Removing wheel spacers after 3 years
05-03-2009, 06:35 AM
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I have given up trying to find the old email strings.
I need to turn in my leased car, and today, I am changing back my old wheels.
My spacers will likely be rusted to the wheel hub.
How do I remove them????
What is the prevailing thought??
I know all about using anti seize to put them on, but we are far past that point...
I am sure that spraying some stuff in the gaps will help, but I recall that some here used other methods.
I need to turn in my leased car, and today, I am changing back my old wheels.
My spacers will likely be rusted to the wheel hub.
How do I remove them????
What is the prevailing thought??
I know all about using anti seize to put them on, but we are far past that point...
I am sure that spraying some stuff in the gaps will help, but I recall that some here used other methods.
05-03-2009, 07:12 AM
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Originally Posted by monacobmw' post='866683' date='May 3 2009, 10:35 AM
I have given up trying to find the old email strings.
I need to turn in my leased car, and today, I am changing back my old wheels.
My spacers will likely be rusted to the wheel hub.
How do I remove them????
What is the prevailing thought??
I know all about using anti seize to put them on, but we are far past that point...
I am sure that spraying some stuff in the gaps will help, but I recall that some here used other methods.
I need to turn in my leased car, and today, I am changing back my old wheels.
My spacers will likely be rusted to the wheel hub.
How do I remove them????
What is the prevailing thought??
I know all about using anti seize to put them on, but we are far past that point...
I am sure that spraying some stuff in the gaps will help, but I recall that some here used other methods.
After having gone through this once I grease the hub and spacer, a lot, twice a year when swapping back and forth between summer and winter tires.
Good luck... this could suck... a lot
Let us know how it goes
05-03-2009, 10:44 AM
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My Ride: 2008 Alpine White 550i Sport, Cream Beige Interior, 6-Sp Manual - retired 9/2011
If you don't care if they are destroyed, you can use a hammer with forked end. Wedge the forked end on the inner aspect of the opening and start pulling like you are pulling out a nail. You might have to really force it off. 
05-03-2009, 10:47 AM
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My Ride: 2007 530i. Purchased 6/28/07. Titanium Silver Metallic, Black Dakota Leather, Dark Poplar Trim, Steptronic, Premium Package, Cold Weather Package, Bluetooth, Adaptive Control Xenons. 10/30/07 Added OEM 124s with 245/40/18 & 275/35/18 Michelin Pilot Sport A/S tires. Installed red Cal Covers� from BavAuto. 11/21/07 Added OEM all-weather floor mats (for winter, carpet in summer) and coat rack. 6/26/08 installed M5-style rear spoiler. 6/30/08 put on red reflectors. 8/22/08 Euro turn signal stickers applied. 3/20/09 Installed Shadowline Trim. 3/27/09 Added Matte Black Kidney Grilles from Trinity. 4/03/09 Installed Bimmian Shadow Matte Black 530i Badges. 4/04/09 Installed LED license plate lights from Trinity. 5/01/09 Installed Brabus Interior LED Kit and White Angel Eyes. 5/02/09 Put in Brabus 6K Fogs. 5/14/09 Removed charcoal filter. 5/15/09 Installed light smoke LED side marker lamps from Trinity. 5/21/09 Sprint Booster. 6/12/09 Painted exhaust tips flat black. 6/13/09 Pulled red Cal Covers and painted calipers low gloss black. 6/27/09 RPI Ram Air Scoop from Trinity. 8/15/09 Installed Brabus's silver invisibulbs front and rear. 9/24/09 Installed R-Dash license plate LEDs from Brabaus (John).
Originally Posted by mhs525' post='866697' date='May 3 2009, 10:12 AM
Good luck... this could suck... a lot
05-03-2009, 11:42 AM
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The solution is:
The blow torch.
I sprayed liquid wrench in the space between the spacer and the hub (there was no space). I hit the area with a rubber mallet.
I heated up the aluminum for about 5 minutes. I saw the rust bubbling from the inside out.
Then, I put a putty knife (sharpened on one side) in the space between the spacer and hub and used the rubber mallet to create some extra space.
The space opened up pretty easily.
Then, I put a screwdriver into the small open space to wedge some extra space.
Not very hard. Just took some patience, and the blow torch was the secret.
It sucked only a little, not a lot.
The blow torch.
I sprayed liquid wrench in the space between the spacer and the hub (there was no space). I hit the area with a rubber mallet.
I heated up the aluminum for about 5 minutes. I saw the rust bubbling from the inside out.
Then, I put a putty knife (sharpened on one side) in the space between the spacer and hub and used the rubber mallet to create some extra space.
The space opened up pretty easily.
Then, I put a screwdriver into the small open space to wedge some extra space.
Not very hard. Just took some patience, and the blow torch was the secret.
It sucked only a little, not a lot.
05-03-2009, 01:02 PM
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My Ride: 2011.5 Alpine White E90 M3 | Black Novillo Leather | Carbon Fiber Leather Trim | ZCP | ZP2 | M-DCT | Navigation | Moonroof | 6FL Mods: TMS 12.5mm spacers all around l Hawk HPS Brake Pads l OEM M3 Edition Grills l Paint Matched Side Gills l Key Hole D
05-03-2009, 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by myfootsmells' post='867214' date='May 3 2009, 09:57 PM
Probably could've used a plasma cutter too.
If you are inclined enough to be doing this yourself, surely you can operate a blow torch.
It was the secret, and I would have been working on the spacer for hours without it.
05-03-2009, 06:19 PM
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Oh you mean one of those pencil torches w/ butane?
Originally Posted by monacobmw' post='867229' date='May 3 2009, 07:14 PM
Just $15 at the hardware store for the torch.
If you are inclined enough to be doing this yourself, surely you can operate a blow torch.
It was the secret, and I would have been working on the spacer for hours without it.
If you are inclined enough to be doing this yourself, surely you can operate a blow torch.
It was the secret, and I would have been working on the spacer for hours without it.