Earthquake sub and amp question
01-01-2009, 07:21 AM
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Did anyone installed them yet?
if i get them do i need to get another amp to power them or can i use existing one?
and is there anyway i can replace stock speaker amp so that i can have much clear sound?
if i get them do i need to get another amp to power them or can i use existing one?
and is there anyway i can replace stock speaker amp so that i can have much clear sound?
01-01-2009, 10:18 AM
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My Ride: 2005 545i Black Sapphire Metallic; Sport Package, Black Dakota Interior, Premium Package, Cold Weather Package, Shade Package, Pro logic 7 Premium Sound, Park Distance Control, Bluetooth, Active Steering, Front/Rear Heated Seats and Steering Wheel, Xenon lights
Yes you'll need another amp or else it would be a waste. From what I've read, the stock amp is the main problem as its not strong enough to push even the stock subs, let alone the earthquakes.
I myself have the earthquakes sitting in the box at the house now and waiting on the amp wiring kit to come in the mail before I can give it a shot. I'll be installing (or at least attempting) a JBL amp to the earthquakes using a line out converter to carry the signal from the head unit to the new amp. I'll try to post something if I can manage to come out successful. There are several pretty detailed DIY's for an amp and subwoofer install that are definitely worth looking at. I'll be using those references to put mine in.
I myself have the earthquakes sitting in the box at the house now and waiting on the amp wiring kit to come in the mail before I can give it a shot. I'll be installing (or at least attempting) a JBL amp to the earthquakes using a line out converter to carry the signal from the head unit to the new amp. I'll try to post something if I can manage to come out successful. There are several pretty detailed DIY's for an amp and subwoofer install that are definitely worth looking at. I'll be using those references to put mine in.
01-01-2009, 12:39 PM
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My Ride: 2005 545i /w Sport pkg - SMG - Nav - Premium pkg - PDC - Ready to begin my modding! =)
Try member Mag75, he bought the SWS-8/Amp combo and wasnt satisfied with the amp, so I think he's using the stock amp and seems happy i believe. I could be mistaken but according to a PM I got from him, I am pretty sure thats his current set up. Stock amp and SWS speakers
I think I am going the amp AND speaker route, but you could just try swapping the speakers see if it makes a difference and see if your satisfied, then decide to purchase the amp. Since changing the speakers out is the easiest part.
GL
I think I am going the amp AND speaker route, but you could just try swapping the speakers see if it makes a difference and see if your satisfied, then decide to purchase the amp. Since changing the speakers out is the easiest part.
GL
01-03-2009, 08:18 AM
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Ok, I've been lurking long enough.... Time to chime in and give back to fellow e60'ers on something I have an answer for... 
I did this about 3 months ago. Used 2ohm SWS Earthquake drivers. Stock amp does not have the muscle to push these to audible level, even though they are only 2ohm load... that kinda surprised me.
They are a drop-in mod-- no surgery required. Later, I dropped in a 200x2 amp and that did the trick.
Adjustment and balance can take a while because all controls for the amp are in the trunk. Simply tap the signals at the factory amp plug.
Sound is deeper, fuller, and much improved over OEM, extending down to about 40hz but dropping off very quickly from there. Without some active equalization, these drivers won't go lower. Also, since they are 8" drivers, they don't have "punch" or "hit". Just good real-life bass. IMO, they are really more of an upper bass driver. "Sub"-woofers are really all about producing "sub" bass freqs... i.e. below 40hz.
If you're looking for high impact bass, look at more traditional 12" or larger drivers, and plan on significant modifications/surgery to allow the sound to pass from the trunk to the cabin. Unless you have the ski-hole, you'll need to open up the rear seat-backs.
G'luck,
Chris
I did this about 3 months ago. Used 2ohm SWS Earthquake drivers. Stock amp does not have the muscle to push these to audible level, even though they are only 2ohm load... that kinda surprised me.
They are a drop-in mod-- no surgery required. Later, I dropped in a 200x2 amp and that did the trick.
Adjustment and balance can take a while because all controls for the amp are in the trunk. Simply tap the signals at the factory amp plug.
Sound is deeper, fuller, and much improved over OEM, extending down to about 40hz but dropping off very quickly from there. Without some active equalization, these drivers won't go lower. Also, since they are 8" drivers, they don't have "punch" or "hit". Just good real-life bass. IMO, they are really more of an upper bass driver. "Sub"-woofers are really all about producing "sub" bass freqs... i.e. below 40hz.
If you're looking for high impact bass, look at more traditional 12" or larger drivers, and plan on significant modifications/surgery to allow the sound to pass from the trunk to the cabin. Unless you have the ski-hole, you'll need to open up the rear seat-backs.
G'luck,
Chris
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