Audio system too powerful
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i installed the system on my own. I have 4 guage power and ground wires all around, hi lo converter to RCA's. Its not hard to mess this install up, mono amp, one sub. I can see voltage drop on the stinger cap. This may be a stupid question but are you supposed to charge the farad cap after it has been done once. I took the cap out of my old truck and just plugged it in, no sparks or anything.
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caps only need to be charged once. if you remove it from the car you can dis-charge it by holding the power and ground together with a resistor in series and read the V until you get 0. to re-charge just put the resistor in series with the power wire once fully connected until 12v is obtained.
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My Ride: 04 545i sport, stick, L7, sat, nav. Charcoal/ runflat/ cdv delete.
Suede headliner/ trunk, 3 way front speakers, four 8" subs in rear shelf, ACM, iPod dock in ash tray using gateway 500 with MP3 text and video on screen, MRTM aluminum pedals/ door pins, 10 farad cap, sound processor, line conditioner, 2 amps ( 4x100 and 2x200)
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There is some good debate over the actual benefits of a capacitor for a car audio system. I am not going to argue the point either way, as I do not want to start more debate on the subject here. For some interesting technical debate on capacitors in cars see capacitor debate
Here are some safe statements I can make on the subject:
1) The alternator is the only devise that creates electricity, batteries and capacitors only store energy.
2) The common 1 farad car audio capacitor only holds a fraction of the energy that a battery stores. ( around 1/2600th )
3) A capacitor will sometimes reduce headlight dimming, not always.
4) If your car has a 180 amp alternator and you install a 250 amp stereo system, no amount of batteries and capacitors will solve the real problem.
Here are some safe statements I can make on the subject:
1) The alternator is the only devise that creates electricity, batteries and capacitors only store energy.
2) The common 1 farad car audio capacitor only holds a fraction of the energy that a battery stores. ( around 1/2600th )
3) A capacitor will sometimes reduce headlight dimming, not always.
4) If your car has a 180 amp alternator and you install a 250 amp stereo system, no amount of batteries and capacitors will solve the real problem.
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I think its something else wrong. My mono fosgate (1001db mono @ 1ohm) pulls the same power as your jl. And my eclipse is being pushed to its max at 1ohm (1051 watts pushing it) with out any cap my HID'S dont even dim. Try changing battery to a yellow top optimum. I never thought caps did much of anything.
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isnt our battery stronger than the yellow top battery? its 950cca. Btw yellowtop or redtop and do they make them for our e60's, i couldnt find any?
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My Ride: 04 545i sport, stick, L7, sat, nav. Charcoal/ runflat/ cdv delete.
Suede headliner/ trunk, 3 way front speakers, four 8" subs in rear shelf, ACM, iPod dock in ash tray using gateway 500 with MP3 text and video on screen, MRTM aluminum pedals/ door pins, 10 farad cap, sound processor, line conditioner, 2 amps ( 4x100 and 2x200)
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Originally Posted by aresh' post='1091046' date='Jan 14 2010, 07:45 PM
What do you suggest is the best option methodstereo?
If you believe in the benefit of adding a capacitor, then a good one to look for would be as large as possible with the least amount of ESR. I chose the Rockford Fosgate 10 farad hybrid capacitor for my cap/ distribution block. Bat Cap, Alumapro, and Phoenix Gold also make large capacitors of similar quality. Here is the point I was trying to make- buying a large capacitor might help reduce the dimming of the lights, but should not be thought of as the solution to a bigger problem. You can have a powerful system in an E60, just do it in moderation. I kept mine under 800 watts. The computers in the E60 are meant to be run at a steady 14-14.8 volts. (this is not a great car for DB drag / SPL competition).
Here are some guidelines that you might find to be helpful as you try to solve the power problems in your car:
1) Do not connect any devise directly to the negative battery terminal ( IBS- intelligent battery sensor ).
2) Do not use your stereo system without turning the car on, or using a power supply. ran stereo with car off
3) Make sure to use proper sized power and ground wire for your amps.
4) Do not use the signal sensing feature that is built into some amps and or sound processors. Use the ignition signal to turn on/ off your equipment. Avoid using terminal 30 or 30G for accessory signal.
5) Try to avoid adding more than 1000 watts total, or no more than about 100 amps current draw. The stock alternator is only about 180 amps.
6) For vehicles that make frequent short trips, I suggest a good quality BMW approved trickle charger. It is best to install it in a way that still allows the car to go to sleep. trickle charger plug