are two harnesses adjacent to each hinge, is it the harness nearer the center of the car or toward the side? Second, what color was the wire that you feel was the culprit?
With your more specific advice, I might be inclined to tackle this job myself.
I just got my car back from my indy mechanic. He said he looked at the Diversity Module and it looked OK. He pulled both wiring harnesses adjacent to the passenger-side tailgate hinge back into the car (thru the speaker hole). He removed the tape around both harnesses, found several broken wires and fixed them ($488). All of this fixed the fact that my right backup lamp hadn't been working. But it did not fix the remote locking problem. Bummer.
My mechanic talked to a local BMW dealer who said it's probably a broken wire somewhere forward of the speaker hole. And they would fix it for $700.
From what I have read in this forum, I am not confident that there is a break in a wire somewhere near the front of the car. No one has ever reported that here. With all the problems that have been reported in these wires near the rear hinges, it seems most likely that's where the problem lies. I wonder if there was an internal break in a wire that was not visible from the outside and my mechanic just missed it.
So here's my question. For those of you who have solved this problem, which wiring harness houses the wire that might be responsible--near the driver side or passenger side hinge (driver on the left here in US)? And since there are two harnesses adjacent to each hinge, is it the harness nearer the center of the car or toward the side? Second, what color was the wire that you feel was the culprit?
With your more specific advice, I might be inclined to tackle this job myself.
11-14-2012, 04:19 PM
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In follow-up to my message above, I went to a second indy mechanic (Boston Motor Werks in Belmont MA). They are former BMW shop mechanics and have all the BMW diagnostics. They said the battery was failing and that could be contributing to the remote locking problem. But they also thought the remote locking issue was primarily due to a faulty antenna diversity module. They replaced both the battery and the diversity module. Now the radio and locks work great.
I've seen posts here where the remote locking problem was in the diversity module. But my mechanic was the first person I've heard say that a low battery could contribute. Since they changed the battery and the diversity module at the same time, I can't say for whether one or both parts were the solution. But thought I'd mention the battery here in case it is helpful for any of you.
I've seen posts here where the remote locking problem was in the diversity module. But my mechanic was the first person I've heard say that a low battery could contribute. Since they changed the battery and the diversity module at the same time, I can't say for whether one or both parts were the solution. But thought I'd mention the battery here in case it is helpful for any of you.
11-28-2012, 02:32 AM
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In follow-up to my message above, I went to a second indy mechanic (Boston Motor Werks in Belmont MA). They are former BMW shop mechanics and have all the BMW diagnostics. They said the battery was failing and that could be contributing to the remote locking problem. But they also thought the remote locking issue was primarily due to a faulty antenna diversity module. They replaced both the battery and the diversity module. Now the radio and locks work great.
I've seen posts here where the remote locking problem was in the diversity module. But my mechanic was the first person I've heard say that a low battery could contribute. Since they changed the battery and the diversity module at the same time, I can't say for whether one or both parts were the solution. But thought I'd mention the battery here in case it is helpful for any of you.
I've seen posts here where the remote locking problem was in the diversity module. But my mechanic was the first person I've heard say that a low battery could contribute. Since they changed the battery and the diversity module at the same time, I can't say for whether one or both parts were the solution. But thought I'd mention the battery here in case it is helpful for any of you.
11-28-2012, 07:31 AM
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Dear Larserso,
I had never noticed any battery problems. The mechanic said he found several "low voltage faults" when he checked what I assume is some computer-generated list of errors that the car's diagnostics identify. And it was the original battery, about 6 years old, so I thought it was worthwhile to replace if could have been part of the key problem.
But it wasn't. Replacing the battery and the diversity antenna only solved my remote locking problem for about two days. Then the system failed again. My car is back in the shop right now for another try at finding the problem. I'll post another message when I know more.
I had never noticed any battery problems. The mechanic said he found several "low voltage faults" when he checked what I assume is some computer-generated list of errors that the car's diagnostics identify. And it was the original battery, about 6 years old, so I thought it was worthwhile to replace if could have been part of the key problem.
But it wasn't. Replacing the battery and the diversity antenna only solved my remote locking problem for about two days. Then the system failed again. My car is back in the shop right now for another try at finding the problem. I'll post another message when I know more.