Velcro!

 

i screwed into that grey cover u lift to get to the spare. I took the sub out today tho. wanted the extra weight gone. feels good with out the 80 lbs back there

 

What are you running for mid and highs? Are you just looking to add more bass?

 

I plan to amp up the mids and highs I really just had this old amp and sub lying around and I hooked it up for fun. Now that the sub blew I feel like I can't live with out the bass. Music just sounds weird without it

 

That's what I'm running.
Single 12W6v2 with a JL Audio HD750.1 mono amp.

 

Very similar to my setup....although I went for the W7...I must say next time I might opt for two 12W6's as they sound much better.

 

Sup guys Im here to say i should of listened to you and spent a little more when my sub had went out. I did up getting one of the alpine type r 10 inch subs and it sounds really great with my existing old amp alpine mrp m350 but when a song comes on that I really wanna hear the base knock and i crank it up my amp would pretty much cut out but still be on...... So today I took the time out to do a little hw and learn more about these systems, I learned all about ohms and wiring in parallel or in series. So i know now I have to get a better amp I don't think i have a 4 ohms sub but I'm not fully sure I have to go home later and check. Assuming I have a 2 ohms dvc sub and i know currently I have it wired to my present amp in parallel putting my current amp at an unstable 1 ohms @350 watts.. obviously I know now that is the reason the amp keeps going into protection mode. So my question is i still want to be cheap but I want the setup to work right. I know some of you have suggested the alpine m6 which does 600 watts at 2 or 4 ohms but that sub cost more than I want to spend I figure if I liked the sound of the sub pushing at 350 all I really need is about 400 watts but stable to be happy with the sound. So i was looking at the alpine mrp m500 to buy unfortunately it is not rated to play safely at 1 ohm so i have to reconfigure my sub wiring to 2 ohms wired in series making the amp give me 300 watts output. Vs the 5 max I could be getting if i wire it in parallel. So I'm wondering what do you guys think is the mrp m500 a decent enough amp for the type r?

 

In my experience, you will be underpowering that subwoofer by using the MRP M500 amp. The woofer you have features a dual voice coil which gives you alternative wiring options, but I would suggest running it at 4 ohms and not 2 ohms. The MRP M500 only offers 300 Watts @ 4 ohms, which is underpowering the woofer. You need to be running more like 600 Watts to that woofer at 4 ohms to get the sort of performance you desire.

I suggest you get the PDX-M6 amp. It offers 600 Watts @ 4 ohms.


I can tell you that it is far better to overpower a speaker and run the amp cooler, than to underpower it and drive the amp to it's limits. When an amplifier plays to it's limits, the liklihood of distortion increases. Distorted audio causes a speaker's voice coil to overheat which will cause damage over time.

I am running 750 Watts to my subwoofer, even though the "recommended" max power is 500 Watts. But my amp is set to a low gain and I have lots of headroom. This is much better than running a smaller amp very hard to achieve the same loudness.

 

The W7 are very nice subwoofers, but I agree with you that they are built first for SPL and second for sound quality.
I have used the W6 series JL Audio woofers for the past 15+ years and they have always served me well.
I admit that the W6 woofer is very power-hungry, but that's never been an issue for me. I like having high-powered systems with lots of headroom to spare.

 

ahh I guess I should say the answer you have given me is something I trully knew already deep inside I was just hoping you were going to say its ok to be cheap this time smh..... let me ask you a question about how many watts do you think I'm getting right now with my current setup at 1 ohm when the amp gives you 350 at 2