Installed Subwoofer?
#71
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My Ride: 2004 525i Jet Black on Grey Interior---
Tint: Sides 20% Rear Windshield 5% Front Windshield 35%
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Body: Hamann Full Front Spoiler, Rieger Side Skirts, Rieger Rear Apron, AC Schnitzer Trunk Wing
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Audio: 2 12" Kicker L7's with a Rockford Fosgate 1501bd Amp With Custom Trunk Enclosure
SOON TO COME:
-M5 Mirrors
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-Hamann 6 Series Front Spliter Molded
-Hamann Roof Wing
-Full Custom Sound System with TV's
I have 2 Kicker L7's with a Rockford Fosgate 1500dB amp
#73
Originally Posted by Lenk' date='Oct 5 2004, 07:14 PM
Here is the specific information you need to properly add asubwoofer using the wires directly from wiring harness going into the amp in the trunk on the left side of the trunk. Do not use the back speakers as the sound as crossed over from the M-ASK or CCC computer and therefore you are not really getting true sub frequencies
? 1. Unplug the harness
?
? 2. Here are the wires you need going from the amp to the subwoofer:
? ? ? Left sub + RT/WS? ? Right sub? - BL/BR
? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? -? BR/GE? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? +BL/RT? ? these wires a 1.75 mm thick
? 3. Use Crimp Connectors and attach speak wires to these wires. The can be purchased from Roadio and avoid you from cutting these wires.
As a bonus here is the all important ever so useful BMW wire color code chart to decipher the above colors
? 1. Unplug the harness
?
? 2. Here are the wires you need going from the amp to the subwoofer:
? ? ? Left sub + RT/WS? ? Right sub? - BL/BR
? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? -? BR/GE? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? +BL/RT? ? these wires a 1.75 mm thick
? 3. Use Crimp Connectors and attach speak wires to these wires. The can be purchased from Roadio and avoid you from cutting these wires.
As a bonus here is the all important ever so useful BMW wire color code chart to decipher the above colors
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#74
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My Ride: '05 545i Sport Package 6-speed, cold weather package, premium sound
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Originally Posted by Hamann5' date='Dec 8 2004, 05:24 PM
I have 2 Kicker L7's with a Rockford Fosgate 1500dB amp?
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Now that must really pound! I've got just 1 L7 and that thing hits damn hard...I had to lower the gain to about 25% on the amp because it was overpowering the other speakers...Yours must sound incredible!!
I'm sure you would agree that one great thing that I've found with Rockford amps is that they always give very conservative/low power ratings on their amps, yet when I get the test certificate inside the amp's box, I see that when they bench tested the amp, it actually puts out anywhere from 20%-50% higher power than advertised. Unfortunately, the one time I didn't look at the certificate I ended up blowing a 12" L7(not an easy sub to kill) within the first 10 minutes of use because the amp's actual power was much more than the rated power - apparently too much for the sub to handle.
#75
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My Ride: 2004 525i Jet Black on Grey Interior---
Tint: Sides 20% Rear Windshield 5% Front Windshield 35%
Wheels: Zenetti Five's 20" by 8.5(front) 20" by 10(rear)--
Tires: Pirelli Asimmetrico 245/35/20(front) 285/30/20(rear)--
Body: Hamann Full Front Spoiler, Rieger Side Skirts, Rieger Rear Apron, AC Schnitzer Trunk Wing
Interior: AC Schnitzer Pedal Set and E-Break
Springs: H&R Sport Springs--
Audio: 2 12" Kicker L7's with a Rockford Fosgate 1501bd Amp With Custom Trunk Enclosure
SOON TO COME:
-M5 Mirrors
-M5 Trunk Finsher
-Brembo GT Big Brake Kit
-Hamann 6 Series Front Spliter Molded
-Hamann Roof Wing
-Full Custom Sound System with TV's
Ya man you can't see in in the picture but I had a custom install where the guy cut out a 6 inch hole on the back deck so all the bass can pass through the car... yeah man my amp suposed to be 1500 watts but they tested it to be 1650... ya mine hits pretty hard definetly worth the money... not sure though I love bass I may even change it up and get the 15's
#76
My $0.02 on the addition of subs to the Logic7 system.
I installed two Dynaudio MW180 subs in the rear deck (infinite baffle) last week - like the M5 bass option in the E39. I'm driving them with an Alpine MRD-M301 amp.
They sound fantastic - these are really nice subs. Here's the problem:
With the Logic7 system, you get four tweeters, seven 4" midranges and two 8" subs. All put together, it sounds really nice, but is missing low-end punch. However, when I added the two subs in the rear, they clearly sound like they're in the rear of the car - obvious, I know, but with the L7 system turned on, the image is shifted way forward, into the windshield. So now, there's an image up front and bass in the back and it sounds REALLY separated.
Plus, by emphasizing the low-end bass, the mid-bass simply disappeared. So, it sounds really bright up front and really strong at the low end, but there's this huge gap in the midrange. It basically sounds like " a bunch of 4" speakers and two really loud subs".
Turning off L7 makes it sound really bad, as the image drops to the doors.
To make things worse, I think the subs in the L7 system are crossed over at 100 - 120 Hz at least. All the high-end of the bass range is coming from the L7 subs. Well, sending the full sub signal to the new subs in back sends way too much mid-bass back there, making the separation issue worse. I crossed them over at 80Hz, which sounds the best, but again, the mid-bass coming from up front is lost.
I'm fairly sure the only solution would be to install larger drivers in the front doors, if at all possible. But, it's likely to end badly, as the L7 amp's only putting out 40 watts per channel, and that's not going to be enough to drive some decent 6.5s.
I think I'll be taking them out, as the system just sounds way too tweaked with them in.
I installed two Dynaudio MW180 subs in the rear deck (infinite baffle) last week - like the M5 bass option in the E39. I'm driving them with an Alpine MRD-M301 amp.
They sound fantastic - these are really nice subs. Here's the problem:
With the Logic7 system, you get four tweeters, seven 4" midranges and two 8" subs. All put together, it sounds really nice, but is missing low-end punch. However, when I added the two subs in the rear, they clearly sound like they're in the rear of the car - obvious, I know, but with the L7 system turned on, the image is shifted way forward, into the windshield. So now, there's an image up front and bass in the back and it sounds REALLY separated.
Plus, by emphasizing the low-end bass, the mid-bass simply disappeared. So, it sounds really bright up front and really strong at the low end, but there's this huge gap in the midrange. It basically sounds like " a bunch of 4" speakers and two really loud subs".
Turning off L7 makes it sound really bad, as the image drops to the doors.
To make things worse, I think the subs in the L7 system are crossed over at 100 - 120 Hz at least. All the high-end of the bass range is coming from the L7 subs. Well, sending the full sub signal to the new subs in back sends way too much mid-bass back there, making the separation issue worse. I crossed them over at 80Hz, which sounds the best, but again, the mid-bass coming from up front is lost.
I'm fairly sure the only solution would be to install larger drivers in the front doors, if at all possible. But, it's likely to end badly, as the L7 amp's only putting out 40 watts per channel, and that's not going to be enough to drive some decent 6.5s.
I think I'll be taking them out, as the system just sounds way too tweaked with them in.
#77
Originally Posted by sj3' date='Jul 12 2004, 09:26 PM
The actual speaker inside a "subwoofer" is in fact just a woofer.? Speakers come in woofer, tweeter, and midrange.? I think the thing that makes a speaker a subwoofer is that the crossover is designed so that frequencies higher than a certain hz figure are not reproduced by the speaker...not because it can't, but because the signal is fltered so that the speaker doesn't see it.? To me, a speaker designed to filter out all frequencies above say 100hz or 120hz is indeed a subwoofer.? Unless our guest_Rob has the crossover design spec, saying that it's not a subwoofer but rather a midrange or woofer is baseless.? Subs start their rolloff at different points depending on their design, price, size, etc, but they are called a sub because they won't reproduce frequencies above a certain figure, again different between different subs, but they all share that design 'feature'.? Thanks.
Sam
Sam
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#78
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Originally Posted by mclc26' date='Dec 5 2004, 11:39 PM
For those of you that really like your bass to have a true presence, I have found that the following combination works incredible in my 545i - a Rockford Fosgate T10001bd amp pushing 750 watts into a kicker 12" solobaric L7...It feels tremendously hard hitting and with the remote bass control knob for the amp, you can adjust the degree of bass you want at that moment(from a nice low-key tight bass to a teeth rattling boom). I don't have the split rear seat, yet this sub hits extremely hard.? I had the same setup installed in my 540, yet in the 545 it sounds tremendously better.?
It was installed thanks to the all the info provided on this board(Lenk )...Here are some pics before the amp was mounted and wires tucked away:
Attachment 3843
Attachment 3844
Attachment 3845
Attachment 3846
It was installed thanks to the all the info provided on this board(Lenk )...Here are some pics before the amp was mounted and wires tucked away:
Attachment 3843
Attachment 3844
Attachment 3845
Attachment 3846
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#79
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My Ride: 2005 545i (SMG)
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You should not run aftermarket speakers with the Logic 7 amplifiers. This is a recipe for disaster. You're likely to damage a high-quality speaker when it is run with a low quality amp (which the Logic 7 amp is).
It is a shame you didn't have better luck. I know from experience the quality of Dynaudio. My last car stereo featured Dynaudio speakers, and I loved them.
But, unfortunately you've now got a serious quality gap between the front of your car and the rear.... and you're hearing it clearly. Short of upgrading the entire system, I don't know how you're going to overcome the separation caused by the Logic 7 processors.
It is a shame you didn't have better luck. I know from experience the quality of Dynaudio. My last car stereo featured Dynaudio speakers, and I loved them.
But, unfortunately you've now got a serious quality gap between the front of your car and the rear.... and you're hearing it clearly. Short of upgrading the entire system, I don't know how you're going to overcome the separation caused by the Logic 7 processors.
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I?m trying to install an amp and sub to the factory system on my 2004 530i. It has the standard sound system, with a very small subwoofer amp. I?m planning on tapping in to those sub frequencies coming out of the stock subwoofer amp, using a line out converter (speaker level to RCA converter) to my JL 2501 amp which will drive a JL 12w3 sub. I need some opinions on what is what on this stock wiring harness coming out of the small subwoofer amp on the standard U.S. audio system. This is the small silver box on the left side of the trunk. I?m pretty sure I know which ones are the speaker wires, I just don?t know what the positive and negative wires for each one are, or how to test the polarity. I?m open to suggestions. Thanks.
Factory wire harness:
Going from left to right. SMALL BLACK WIRES-input signal from head unit (MASK computer). FIRST SUBWOOFER PAIR-brown/white stripe, red/blue stripe. SECOND SUBWOOFER PAIR-brown/yellow stripe, red/white stripe. AMP REMOTE TURN-ON-small white wire. POWER-thick red wire. GROUND-thick brown wire.
Factory wire harness:
Going from left to right. SMALL BLACK WIRES-input signal from head unit (MASK computer). FIRST SUBWOOFER PAIR-brown/white stripe, red/blue stripe. SECOND SUBWOOFER PAIR-brown/yellow stripe, red/white stripe. AMP REMOTE TURN-ON-small white wire. POWER-thick red wire. GROUND-thick brown wire.