Connection for after market Audio
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Originally Posted by nelson29' post='433500' date='Jun 9 2007, 01:41 AM
You won't be able to fit anything larger than a 4'' in the stock door location. they also have to be shallow speakers. focal, mb quart and I think rainbow makes shallow 4'' mid.. I went that route with some focal k2p speakers and wasn't sastified with the output.back them I was using the stock unit to power the speakers so if you using an aftermarket amp it would sound a lot better.
4" only in the door stock location...that what I'm thinking also. But I will be 'nightmare' for midbass.
In my other car, I using the 6.5" Focal K2p in front (powered by 100W rms) and thay work out fine but only with minimal midbass, it not hard to imagine how those 4" will sound.
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Originally Posted by KU530' post='433700' date='Jun 9 2007, 11:15 AM
Here is the deal since you do not have an amp in the rear of the car you are going to have to pull the head unit and tap into the harness. You have a few options. you can use the high level inputs on the 360.2 or you can use a LOC either way you are going to have to pull the dash. This way you still have idrive functions. I will caution you these cars can be sensitive when it comes to the electrical so don't just go hacking wires. Your biggests problem is you will not have any midbass in your car just a set of 4" drives is not going to get it done.
http://forums.e60.net/index.php?showtopic=39814&st=195
Since 4" is not going to do the job as a good midbass, I planning to get the Dynaudio sytem 222 for front. I think I will put the mid in the bottum of the door and the tweet on the dash.
I just wonder KU530, how do u connect your signal ? Are u using any sound processors?
#13
I want to add a 2 channel amp and sub to my system. Nothing crazy at all, just a little more bass. I have read the DIY for this and have done pleanty of amp installs in the past (not on hi-end cars). I kind of trust my own work over these shops I have been to, especially for what they want to charge me! Anyways, I have 2 questions.....
-If I unhook the battery, what happens to the computer system/I-Drive? Do I need to reset it? Does the date and time and system checks get messed up? I am sure I can fix the date/time but what about service times etc....?
-Will splicing the wires on the rear amp (standard system) do anything to the Idrive? I dont want to do a hack job but it seems that splicing the wires for the LOC is the only way to tap into the remote wire.... correct?
-If I unhook the battery, what happens to the computer system/I-Drive? Do I need to reset it? Does the date and time and system checks get messed up? I am sure I can fix the date/time but what about service times etc....?
-Will splicing the wires on the rear amp (standard system) do anything to the Idrive? I dont want to do a hack job but it seems that splicing the wires for the LOC is the only way to tap into the remote wire.... correct?
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After talking to my audio installer yesterday, he suggest me to do my system like this:
(My car original system is the EUROPE SPEC system without sub and amps.)
Installer said to cut off rear speaker wire and connect the high level signal into my RF360.2. Then connect RF360.2 RCA output into my Audison VRX6420 amp. The first four channel use to run component set (Dynaudio 222) up front (active), and the last 2 channel use to run a sub box in the trunk. My frist choice of sub will be the Focal Polyglass 11" Sub in vented box. He said this plan will not effect my i-drive and in the same thime can give me a very good SQ 2ways audio system. The only set back will be the lack of rear channel.
How do u guys think about the plan above?? I still not too sure weather this is going to work out nicely or not. Please advice.
(My car original system is the EUROPE SPEC system without sub and amps.)
Installer said to cut off rear speaker wire and connect the high level signal into my RF360.2. Then connect RF360.2 RCA output into my Audison VRX6420 amp. The first four channel use to run component set (Dynaudio 222) up front (active), and the last 2 channel use to run a sub box in the trunk. My frist choice of sub will be the Focal Polyglass 11" Sub in vented box. He said this plan will not effect my i-drive and in the same thime can give me a very good SQ 2ways audio system. The only set back will be the lack of rear channel.
How do u guys think about the plan above?? I still not too sure weather this is going to work out nicely or not. Please advice.
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