Hubcentric Ring Fun--Pictures and Story
09-23-2006, 04:41 PM
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Guys, I was scheduled to have my car lowered today with my new H&R springs and the place cancelled on me because the service tech did not show up.
I was planning on having them put new hubcentric rings on my car to get rid of the vibration with the Replica #166 wheels.
Instead, I went to Walmart and bought a Hydralic Jack and torque wrench and decided to play with the wheels myself.
First, I changed the metal rings to plastic. I ordered new metal and plastic rings from TireRack and some additional plastic rings from a place on ebay. The metal rings fit the best because they were 74.1 mm outside. The plastic rings were both 74.0 mm. That being said, I decided to use the plastic rings from the ebay store because I wanted to try plastic for a change. I figured I could always go back to metal when I lower my car.
It made a huge difference to tighten the lug bolts by hand while rotating the tire. Unfortunately, I could only rotate the front tires. I think that the back tires are locked when the car is in park, and I did not want the car to fall of the jack by putting the car in neutral. Does anyone know why the rear wheels are locked and how to safely unlock them while putting the car on a jack?
Anyway, most of the vibration was from the steering wheel (indicative of a front wheel problem), and rotating the tire while hand tightening the lugs with a torque wrench made a huge difference.
I have attached pictures of the rear tire being done, as well as the rings. You really have to discount all of the hubcentric ring stories you hear for other cars. These rings are so thin for the 5-series that you really need to be careful with them. They bend very easily, so if you are not careful when putting the tire on, you are likely to get vibration. Most people who work in wheel shops (the service techs) do not really care about taking their time, and they cause the vibration by using the impact wrench (which can also scratch your wheels). In addition, these 5-series have rusty hubs (there was even rust on my OEM wheels when I took them off). There will probably be a recall on them in the future.
Your comments are welcomed, and I would love to hear if anyone knows how to safely free the rear wheel while on a jack so I can rotate it while tightening the lug nuts (I am not sure that I would trust using simple blocks on the floor).
I hope you like the pictures below. They show the black ring on my H&R 20mm (modified from earlier wrong posting of 30mm) spacer, as well as the other two types of rings that I purchased from TireRack, and it gives you a chance to see what this is all about.
I was planning on having them put new hubcentric rings on my car to get rid of the vibration with the Replica #166 wheels.
Instead, I went to Walmart and bought a Hydralic Jack and torque wrench and decided to play with the wheels myself.
First, I changed the metal rings to plastic. I ordered new metal and plastic rings from TireRack and some additional plastic rings from a place on ebay. The metal rings fit the best because they were 74.1 mm outside. The plastic rings were both 74.0 mm. That being said, I decided to use the plastic rings from the ebay store because I wanted to try plastic for a change. I figured I could always go back to metal when I lower my car.
It made a huge difference to tighten the lug bolts by hand while rotating the tire. Unfortunately, I could only rotate the front tires. I think that the back tires are locked when the car is in park, and I did not want the car to fall of the jack by putting the car in neutral. Does anyone know why the rear wheels are locked and how to safely unlock them while putting the car on a jack?
Anyway, most of the vibration was from the steering wheel (indicative of a front wheel problem), and rotating the tire while hand tightening the lugs with a torque wrench made a huge difference.
I have attached pictures of the rear tire being done, as well as the rings. You really have to discount all of the hubcentric ring stories you hear for other cars. These rings are so thin for the 5-series that you really need to be careful with them. They bend very easily, so if you are not careful when putting the tire on, you are likely to get vibration. Most people who work in wheel shops (the service techs) do not really care about taking their time, and they cause the vibration by using the impact wrench (which can also scratch your wheels). In addition, these 5-series have rusty hubs (there was even rust on my OEM wheels when I took them off). There will probably be a recall on them in the future.
Your comments are welcomed, and I would love to hear if anyone knows how to safely free the rear wheel while on a jack so I can rotate it while tightening the lug nuts (I am not sure that I would trust using simple blocks on the floor).
I hope you like the pictures below. They show the black ring on my H&R 20mm (modified from earlier wrong posting of 30mm) spacer, as well as the other two types of rings that I purchased from TireRack, and it gives you a chance to see what this is all about.
09-23-2006, 05:18 PM
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If you want to be able to spin the rear wheels, you'd have to put the car in neutral and leave the handbrake off. After that, it's likely that both rear wheels would have to be off the ground to be able to spin either one of them.
Obviously, you'd want to chock the front wheels if you were doing this (or lower the rear of the car onto a pair of jack stands.) (Technically, you're supposed to always chock the wheel diagonally opposite the wheel your lifting anyway but most people don't...)
Obviously, you'd want to chock the front wheels if you were doing this (or lower the rear of the car onto a pair of jack stands.) (Technically, you're supposed to always chock the wheel diagonally opposite the wheel your lifting anyway but most people don't...)
09-24-2006, 04:58 AM
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Originally Posted by monacobmw' post='337902' date='Sep 23 2006, 07:41 PM
Guys, I was scheduled to have my car lowered today with my new H&R springs and the place cancelled on me because the service tech did not show up.
I was planning on having them put new hubcentric rings on my car to get rid of the vibration with the Replica #166 wheels.
Instead, I went to Walmart and bought a Hydralic Jack and torque wrench and decided to play with the wheels myself.
First, I changed the metal rings to plastic. I ordered new metal and plastic rings from TireRack and some additional plastic rings from a place on ebay. The metal rings fit the best because they were 74.1 mm outside. The plastic rings were both 74.0 mm. That being said, I decided to use the plastic rings from the ebay store because I wanted to try plastic for a change. I figured I could always go back to metal when I lower my car.
It made a huge difference to tighten the lug bolts by hand while rotating the tire. Unfortunately, I could only rotate the front tires. I think that the back tires are locked when the car is in park, and I did not want the car to fall of the jack by putting the car in neutral. Does anyone know why the rear wheels are locked and how to safely unlock them while putting the car on a jack?
Anyway, most of the vibration was from the steering wheel (indicative of a front wheel problem), and rotating the tire while hand tightening the lugs with a torque wrench made a huge difference.
I have attached pictures of the rear tire being done, as well as the rings. You really have to discount all of the hubcentric ring stories you hear for other cars. These rings are so thin for the 5-series that you really need to be careful with them. They bend very easily, so if you are not careful when putting the tire on, you are likely to get vibration. Most people who work in wheel shops (the service techs) do not really care about taking their time, and they cause the vibration by using the impact wrench (which can also scratch your wheels). In addition, these 5-series have rusty hubs (there was even rust on my OEM wheels when I took them off). There will probably be a recall on them in the future.
Your comments are welcomed, and I would love to hear if anyone knows how to safely free the rear wheel while on a jack so I can rotate it while tightening the lug nuts (I am not sure that I would trust using simple blocks on the floor).
I hope you like the pictures below. They show the black ring on my H&R 30mm spacer (as well as the other two types of rings that I purchased from TireRack), and it gives you a chance to see what this is all about.
Attachment 24149Attachment 24150
I was planning on having them put new hubcentric rings on my car to get rid of the vibration with the Replica #166 wheels.
Instead, I went to Walmart and bought a Hydralic Jack and torque wrench and decided to play with the wheels myself.
First, I changed the metal rings to plastic. I ordered new metal and plastic rings from TireRack and some additional plastic rings from a place on ebay. The metal rings fit the best because they were 74.1 mm outside. The plastic rings were both 74.0 mm. That being said, I decided to use the plastic rings from the ebay store because I wanted to try plastic for a change. I figured I could always go back to metal when I lower my car.
It made a huge difference to tighten the lug bolts by hand while rotating the tire. Unfortunately, I could only rotate the front tires. I think that the back tires are locked when the car is in park, and I did not want the car to fall of the jack by putting the car in neutral. Does anyone know why the rear wheels are locked and how to safely unlock them while putting the car on a jack?
Anyway, most of the vibration was from the steering wheel (indicative of a front wheel problem), and rotating the tire while hand tightening the lugs with a torque wrench made a huge difference.
I have attached pictures of the rear tire being done, as well as the rings. You really have to discount all of the hubcentric ring stories you hear for other cars. These rings are so thin for the 5-series that you really need to be careful with them. They bend very easily, so if you are not careful when putting the tire on, you are likely to get vibration. Most people who work in wheel shops (the service techs) do not really care about taking their time, and they cause the vibration by using the impact wrench (which can also scratch your wheels). In addition, these 5-series have rusty hubs (there was even rust on my OEM wheels when I took them off). There will probably be a recall on them in the future.
Your comments are welcomed, and I would love to hear if anyone knows how to safely free the rear wheel while on a jack so I can rotate it while tightening the lug nuts (I am not sure that I would trust using simple blocks on the floor).
I hope you like the pictures below. They show the black ring on my H&R 30mm spacer (as well as the other two types of rings that I purchased from TireRack), and it gives you a chance to see what this is all about.
Attachment 24149Attachment 24150
09-24-2006, 05:31 AM
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The rear wheels are locked because when the transmission is in P(ark) there is a damn big steel pin locking it!!! Or possibly because the handbrake is pulled.
To rotate them, leave transmission in N(eutral), release handbrake, and put chocks or a wedge bricks under the front wheels before lifting the car on the jack.
To rotate them, leave transmission in N(eutral), release handbrake, and put chocks or a wedge bricks under the front wheels before lifting the car on the jack.
09-24-2006, 07:12 AM
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Originally Posted by dlevi67' post='338052' date='Sep 24 2006, 09:31 AM
The rear wheels are locked because when the transmission is in P(ark) there is a damn big steel pin locking it!!! Or possibly because the handbrake is pulled.
To rotate them, leave transmission in N(eutral), release handbrake, and put chocks or a wedge bricks under the front wheels before lifting the car on the jack.
To rotate them, leave transmission in N(eutral), release handbrake, and put chocks or a wedge bricks under the front wheels before lifting the car on the jack.
I sat there thinking about what would happen if the jack fell off while a tire was missing (and I was possibly in a bad position near the car). Probably $2000 of damage and maybe some serious injuries. When I look at the chocks (e.g., the ones sold at a auto store), they look like small pieces of plastic to do a good job.
When I tighten the bolts, I will be using a little bit of pressure which would move an unstable car.
My question is whether this is practically safe rather than conceptually safe. Have you guys done this?
I love the concept of being able to switch out my 17" OEM tires (for my 19" 166s) in less than an hour for long trips where the quality of ride is very important. I would go to a dealer if they did not always mess up my car with the retightening.
Best,
09-24-2006, 07:27 AM
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I'd not risk working with above condition. Go to any independent shop at some gas station and ask them do it for you while watching them. You cannot see whatever technician do if you drop your car at dealer, and you won't be sure if they do the work the way you like.
I see in the other thread that you plan to change to real OEM 166, is that because this wheel is not good enough? Where is it made?
Good luck
I see in the other thread that you plan to change to real OEM 166, is that because this wheel is not good enough? Where is it made?
Good luck
09-24-2006, 08:04 AM
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Originally Posted by my530i' post='338070' date='Sep 24 2006, 11:27 AM
I'd not risk working with above condition. Go to any independent shop at some gas station and ask them do it for you while watching them. You cannot see whatever technician do if you drop your car at dealer, and you won't be sure if they do the work the way you like.
I see in the other thread that you plan to change to real OEM 166, is that because this wheel is not good enough? Where is it made?
Good luck
I see in the other thread that you plan to change to real OEM 166, is that because this wheel is not good enough? Where is it made?
Good luck
This is a leased car, and with $1600 out of pocket on the replica wheels and tires, I am not sure though that I want to dish out another $1600 for the new wheels, even if I can recyle the tires (I am also lowering the car).
If I have no vibration, I will stay with the replicas. I am fully convinced now after my experiment that most of the complaints about vibration in the replicas are "hubcentric" related. Any issues that have to do with balancing can be handled with the hunter 9700 machine and proper weights.
09-24-2006, 10:59 AM
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Originally Posted by monacobmw' post='338085' date='Sep 24 2006, 11:04 AM
I am waivering now that I have the vibration problem under control (when I was entirely frustrated, I was thinking that I just needed to dump the replicas). I am a problem solver so I wanted to make sure that I was not acting for the wrong reasons.
This is a leased car, and with $1600 out of pocket on the replica wheels and tires, I am not sure though that I want to dish out another $1600 for the new wheels, even if I can recyle the tires (I am also lowering the car).
If I have no vibration, I will stay with the replicas. I am fully convinced now after my experiment that most of the complaints about vibration in the replicas are "hubcentric" related. Any issues that have to do with balancing can be handled with the hunter 9700 machine and proper weights.
This is a leased car, and with $1600 out of pocket on the replica wheels and tires, I am not sure though that I want to dish out another $1600 for the new wheels, even if I can recyle the tires (I am also lowering the car).
If I have no vibration, I will stay with the replicas. I am fully convinced now after my experiment that most of the complaints about vibration in the replicas are "hubcentric" related. Any issues that have to do with balancing can be handled with the hunter 9700 machine and proper weights.
09-24-2006, 04:31 PM
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I am very excited!!! 
I just took off the rear wheels and retighened them with metal hubcentric rings. They fit the best. The plastic ones are 74.0 outside, and the metal ones are 74.1 inside.
The inside is 72.60 which is slightly larger than the hub at 72.56. I put HVAC metal tape around the inside of the ring to get a better fit. It worked great.
Then, I secured the front wheels so I could spin the rear wheels while tightening.
This morning (before the changes), the passenger seat was shaking at 70mph. After the job was done, no shaking. I think that I got this one down.
Correction on my rear spacers. The wheel store told me that I had 30mm spacers. I do not! I have 20mm spacers (I was even charged for 30mm spacers). I am taking my business to another place for the lowering after they cancelled the appointment this weekend.
My530i, I have pictures in other posts. If you do a search for my posts, you will find them. I do not have access to my pictures right now.
I just took off the rear wheels and retighened them with metal hubcentric rings. They fit the best. The plastic ones are 74.0 outside, and the metal ones are 74.1 inside.
The inside is 72.60 which is slightly larger than the hub at 72.56. I put HVAC metal tape around the inside of the ring to get a better fit. It worked great.
Then, I secured the front wheels so I could spin the rear wheels while tightening.
This morning (before the changes), the passenger seat was shaking at 70mph. After the job was done, no shaking. I think that I got this one down.
Correction on my rear spacers. The wheel store told me that I had 30mm spacers. I do not! I have 20mm spacers (I was even charged for 30mm spacers). I am taking my business to another place for the lowering after they cancelled the appointment this weekend.
My530i, I have pictures in other posts. If you do a search for my posts, you will find them. I do not have access to my pictures right now.