This battery discharge is driving me mad!
#11
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From: HK (N.T), UK (Surrey)
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Originally Posted by fiona' post='1066915' date='Dec 3 2009, 11:05 AM
Keith, I sympathise. I am getting so annoyed with this.
One thing I did notice yesterday was that although the car was locked, the red alarm indicator wasn't flashing on the rear view mirror. I had to unlock the car, open a door, shut it and dead lock the car again. It had been like this for about 3 hours. Could this be causing the car not to go into sleep mode and draining the battery? It does this occasionally.
Not a good week for car ownership. I had a screw in as good as new rear tyre on the 5 series that wasn't repairable, my other car is getting work done that may reach 4 figures and my other car is going into the dealer on Monday for a week to get some warranty issues fixed.
One thing I did notice yesterday was that although the car was locked, the red alarm indicator wasn't flashing on the rear view mirror. I had to unlock the car, open a door, shut it and dead lock the car again. It had been like this for about 3 hours. Could this be causing the car not to go into sleep mode and draining the battery? It does this occasionally.
Not a good week for car ownership. I had a screw in as good as new rear tyre on the 5 series that wasn't repairable, my other car is getting work done that may reach 4 figures and my other car is going into the dealer on Monday for a week to get some warranty issues fixed.
But slightly different in my case, when i locked my car, the red alarm indicator will flash at higher frequency than the normal (all doors were closed properly)
then the alarm will have a mind of his own, it will set off after 2 to 5 minutes or sometime it won't, which is quite embarrassing when you parked on the street meters.
This problem has encountered with me for 2 years now, BMW suggests the positive battery cable gone wrong, so i replaced them, but as you can guess, the problem still there!
#12
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From: HK (N.T), UK (Surrey)
My Ride: BMW E60 530i , Silver with leather Air Con iDrive 17" Breyton Rims with Dunlop Sp Sport tyres (M-Tech Bodykit and rims WANTED)
Alfa Romeo 147 TS1.6 , Black with Air Con 17" Multi Spoke alloys with Bridgestone RE040 tyres
Toyota MR-S 1.8 VVTI , Lagoon Blue with Red leather Air Con 15" standard alloys with Toyo tyres
Toyota Celica 1.8 VVTI, Lagoon Blue, Air Con, 16" Standard alloys with Kuhmo KU31, EBC Green Stuff
Originally Posted by Anzafin' post='1066928' date='Dec 3 2009, 11:53 AM
Ok.
That 20 feet could be close enough for car detecting the key and not getting to sleep, but that 10 floors wouldn't!
Hmmm... Could it be the possibly malfunctioned IBS and the car doesn't charge the battery properly? I know you said the battery is ok, but still...
That 20 feet could be close enough for car detecting the key and not getting to sleep, but that 10 floors wouldn't!
Hmmm... Could it be the possibly malfunctioned IBS and the car doesn't charge the battery properly? I know you said the battery is ok, but still...
#13
I had same issue. My dealer ask BMW NA Tech about the problem. They sugguested the dealer to do a software update. After I got my car back, the iDrive screen had a little different color display (newer version?). Have not had the issue since (~10 months).
If the car is still under warranty, call BMW NA and open up a ticket with them. They will have the dealer contact you.
Good luck.
Kevin
If the car is still under warranty, call BMW NA and open up a ticket with them. They will have the dealer contact you.
Good luck.
Kevin
#14
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From: So. Cal (SFV)
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not sure if you guys missed this thread regarding another members battery drain and solution...
https://5series.net/forums/index.php...opic=90823&hl=
https://5series.net/forums/index.php...opic=90823&hl=
#15
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Hi, I don't know if it helps but I had such problems since the beginning. After several arguments with the dealer they managed to replace the battery on warranty and did something which they claimed they didn't and it works as it should. So there is a fault and probably your dealer should know how to fix it because it's been a flaw of E60s'.
#16
Originally Posted by fiona' post='1066902' date='Dec 3 2009, 04:28 AM
Just had the AA out to my '05 535d E61 as it wouldn't start this morning. I have had intermittent "increased battery discharge" since I owned the car in 2007 but it seems to have got worse lately and is really struggling to start after standing for 12 hours or more. AA chap managed to get it going with a slave battery.
I've been leaving it on trickle charge when I can and the AA confirms the battery is in very good condition. Something is causing it to drain when it isn't being used.
When it was under warranty it had 2 or 3 trips to the dealer who tried to diagnose a fault. There was the usual reloading of software, making sure everything went to sleep and assurances it was fixed but a week or so later it was back again.
I have a young baby and can't be without the car in order for it to be stripped apart only for it to happen again. To be honest, I don't really want to spend money with the dealer promising to fix it again with no success.
I've tried taking the CD changer carousel out, making sure nothing is left on auto, removing the Sat nav DVD, etc when it isn't in use. If I sit in the car when the engine is off I can still hear something come to life and start whirring in the dash a good while after the electrics are off.
Any ideas what else to check? I have the electronic tailgate and I've heard this can sometimes cause problems.
This has happened after leaving it for 8 hours after a 350 mile drive so I don't think it is down to the driving profile. The car regularly does 100 mile trips a day.
TIA.
I've been leaving it on trickle charge when I can and the AA confirms the battery is in very good condition. Something is causing it to drain when it isn't being used.
When it was under warranty it had 2 or 3 trips to the dealer who tried to diagnose a fault. There was the usual reloading of software, making sure everything went to sleep and assurances it was fixed but a week or so later it was back again.
I have a young baby and can't be without the car in order for it to be stripped apart only for it to happen again. To be honest, I don't really want to spend money with the dealer promising to fix it again with no success.
I've tried taking the CD changer carousel out, making sure nothing is left on auto, removing the Sat nav DVD, etc when it isn't in use. If I sit in the car when the engine is off I can still hear something come to life and start whirring in the dash a good while after the electrics are off.
Any ideas what else to check? I have the electronic tailgate and I've heard this can sometimes cause problems.
This has happened after leaving it for 8 hours after a 350 mile drive so I don't think it is down to the driving profile. The car regularly does 100 mile trips a day.
TIA.
It is almost always caused by a sticky switch or module. The switch looks like it is off, ie' light goes out on the dash / switch, but actually it is stuck on and contines to drain the battery. Most common is rear heated screen or some other high drain component, like heated mirrors. GM cars in the UK are notorious for this fault. Garages really stuggle to find the fault, but it keeps my auto electrician friend in mortgage payments !!!
I would pay a good auto electrician to check it out, I can guarantee it is something simple and they will know right-away what the problem is (it is probably common). The bad news is it might cost you 100 Euros
#17
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Originally Posted by higher' post='1082542' date='Dec 31 2009, 06:27 PM
I had something similar and mentioned this to a very good auto electrician friend. He said it's a common auto electric fault - that's the good news.
It is almost always caused by a sticky switch or module. The switch looks like it is off, ie' light goes out on the dash / switch, but actually it is stuck on and contines to drain the battery. Most common is rear heated screen or some other high drain component, like heated mirrors. GM cars in the UK are notorious for this fault. Garages really stuggle to find the fault, but it keeps my auto electrician friend in mortgage payments !!!
I would pay a good auto electrician to check it out, I can guarantee it is something simple and they will know right-away what the problem is (it is probably common). The bad news is it might cost you 100 Euros
It is almost always caused by a sticky switch or module. The switch looks like it is off, ie' light goes out on the dash / switch, but actually it is stuck on and contines to drain the battery. Most common is rear heated screen or some other high drain component, like heated mirrors. GM cars in the UK are notorious for this fault. Garages really stuggle to find the fault, but it keeps my auto electrician friend in mortgage payments !!!
I would pay a good auto electrician to check it out, I can guarantee it is something simple and they will know right-away what the problem is (it is probably common). The bad news is it might cost you 100 Euros
#18
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Well it is booked in next Monday at our local specialist. He says he has 8 E61s booked in this week with the same problem.
It is now on trickle charge whenever I am at home. When I was away over Christmas I needed to jump start it twice. I just can't trust it and I don't want to get stranded with a baby when I'm out and about.
When I was packing to go away for Christmas I opened the automatic boot maybe 10 times with the engine off and this was enough to drain the battery so much I had to get a jump. I'm not even getting an increased battery discharge warning now, I just can't get it started without a jump.
When I had the AA chap out he said my battery was in great condition (may not now after the jump starts so I'll get that checked).
Will update this thread when I get it back from the garage.
Thanks for your comments and suggestions.
It is now on trickle charge whenever I am at home. When I was away over Christmas I needed to jump start it twice. I just can't trust it and I don't want to get stranded with a baby when I'm out and about.
When I was packing to go away for Christmas I opened the automatic boot maybe 10 times with the engine off and this was enough to drain the battery so much I had to get a jump. I'm not even getting an increased battery discharge warning now, I just can't get it started without a jump.
When I had the AA chap out he said my battery was in great condition (may not now after the jump starts so I'll get that checked).
Will update this thread when I get it back from the garage.
Thanks for your comments and suggestions.
#19
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Originally Posted by fiona' post='1084641' date='Jan 5 2010, 04:02 PM
When I was packing to go away for Christmas I opened the automatic boot maybe 10 times with the engine off and this was enough to drain the battery so much I had to get a jump.
It's not just the trunk light that's draining the battery -- it's that the entire car "wakes up" when the trunk is opened and then is stays awake for a period of time (16 minutes or more) before going back to sleep. While the car is awake, there are numerous drains on the battery. If you are constantly accessing the trunk (or opening a door) to get something out of the car without starting it and allowing the battery to be charged up again, this constant waking/sleeping/waking/sleeping cycle will trigger the car to shut down non-critical functions, etc.
#20
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While the car is asleep, it is supposed to have less than 80ma of current drain. More than 80ma will trigger the battery discharge error message. While the car is awake, the battery discharge is closer to about 1.5 amps ( with all devises off ). Our cars are light sleepers, if woken, it takes 30 minutes to go to sleep.
The common causes reported by members have been the:
1)IBS- intelligent battery sensor: located at the negative terminal
2)MPM- micro power module: located in the spare tire well near the PDC
3)door/trunk/hood latch switches
4)TCU- telematics control unit: located left rear wheel fender well in trunk
Keep in mind that as of 09/05 or so BMW incorporated the door modules and the MPM into the body module (KGM). The original body module for pre 09/05 cars is the SGM. Both located behind glovebox.
Check post #44 for the technical description of sleep mode: E60 power management/ sleep order
is it just me, or is it a bit ironic that the number one cause of battery drain in our cars is the battery drain sensor?
The common causes reported by members have been the:
1)IBS- intelligent battery sensor: located at the negative terminal
2)MPM- micro power module: located in the spare tire well near the PDC
3)door/trunk/hood latch switches
4)TCU- telematics control unit: located left rear wheel fender well in trunk
Keep in mind that as of 09/05 or so BMW incorporated the door modules and the MPM into the body module (KGM). The original body module for pre 09/05 cars is the SGM. Both located behind glovebox.
Check post #44 for the technical description of sleep mode: E60 power management/ sleep order
is it just me, or is it a bit ironic that the number one cause of battery drain in our cars is the battery drain sensor?