AUX low frequency is weak
#1
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My Ride: 2005 (born 11/04) 525i Touring: jet black, bi-xenons, sports suspension, extended air conditioning.
Retrofits: hinged cubby hole, AUX-input, generic I-Drive video interface (a.k.a. xbox-e60)
Warranty repairs:
software update, door seals replaced, loose aluminium trim fixed.
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Self-levelling compressor.
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Hi,
As you might know from the AUX input circuit diagram that there is one 300kOhm resistor between the right and left signals. I was told (technician guy) that it protects the radio but also cuts off the lowest frequencies form the signal. Well,
I've been using the AUX for some sound content for a while and I think that the bass is really lacking in AUX. E.g. if I switch the radio on the bass is much much deeper.
Tech guy also said that this resistor can be removed if there is a problem with the sound (bass).
Have anybody of you noticed this ?
As you might know from the AUX input circuit diagram that there is one 300kOhm resistor between the right and left signals. I was told (technician guy) that it protects the radio but also cuts off the lowest frequencies form the signal. Well,
I've been using the AUX for some sound content for a while and I think that the bass is really lacking in AUX. E.g. if I switch the radio on the bass is much much deeper.
Tech guy also said that this resistor can be removed if there is a problem with the sound (bass).
Have anybody of you noticed this ?
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I haven't noticed this. What audio device are you attaching to the aux input? If it's a MP3 player, it could be the encoding method/bitrate you're using. I have an iPod and ripped using Exact Audio Copy @ 256 kbps VBR and the sound quality is very good. Also using a line out, not the headphone jack (headphone jacks reduce output, particularly bass).
#3
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My Ride: 2005 (born 11/04) 525i Touring: jet black, bi-xenons, sports suspension, extended air conditioning.
Retrofits: hinged cubby hole, AUX-input, generic I-Drive video interface (a.k.a. xbox-e60)
Warranty repairs:
software update, door seals replaced, loose aluminium trim fixed.
Repairs:
Self-levelling compressor.
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Originally Posted by stream' date='Jul 16 2005, 07:56 PM
I haven't noticed this.? What audio device are you attaching to the aux input?? If it's a MP3 player, it could be the encoding method/bitrate you're using.? I have an iPod and ripped using Exact Audio Copy @ 256 kbps VBR and the sound quality is very good.? Also using a line out, not the headphone jack (headphone jacks reduce output, particularly bass).
[snapback]149755[/snapback]
Good, very good
I just tested with variable bit rate 128kbps and 256kbps fixed rate, both actually have same (or very similar) bass, so I think that I was fooled by the fact that the input volume (gain) is a bit lower in my mp3 player than in radio. And my player has already volume level in top.
Turning the volume up when using AUX seems to be cure here... or using the volume normalization software for my music files... must be standard stuff for you mp3 people
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I was also worried because this tech guys comment "there might be loss in bass". So, that not seem to be problem here.
Thanks for your help.
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My aux input volume is also lower than the CD changer or radio--the tricky part is when you're switching from aux input to radio--the volume is very loud!
For volume normalization, I used MP3Gain (recommended by Merzbow)--works much better than the "sound check" option on iPod--but unless you use a very high target volume, the aux input still won't be as loud as the other inputs:
http://mp3gain.sourceforge.net/
For volume normalization, I used MP3Gain (recommended by Merzbow)--works much better than the "sound check" option on iPod--but unless you use a very high target volume, the aux input still won't be as loud as the other inputs:
http://mp3gain.sourceforge.net/
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Originally Posted by petri' date='Jul 16 2005, 10:19 AM
Hi,
As you might know from the AUX input circuit diagram that there is one 300kOhm resistor between the right and left signals.
As you might know from the AUX input circuit diagram that there is one 300kOhm resistor between the right and left signals.
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Did anyone ever try removing the 300 ohm resistor or replacing it with another? My bass on my aux input is almost non-existent. Where is the resistor located, on the end where the aux 1/8 " input is?? The dealer insists this is "Just how it sounds". So far i'm real dissappointed at what my 200 or so bucks got me.......
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Originally Posted by acribb' post='207599' date='Dec 5 2005, 04:22 PM
Did anyone ever try removing the 300 ohm resistor or replacing it with another? My bass on my aux input is almost non-existent. Where is the resistor located, on the end where the aux 1/8 " input is?? The dealer insists this is "Just how it sounds". So far i'm real dissappointed at what my 200 or so bucks got me.......
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Did anyone ever try removing the 300 ohm resistor or replacing it with another? My bass on my aux input is almost non-existent. Where is the resistor located, on the end where the aux 1/8 " input is?? The dealer insists this is "Just how it sounds". So far i'm real dissappointed at what my 200 or so bucks got me.......
[/quote]
My MP3s are encoded @ 256K VBR, but I do not adjust the volume to be louder. I am also using the line out of the bottom of the Ipod using a Pocketdock. It does help when using the bass booster equalizer setting on the Ipod, but the rich depth of the bass is still just not there.
My dad's Nissan Titan has a factory aux input which you just plug into the front, and the bass sounds fine on his stereo. You do have to turn up the volume louder to hear it, nonetheless the bass response is the same as listening to a CD on the factory Nissan Rockford Fosgate system. We put a $100 Dual receiver with aux input into my wife's Honda Accord, and the bass sounds fine and equal between CD and the aux. I play my Ipod on my home stereo and it sounds fine. I play my Ipod on my 55K car, with a $225.00 aux input, and it sound like crappola. Crazy, huh?
BTW, I burned an MP3 cd from Itunes with the same playlist I set up on my Ipod, and then tested the CD vs. the Ipod that way. I would play both at the same time, then switch back and forth from CD to Aux. I leave the Ipod with the EQ off. Wow, what a difference in sound. Even when turning the bass all the way up on the stereo and the treble down below half, the bass response is still not even about a 1/4 of the bass with the CD and the bass set at half way.
The Service Manager said he had heard of people complaining of the sound quality. Personally, I don't think I should have to pay for an inferior product. I still plan on testing the aux input on a 3 series to see if I get the same results. This morning when I dropped the car off for service, we discussed the aux input sound problem - I told him to pull it and give me my money back. I could have sworn this morning when I dropped the car off that me and the Service Manager had agreed upon him pulling it and giving my money back. I call back the Service Advisor in the afternoon, and he doesn't know what i'm talking about, so I speak to the Service Manager again, at which time he informs me that he WILL NOT give me my money back and that I misheard him. I'm still trying to come to a compromise with him on what to do about this.
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I understand you are not happy with it, but it is what it is. Most people (including myself) are quite happy with the input. Not everyone is the audiophile that you are. The aux input has never been officially supported by BMWNA for this exact reason. It is not worth it for BMW to have to support. If you go in and start messing with resistors and really screw something up you will expect BMW to fix that as well. As far as wanting the $225 back that is a tough call. They did the work, the fact that you are not happy with the results may not be their fault.
#10
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The better audiophile you're, the worst your life is. You'd spend $$$$$ on audio just fit your taste, but might be not to others. It's cool to be audiophile, but I don't want to unless I have tons of money
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