nelson29

+1

subterFUSE

In theory, every time you drop the impedance by half, the effective wattage doubles. However, you must keep in mind that I said "in theory." Not all amps are capable of running at 1 ohm stable. Only high-current amps designed for the purpose of low impedance loads are up to that challenge. Typically, these types of amps were used in car audio competitions for Max SPL per watt. Sometimes they were called "cheater" amps because they allowed the user to compete in a low watt class, but get more loudness.

So... if you had one of these high-end amplifiers that can truly run comfortably at 1 ohm, then you would be getting 350 W x 2 = 700 Watts.

In reality, the amp you have can't run at 1 ohm comfortably, so it will probably do one or more of the following things:

1. It will probably get VERY hot.
2. It might turn on some internal protection mode which either shuts off the amp, or limits the output.
3. It will likely begin to clip the audio signal, which in turn will cause the speaker's voice coil to get hot.
4. Over time, a speaker with overheated voice coil can be damaged.
5. The overall sound quality of the stereo system will be dimished.


Edit: I was just looking at your amp on Alpine's website. Here are the specs:

Features and Specification
SPECIFICATIONS

CEA-2006 Power Ratings CEA-200
Power Rating: (4 I? @14.4V ?% THD+N, S/N: 75dBA, ref:1W into 4 I?) 300W x 1

RMS Power Ratings Per channel into 4 Ohms: (@ 14.4V ?%THD+N, 20Hz - 200Hz) 300W x 1
Per channel into 2 Ohms: (@ 14.4V ?%THD+N, 20Hz - 200Hz) 500W x 1


Considering that info above, I think you're only getting about 500 Watts when running at 2 ohms. I don't think this amp is going to give you any more than 500 Watts, no matter how hard you push it. My feeling is that 500 Watts would be pushing this amp harder than recommended.

subterFUSE

@ Nelson29 I don't think I ever noticed you were in Orlando. Who did your audio system? I had mine done at Ultimate Audio, and been very pleased thus far.

spediegunz

Is this info in reference to my current mrp-m350, or the one I wanted to get the mrp-m500?

Btw the amp does over heat and if played at higher volume would eventually cut out until I reset it. I have the gain set all the way low on it and the bass setting on the idrive low as well but that sub is so terrific that it still shines under those conditions and the inappropriate amp that is also wired incorrectly.
I'm going to take your advise and pick up the pdx m6 but I'm trying to find a used one to cut on cost.

tpaxadpom

Hm interesting point of view. W7 were designed for SQ first and for everything else second. JL audio made some modifications to W7 and use them in their home subs. Notice they used W7 as the base model not anything else. W7 is the best JL audio driver for car audio application, period (pro sealed box, not HO vented). When I purchased my W7 back in ~2004/05 all of my friends wanted to get one. Some considered dual W6, but once compared to single 1 W7 side by side the choice was obvious.
http://www.jlaudio.com/cls112rg-w7-c...-systems-93036
http://www.jlaudio.com/cvs212rg-w6v2...-systems-93065
You have more headroom (higher SPL) with 2 W6 of the same size but not the SQ. When ID (internet direct) companies showed up on horizon with home audio subs (i.e. svs audio, epik, ED) many didn't appreciate the SQ as they got used to listen to high harmonic distortions. Once you get used to high quality bass (low distortions) you can easily pinpoint flaws in lower quality subs. I am not saying W6 are not capable subs, they are, it is just that W7 is in the league of it's own (JL audio subs only).
I have 2 12" Type R alpine subs in my wife's car and they are fine. I have mrp-m850 that drives both of them. I believe they are 4 Ohms connected in parallel for 2Ohm load. For the amp I will look into some old school amps on ebay/craigslist. You can find a bargain there or a broken one

Most modern sub amps use class D amplifier design. The real world efficiency can go up to 85%. Look at the fuse size on the amp. Continuous power = (fuse amp rating x voltage at the amp connector) x (efficiency). Some amps like the old school Xtant X1001 take no less than 0 gauge and don't even have build in fuse holders. Instead they recommend to use external fuse (120A). You have to see real measurements done with laboratory equipment (i.e. Audio Precision 2722 with dummy load or similar) to know what the real power output is.

nelson29

You got very bad memory brother We used to post a lot in the same audio threads a couple of years ago. You knew i was in Orlando I got my system done with Octave in Winter Park.

subterFUSE

Those are the M500 specs.

subterFUSE

Doh!!

MORI3L

Hmm....Its tough...I previously came from a W6 and can tell you that the SQ is definitely there. I think a more fair comparison would be to say that the bass is different on a W6 then a W7. A W6 will yield punchy bass where as the W7 is more like a rumble. Personally I like the punchy bass better but I guess it's a matter of preference.