BIG news - my engine overheated
06-08-2011, 09:00 PM
#81
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Oh wow, I haven't been following this thread for a while, because I was actually out doing stuff 
UPDATE: I've had a misfire - engine was NOT knocking. Great news
I had the coil replaced and she's purring like a kitten again.
Now, there's still oil in the coolant. And I'm not too sure whether it is because the guys that did the thermostat and water pump job hadn't bothered to flush it, or because it is mixing in the oil exchanger. I've since changed mechanics, because I've discovered an excellent technician.
Either way, oil exchanger and it's gaskets are the first thing to look at, when you're dealing with this kind of problem. The oil exchanger has lines in and out for both - oil and coolant, and it is quite possible (even probably in my case) that it is the issue. I already bought the gaskets and will buy the heat exchanger, if I do need it (my indie says he will be able to test it, once he takes it off).
There is, unfortunately, still a possibility that the block is cracked and the car needs a new engine. I do believe that a crack in a well-maintained engine at this mileage is a flaw from the factory - either design or manufacturing flaw. It is NOT any kind of "normal" wear and tear - that's indisputable.
UPDATE: I've had a misfire - engine was NOT knocking. Great news
I had the coil replaced and she's purring like a kitten again.Now, there's still oil in the coolant. And I'm not too sure whether it is because the guys that did the thermostat and water pump job hadn't bothered to flush it, or because it is mixing in the oil exchanger. I've since changed mechanics, because I've discovered an excellent technician.
Either way, oil exchanger and it's gaskets are the first thing to look at, when you're dealing with this kind of problem. The oil exchanger has lines in and out for both - oil and coolant, and it is quite possible (even probably in my case) that it is the issue. I already bought the gaskets and will buy the heat exchanger, if I do need it (my indie says he will be able to test it, once he takes it off).
There is, unfortunately, still a possibility that the block is cracked and the car needs a new engine. I do believe that a crack in a well-maintained engine at this mileage is a flaw from the factory - either design or manufacturing flaw. It is NOT any kind of "normal" wear and tear - that's indisputable.
06-09-2011, 06:43 AM
#82
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Alright guys,
let's try and stay on topic and not let anyone/thing distract you from doing so,
thanx
Gene
let's try and stay on topic and not let anyone/thing distract you from doing so,
thanx
Gene
06-09-2011, 06:51 AM
#83
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Oh wow, I haven't been following this thread for a while, because I was actually out doing stuff
UPDATE: I've had a misfire - engine was NOT knocking. Great news I had the coil replaced and she's purring like a kitten again.
Now, there's still oil in the coolant. And I'm not too sure whether it is because the guys that did the thermostat and water pump job hadn't bothered to flush it, or because it is mixing in the oil exchanger. I've since changed mechanics, because I've discovered an excellent technician.
Either way, oil exchanger and it's gaskets are the first thing to look at, when you're dealing with this kind of problem. The oil exchanger has lines in and out for both - oil and coolant, and it is quite possible (even probably in my case) that it is the issue. I already bought the gaskets and will buy the heat exchanger, if I do need it (my indie says he will be able to test it, once he takes it off).
There is, unfortunately, still a possibility that the block is cracked and the car needs a new engine. I do believe that a crack in a well-maintained engine at this mileage is a flaw from the factory - either design or manufacturing flaw. It is NOT any kind of "normal" wear and tear - that's indisputable.
UPDATE: I've had a misfire - engine was NOT knocking. Great news
I had the coil replaced and she's purring like a kitten again.Now, there's still oil in the coolant. And I'm not too sure whether it is because the guys that did the thermostat and water pump job hadn't bothered to flush it, or because it is mixing in the oil exchanger. I've since changed mechanics, because I've discovered an excellent technician.
Either way, oil exchanger and it's gaskets are the first thing to look at, when you're dealing with this kind of problem. The oil exchanger has lines in and out for both - oil and coolant, and it is quite possible (even probably in my case) that it is the issue. I already bought the gaskets and will buy the heat exchanger, if I do need it (my indie says he will be able to test it, once he takes it off).
There is, unfortunately, still a possibility that the block is cracked and the car needs a new engine. I do believe that a crack in a well-maintained engine at this mileage is a flaw from the factory - either design or manufacturing flaw. It is NOT any kind of "normal" wear and tear - that's indisputable.
That's great news Vladdy, hopefully it is just the heat exchanger and your car will be good as new pronto. That way you can focus on the wedding and getting used to never being right again
06-09-2011, 07:51 PM
#84
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John, I don't really want to focus on the wedding lol I just want to be done with it already - all this theatrical crap isn't me. I'm more like "put bread on table" kind of person. At least, I'd like to think so 
I'm trying to figure out whether the fact that the first cylinder's coil (that's the first one up front, next to the heat exchanger) may have been related. And if yes, is it really a sign that the engine is cracked? I guess, once, I replace the heat exchanger and the gaskets, I'll know. But I'm very concerned still. Though I'm still hoping for the best.
I'm trying to figure out whether the fact that the first cylinder's coil (that's the first one up front, next to the heat exchanger) may have been related. And if yes, is it really a sign that the engine is cracked? I guess, once, I replace the heat exchanger and the gaskets, I'll know. But I'm very concerned still. Though I'm still hoping for the best.
06-09-2011, 07:56 PM
#85
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John, I don't really want to focus on the wedding lol I just want to be done with it already - all this theatrical crap isn't me. I'm more like "put bread on table" kind of person. At least, I'd like to think so
I'm trying to figure out whether the fact that the first cylinder's coil (that's the first one up front, next to the heat exchanger) may have been related. And if yes, is it really a sign that the engine is cracked? I guess, once, I replace the heat exchanger and the gaskets, I'll know. But I'm very concerned still. Though I'm still hoping for the best.
I'm trying to figure out whether the fact that the first cylinder's coil (that's the first one up front, next to the heat exchanger) may have been related. And if yes, is it really a sign that the engine is cracked? I guess, once, I replace the heat exchanger and the gaskets, I'll know. But I'm very concerned still. Though I'm still hoping for the best.
I hope it's not cracked, even if the coil is related you can get upgraded ones from Bavauto.com for around $250 - not a bad deal Bro. No matter what, good luck and I know you're not going anywhere.
06-09-2011, 08:10 PM
#86
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Wish I had known about the upgraded coils - I went and got only one from the dealer and had it replaced. Just for the time being. Had I known about upgraded ones, I'd've upgraded them all. I still might - if engine ends up being okay
06-09-2011, 08:28 PM
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A good compression test (engine cranks and you measure the pressure generated in the individual cylinders), and a cylinder leak down test (pressurize each cylinder at TDC then measure the rate at which the pressure bleeds off) should be able to tell you if you have a cracked block, cracked or warped head, bad head gasket seal, or burnt valve. That's where your tech needs to start.
Also, oil in the coolant = major bad. Even if the source of the oil leaking in is repaired, you absolutely have to get all that oil out of there. It might take a LOT of flushing, and even after you think you got it all out, some more might come back up, especially if it got into the heater core inside the cabin. That oil will foul the heat exchange surfaces in the engine and radiator and cause high heat and even overheat if bad enough. The oil will also degrade your rubber coolant hoses to the radiator and can cause them to swell and burst suddenly (personal experience talking here), causing a new catastrophic loss of coolant and potentially overheating the engine all over again.
As I mentioned, in the case of my mercedes I ultimately had to replace the radiator, expansion tank, and all the rubber hoses. Before I finally figured out it was a bad head gasket I had repaired my broken hose, then flushed out the system... the oil in the coolant immediately came back and I knew I had a problem.
I definately think that it is repairable, and if it was my car that's the route I'd choose to go... better the devil you know....
edited to add: If you had a cracked cylinder, I should think it would be blowing all kinds of oil out the crankcase breather system into the EGR / emmissions systems, and again, a compression test will spot that. I'd say that anything other than a cracked block is repairable, and if the block was cracked, then I'd go hunting around in all the regional bone yards for a replacement motor to drop in whole... don't even bother rebuilding your old one in that case. With a used motor out of a wreck, you've got a factory built motor and you're only paying the labor to pull the old motor out and install the used one in.
Also, oil in the coolant = major bad. Even if the source of the oil leaking in is repaired, you absolutely have to get all that oil out of there. It might take a LOT of flushing, and even after you think you got it all out, some more might come back up, especially if it got into the heater core inside the cabin. That oil will foul the heat exchange surfaces in the engine and radiator and cause high heat and even overheat if bad enough. The oil will also degrade your rubber coolant hoses to the radiator and can cause them to swell and burst suddenly (personal experience talking here), causing a new catastrophic loss of coolant and potentially overheating the engine all over again.
As I mentioned, in the case of my mercedes I ultimately had to replace the radiator, expansion tank, and all the rubber hoses. Before I finally figured out it was a bad head gasket I had repaired my broken hose, then flushed out the system... the oil in the coolant immediately came back and I knew I had a problem.
I definately think that it is repairable, and if it was my car that's the route I'd choose to go... better the devil you know....
edited to add: If you had a cracked cylinder, I should think it would be blowing all kinds of oil out the crankcase breather system into the EGR / emmissions systems, and again, a compression test will spot that. I'd say that anything other than a cracked block is repairable, and if the block was cracked, then I'd go hunting around in all the regional bone yards for a replacement motor to drop in whole... don't even bother rebuilding your old one in that case. With a used motor out of a wreck, you've got a factory built motor and you're only paying the labor to pull the old motor out and install the used one in.
06-09-2011, 10:14 PM
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A good compression test (engine cranks and you measure the pressure generated in the individual cylinders), and a cylinder leak down test (pressurize each cylinder at TDC then measure the rate at which the pressure bleeds off) should be able to tell you if you have a cracked block, cracked or warped head, bad head gasket seal, or burnt valve. That's where your tech needs to start.
Also, oil in the coolant = major bad. Even if the source of the oil leaking in is repaired, you absolutely have to get all that oil out of there. It might take a LOT of flushing, and even after you think you got it all out, some more might come back up, especially if it got into the heater core inside the cabin. That oil will foul the heat exchange surfaces in the engine and radiator and cause high heat and even overheat if bad enough. The oil will also degrade your rubber coolant hoses to the radiator and can cause them to swell and burst suddenly (personal experience talking here), causing a new catastrophic loss of coolant and potentially overheating the engine all over again.
As I mentioned, in the case of my mercedes I ultimately had to replace the radiator, expansion tank, and all the rubber hoses. Before I finally figured out it was a bad head gasket I had repaired my broken hose, then flushed out the system... the oil in the coolant immediately came back and I knew I had a problem.
I definately think that it is repairable, and if it was my car that's the route I'd choose to go... better the devil you know....
edited to add: If you had a cracked cylinder, I should think it would be blowing all kinds of oil out the crankcase breather system into the EGR / emmissions systems, and again, a compression test will spot that. I'd say that anything other than a cracked block is repairable, and if the block was cracked, then I'd go hunting around in all the regional bone yards for a replacement motor to drop in whole... don't even bother rebuilding your old one in that case. With a used motor out of a wreck, you've got a factory built motor and you're only paying the labor to pull the old motor out and install the used one in.
Also, oil in the coolant = major bad. Even if the source of the oil leaking in is repaired, you absolutely have to get all that oil out of there. It might take a LOT of flushing, and even after you think you got it all out, some more might come back up, especially if it got into the heater core inside the cabin. That oil will foul the heat exchange surfaces in the engine and radiator and cause high heat and even overheat if bad enough. The oil will also degrade your rubber coolant hoses to the radiator and can cause them to swell and burst suddenly (personal experience talking here), causing a new catastrophic loss of coolant and potentially overheating the engine all over again.
As I mentioned, in the case of my mercedes I ultimately had to replace the radiator, expansion tank, and all the rubber hoses. Before I finally figured out it was a bad head gasket I had repaired my broken hose, then flushed out the system... the oil in the coolant immediately came back and I knew I had a problem.
I definately think that it is repairable, and if it was my car that's the route I'd choose to go... better the devil you know....
edited to add: If you had a cracked cylinder, I should think it would be blowing all kinds of oil out the crankcase breather system into the EGR / emmissions systems, and again, a compression test will spot that. I'd say that anything other than a cracked block is repairable, and if the block was cracked, then I'd go hunting around in all the regional bone yards for a replacement motor to drop in whole... don't even bother rebuilding your old one in that case. With a used motor out of a wreck, you've got a factory built motor and you're only paying the labor to pull the old motor out and install the used one in.
Honestly, all this crap is getting on my nerves so much, that I'm just thinking to maybe auction this car off while its kind of running, and forget it. Get a lease, under warranty 335 and enjoy the rest of the summer...
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