SUCCESS! I connected the resistor the "correct" way and I no longer have the lamp-out error in I-Drive. However, there is strobing when the light switch is in the 0ff position, but not in the Auto position.

I removed the trunk liner and saw the open space you were talking about. So I guess I'll save the relay project for another day.

Here's a video of the strobing and some pics of the adapter I made.
strobing.wmv

 

Nice job Ryan. So that method won't melt the wires right? hmm.. I can do that right now. =)

Also, what's the use for the relay? to prevent strobing?

I shall go 2 radio shack later.

 

I haven't done any long term testing on a night drive, but I had them on for a few minutes and didn't feel any signs of detectable heat. The resistors I used are encased in ceramic and are about twice the size of the 10w/50-Ohms resistors. I don't know if that makes a difference.

The relay will prevent the strobing. I'm trying to find a smaller relay that will fit through the plate light hole. Otherwise if you use the standard auto relays, you'll have to remove the trunk liner to install them.

 

don't you sleep?!!??! What's wrong with you!!! hahaha.


Hmmm... so you're saying if this is bigger, it'll give off less heat? hmmm I think they get just as hot.. I could be wrong.


do you think when you tuck the resistor back into the trunk, it'll touch the plastic piece of the trunk LED? since there's so much wires and it's not really hanging anywhere, it might fall.

 

Hahaha, I went to sleep after I posted that last message.

When I pulled down the trunk liner to see if there's room for the relay, the resistors were sitting in an open space near the sheet metal of the car, so it's not going to touch the plastic housing of the LED's. The only concern I have is the wiring on my adapter might melt, but we'll just have to wait and see on that one.

Fred, any thoughts on this?

 

I just LOL when I see the ceramic power resistor is tie like that. Looks like you're desperate for the light One word, take it off now! Leave it on for 5-10 minutes and you see how hot it is.
Buy the one with heatsink and screw it to the inner metal of the trunk after removing trunk liner. This will be much safer.
The larger value of power resistor, the less current will go through and less heat dissipated.
However, if there is too little current flow, LCM will flag, so there is an optimal resistance value and the only way to find out is trial and error.

 

LOL, thanks Fred. So ceramic resistors suck then huh? Where can I buy the one's with the heat sink?

BTW, how do you remove the trunk liner? I removed all the push pins, but could only get the top part behind the license plate to pull down. The liner with tool box attached to it wouldn't budge.

 

So do the resistors gather any heat at all with this new method?

 

I just did some testing and ran the lights for about 15 minutes. The resistors get warm, but not hot enough to where I couldn't handle them with my bare hands. They got warm to the touch after about 3-4 minutes and stopped getting any warmer after about 6-7 minutes. Seems like they'll operate fine to me.

Thoughts on this Fred?

 

If that's OK, I still suggest using the one with heat sink. What value of resistor do you use?