Removed Replica #166 wheels
10-01-2006, 02:07 PM
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I have tried everything to eliminate the problems (vibration and brake problems) with my 19" staggerred #166 replica wheels for my 530i: Hubcentric rings (plastic and metal), balancing on a Hunter Machine, etc.
I have significantly reduced the vibration noise, but it is still there. In addition, there is a braking squeal at very slow speeds (1 mph) which is a little different than the groaning.
I am convinced that the wheels are probably defective. I actually do not think that the hubcentric fit is the sole problem. The OEM wheels fit flush with the hub, whereas the replicas seems to bolt on strangely.
Once I put the OEM 17" wheels back on the car, I went back to a smooth drive, and the braking squeal went away. I could not remove the 20mm spacers in the back as some corrosion had locked them in place. Does anyone have any ideas on how to remove H&R spacers that are stuck? I tried a putty knife to pry them off, but the knife could not wedge its way in.
I am back to the drawing board. I will probably buy some OEM #166s. I love the style. Maybe I will go from 275s to 285s.
I paid $1600 for the whole set up with tires. I have spent another $400 on sensors and balancing. I have spent hours really getting to know these tires and the hub area of the car.
What do you all think that I should do about the place that sold me the wheels? These are clearly defective and not fit for their intended purpose. Since I bought the wheels, the wheel place (Lake Shore Wheels) has reduced the price on the replicas by $200 for the set of 19" staggerred (I think that they know that there is a problem). Any ideas? Do you think that I am out of luck (buyer beware), or I have a legitimate beef to request a refund (or a partial one)?
This is a sad day for me.
I can't believe that I have spent 2 months losing the nice enjoyment of my car for these types of issues. I love to fix things, so it was good getting to know how to remove my wheels and replace them in less than 1 hour.
Please be careful with replica wheels!!!! If anyone sees a set of used M5 wheels floating around, send them to me.
Best,
I have significantly reduced the vibration noise, but it is still there. In addition, there is a braking squeal at very slow speeds (1 mph) which is a little different than the groaning.
I am convinced that the wheels are probably defective. I actually do not think that the hubcentric fit is the sole problem. The OEM wheels fit flush with the hub, whereas the replicas seems to bolt on strangely.
Once I put the OEM 17" wheels back on the car, I went back to a smooth drive, and the braking squeal went away. I could not remove the 20mm spacers in the back as some corrosion had locked them in place. Does anyone have any ideas on how to remove H&R spacers that are stuck? I tried a putty knife to pry them off, but the knife could not wedge its way in.
I am back to the drawing board. I will probably buy some OEM #166s. I love the style. Maybe I will go from 275s to 285s.
I paid $1600 for the whole set up with tires. I have spent another $400 on sensors and balancing. I have spent hours really getting to know these tires and the hub area of the car.
What do you all think that I should do about the place that sold me the wheels? These are clearly defective and not fit for their intended purpose. Since I bought the wheels, the wheel place (Lake Shore Wheels) has reduced the price on the replicas by $200 for the set of 19" staggerred (I think that they know that there is a problem). Any ideas? Do you think that I am out of luck (buyer beware), or I have a legitimate beef to request a refund (or a partial one)?
This is a sad day for me.
I can't believe that I have spent 2 months losing the nice enjoyment of my car for these types of issues. I love to fix things, so it was good getting to know how to remove my wheels and replace them in less than 1 hour. Please be careful with replica wheels!!!! If anyone sees a set of used M5 wheels floating around, send them to me.
Best,
10-01-2006, 02:20 PM
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My Ride: Gone: 2004 525i Jet Black, Built 03/04, Premium Package, Black Dakota Leather, Halogen to Euro Spec Bi-Xenons Retrofit, Dark Poplar Wood Trim, Steptronic Breyton Spirit Reps 20x9F 20x10R - Nitto NT555 245/35/20F-275/30/20R, M5 Front Bumper, H&R Sport Springs, Chrome Grills, 20% Tint, Euro Reflectors, Debadged, Aux Input, CIP v19.x
from time to time u can find some e60 m5 wheels over at the m5board.
for example:
http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=81171
for example:
http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=81171
10-01-2006, 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by monacobmw' post='340660' date='Oct 2 2006, 06:07 AM
I have tried everything to eliminate the problems (vibration and brake problems) with my 19" staggerred #166 replica wheels for my 530i: Hubcentric rings (plastic and metal), balancing on a Hunter Machine, etc.
I have significantly reduced the vibration noise, but it is still there. In addition, there is a braking squeal at very slow speeds (1 mph) which is a little different than the groaning.
I am convinced that the wheels are probably defective. I actually do not think that the hubcentric fit is the sole problem. The OEM wheels fit flush with the hub, whereas the replicas seems to bolt on strangely.
Once I put the OEM 17" wheels back on the car, I went back to a smooth drive, and the braking squeal went away. I could not remove the 20mm spacers in the back as some corrosion had locked them in place. Does anyone have any ideas on how to remove H&R spacers that are stuck? I tried a putty knife to pry them off, but the knife could not wedge its way in.
I am back to the drawing board. I will probably buy some OEM #166s. I love the style. Maybe I will go from 275s to 285s.
I paid $1600 for the whole set up with tires. I have spent another $400 on sensors and balancing. I have spent hours really getting to know these tires and the hub area of the car.
What do you all think that I should do about the place that sold me the wheels? These are clearly defective and not fit for their intended purpose. Since I bought the wheels, the wheel place (Lake Shore Wheels) has reduced the price on the replicas by $200 for the set of 19" staggerred (I think that they know that there is a problem). Any ideas? Do you think that I am out of luck (buyer beware), or I have a legitimate beef to request a refund (or a partial one)?
This is a sad day for me. I can't believe that I have spent 2 months losing the nice enjoyment of my car for these types of issues. I love to fix things, so it was good getting to know how to remove my wheels and replace them in less than 1 hour.
Please be careful with replica wheels!!!! If anyone sees a set of used M5 wheels floating around, send them to me.
Best,
I have significantly reduced the vibration noise, but it is still there. In addition, there is a braking squeal at very slow speeds (1 mph) which is a little different than the groaning.
I am convinced that the wheels are probably defective. I actually do not think that the hubcentric fit is the sole problem. The OEM wheels fit flush with the hub, whereas the replicas seems to bolt on strangely.
Once I put the OEM 17" wheels back on the car, I went back to a smooth drive, and the braking squeal went away. I could not remove the 20mm spacers in the back as some corrosion had locked them in place. Does anyone have any ideas on how to remove H&R spacers that are stuck? I tried a putty knife to pry them off, but the knife could not wedge its way in.
I am back to the drawing board. I will probably buy some OEM #166s. I love the style. Maybe I will go from 275s to 285s.
I paid $1600 for the whole set up with tires. I have spent another $400 on sensors and balancing. I have spent hours really getting to know these tires and the hub area of the car.
What do you all think that I should do about the place that sold me the wheels? These are clearly defective and not fit for their intended purpose. Since I bought the wheels, the wheel place (Lake Shore Wheels) has reduced the price on the replicas by $200 for the set of 19" staggerred (I think that they know that there is a problem). Any ideas? Do you think that I am out of luck (buyer beware), or I have a legitimate beef to request a refund (or a partial one)?
This is a sad day for me.
I can't believe that I have spent 2 months losing the nice enjoyment of my car for these types of issues. I love to fix things, so it was good getting to know how to remove my wheels and replace them in less than 1 hour. Please be careful with replica wheels!!!! If anyone sees a set of used M5 wheels floating around, send them to me.
Best,
Well I think you should take them back and get the shop to sort it out. If they don`t then remember to pst on the internet to every 1 not to get stuff from the place. :thumbsdown:
It also sounds like your shop is a conarts, cutting $200 is alot!!! :thumbsdown:
about the H&R spacers, you can try and put some wd40 and use and hammer and a wood black to nock it loss thants what I saw when I change my tyres in the tyre shop.
I get the 19" AC type 4 replice and they are 100% OK.
well good luck taking them back
10-01-2006, 08:01 PM
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Sorry to hear that. SOmetimes is better to pay a bit more for the real thing than replicas. I have had that issue in the past before , no more and no vibrations here with 20s.
Plac eyour rims back in ebay and good luck for the new owner
no vibrations here with 20s.Plac eyour rims back in ebay and good luck for the new owner
10-02-2006, 07:22 AM
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Hmmm...
I can only say that perhaps some of you can now better recognize the situation that I often remind you all of, that is, you just don't have any idea how much aggravation, time and money that a lousy set of wheels and tires can bring. Again, moral of the story is to buy the quality stuff from someone you know or has the right references, and pay for it in a way that gives you some recourse. You just don't understand this until you've gone through it a few times...
And BTW, my guess is that you own the other wheels and tires. You'll be lucky to get any help there, after two months, and that much mounting, balancing and riding.
I can only say that perhaps some of you can now better recognize the situation that I often remind you all of, that is, you just don't have any idea how much aggravation, time and money that a lousy set of wheels and tires can bring. Again, moral of the story is to buy the quality stuff from someone you know or has the right references, and pay for it in a way that gives you some recourse. You just don't understand this until you've gone through it a few times...
And BTW, my guess is that you own the other wheels and tires. You'll be lucky to get any help there, after two months, and that much mounting, balancing and riding.
10-02-2006, 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by monacobmw' post='340660' date='Oct 1 2006, 06:07 PM
I have tried everything to eliminate the problems (vibration and brake problems) with my 19" staggerred #166 replica wheels for my 530i: Hubcentric rings (plastic and metal), balancing on a Hunter Machine, etc.
I have significantly reduced the vibration noise, but it is still there. In addition, there is a braking squeal at very slow speeds (1 mph) which is a little different than the groaning.
I am convinced that the wheels are probably defective. I actually do not think that the hubcentric fit is the sole problem. The OEM wheels fit flush with the hub, whereas the replicas seems to bolt on strangely.
Once I put the OEM 17" wheels back on the car, I went back to a smooth drive, and the braking squeal went away. I could not remove the 20mm spacers in the back as some corrosion had locked them in place. Does anyone have any ideas on how to remove H&R spacers that are stuck? I tried a putty knife to pry them off, but the knife could not wedge its way in.
I am back to the drawing board. I will probably buy some OEM #166s. I love the style. Maybe I will go from 275s to 285s.
I paid $1600 for the whole set up with tires. I have spent another $400 on sensors and balancing. I have spent hours really getting to know these tires and the hub area of the car.
What do you all think that I should do about the place that sold me the wheels? These are clearly defective and not fit for their intended purpose. Since I bought the wheels, the wheel place (Lake Shore Wheels) has reduced the price on the replicas by $200 for the set of 19" staggerred (I think that they know that there is a problem). Any ideas? Do you think that I am out of luck (buyer beware), or I have a legitimate beef to request a refund (or a partial one)?
This is a sad day for me. I can't believe that I have spent 2 months losing the nice enjoyment of my car for these types of issues. I love to fix things, so it was good getting to know how to remove my wheels and replace them in less than 1 hour.
Please be careful with replica wheels!!!! If anyone sees a set of used M5 wheels floating around, send them to me.
Best,
I have significantly reduced the vibration noise, but it is still there. In addition, there is a braking squeal at very slow speeds (1 mph) which is a little different than the groaning.
I am convinced that the wheels are probably defective. I actually do not think that the hubcentric fit is the sole problem. The OEM wheels fit flush with the hub, whereas the replicas seems to bolt on strangely.
Once I put the OEM 17" wheels back on the car, I went back to a smooth drive, and the braking squeal went away. I could not remove the 20mm spacers in the back as some corrosion had locked them in place. Does anyone have any ideas on how to remove H&R spacers that are stuck? I tried a putty knife to pry them off, but the knife could not wedge its way in.
I am back to the drawing board. I will probably buy some OEM #166s. I love the style. Maybe I will go from 275s to 285s.
I paid $1600 for the whole set up with tires. I have spent another $400 on sensors and balancing. I have spent hours really getting to know these tires and the hub area of the car.
What do you all think that I should do about the place that sold me the wheels? These are clearly defective and not fit for their intended purpose. Since I bought the wheels, the wheel place (Lake Shore Wheels) has reduced the price on the replicas by $200 for the set of 19" staggerred (I think that they know that there is a problem). Any ideas? Do you think that I am out of luck (buyer beware), or I have a legitimate beef to request a refund (or a partial one)?
This is a sad day for me.
I can't believe that I have spent 2 months losing the nice enjoyment of my car for these types of issues. I love to fix things, so it was good getting to know how to remove my wheels and replace them in less than 1 hour. Please be careful with replica wheels!!!! If anyone sees a set of used M5 wheels floating around, send them to me.
Best,
Sorry to hear that. That really sucks. However, just know that you probably saved a lot of E60 members a lot of time and money, as I'm sure not many of them will buy from Lake Shore Wheel and Tires.
Good luck with your new wheels and post pix when you get them.
10-02-2006, 01:00 PM
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Thanks for the heads up on replica wheels. I will forever stay away.....
10-02-2006, 02:01 PM
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There are tens of thousands of cars on the road with aftermaket wheels without any problems. It appears Mono does not have any experience with auto repairs (just my observation and not a dig). Sometime you have to take a pause and smell the roses. The physics regarding wheel vibrations is not complicated. Here is something to try in order to solve your problem. (forces at work are weight and runout)'
Take some chalk and fasten it onto something about a foot high that has some weight i.e. 1 gal paint can.
jack up one wheel at a time and place the chalk about a 1/4 inch ( you may have to move it closer) in front of the tire. Rotate the tire and see where the chalk hits. That will show you if there is any radial runout (off center) or a bulge in the tire.
next place the chalk on the side of the tire and rotate. That will show you it the side of the tire has a bulge or if there is any lateral runout.
next place the chalk at the edge of the wheel and rotate. That will indicate if you have a bent rim or if the wheel is not mounted properly. i.e. something between the wheel and surface of the rotor. perhaps some casting left over.
At the rear wheel, leave the transmission in neutral so that you only have to jackup one wheel at a time.
This will keep you off the streets for a while and perhaps solve your problem LOL. I hope. Good luck.
Take some chalk and fasten it onto something about a foot high that has some weight i.e. 1 gal paint can.
jack up one wheel at a time and place the chalk about a 1/4 inch ( you may have to move it closer) in front of the tire. Rotate the tire and see where the chalk hits. That will show you if there is any radial runout (off center) or a bulge in the tire.
next place the chalk on the side of the tire and rotate. That will show you it the side of the tire has a bulge or if there is any lateral runout.
next place the chalk at the edge of the wheel and rotate. That will indicate if you have a bent rim or if the wheel is not mounted properly. i.e. something between the wheel and surface of the rotor. perhaps some casting left over.
At the rear wheel, leave the transmission in neutral so that you only have to jackup one wheel at a time.
This will keep you off the streets for a while and perhaps solve your problem LOL. I hope. Good luck.
10-02-2006, 03:12 PM
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Originally Posted by zen' post='340967' date='Oct 2 2006, 06:01 PM
There are tens of thousands of cars on the road with aftermaket wheels without any problems. It appears Mono does not have any experience with auto repairs (just my observation and not a dig). Sometime you have to take a pause and smell the roses. The physics regarding wheel vibrations is not complicated. Here is something to try in order to solve your problem. (forces at work are weight and runout)'
Take some chalk and fasten it onto something about a foot high that has some weight i.e. 1 gal paint can.
jack up one wheel at a time and place the chalk about a 1/4 inch ( you may have to move it closer) in front of the tire. Rotate the tire and see where the chalk hits. That will show you if there is any radial runout (off center) or a bulge in the tire.
next place the chalk on the side of the tire and rotate. That will show you it the side of the tire has a bulge or if there is any lateral runout.
next place the chalk at the edge of the wheel and rotate. That will indicate if you have a bent rim or if the wheel is not mounted properly. i.e. something between the wheel and surface of the rotor. perhaps some casting left over.
At the rear wheel, leave the transmission in neutral so that you only have to jackup one wheel at a time.
This will keep you off the streets for a while and perhaps solve your problem LOL. I hope. Good luck.
Take some chalk and fasten it onto something about a foot high that has some weight i.e. 1 gal paint can.
jack up one wheel at a time and place the chalk about a 1/4 inch ( you may have to move it closer) in front of the tire. Rotate the tire and see where the chalk hits. That will show you if there is any radial runout (off center) or a bulge in the tire.
next place the chalk on the side of the tire and rotate. That will show you it the side of the tire has a bulge or if there is any lateral runout.
next place the chalk at the edge of the wheel and rotate. That will indicate if you have a bent rim or if the wheel is not mounted properly. i.e. something between the wheel and surface of the rotor. perhaps some casting left over.
At the rear wheel, leave the transmission in neutral so that you only have to jackup one wheel at a time.
This will keep you off the streets for a while and perhaps solve your problem LOL. I hope. Good luck.
If there is a problem with the RIMs, such as a bent rim or defective product, there is not much I can do to fix it, right?
You are right, I am not a mechanic. I am just a person trying to figure out why my wheels vibrate, and I was trying to methodically rule out many causes. Many wheels do work fine, but some that are made in China may not be made to specs. that work well. If the replicas were truly replicas, they would match the real OEMs in every respect. Mine did not. What more could I do?