Aftermarket DVD player
05-03-2005, 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by subterFUSE' date='May 3 2005, 06:12 PM
My primary concern is that I want to preserve the resale value of my vehicle because my name is on the list for an M5.? If I mess with the car, the resale value will be killed....? no question about it.
My second concern is what the increased current load will do to the iDrive.? The iDrive is simply a computer system.? Computer systems do not generally like voltage fluctuations.? In a true, high-end audio system...? you'll most likely be using high-current amplifiers.? In order to supply those amps with the necessary current, you need to supply power for the components.? That power comes from two places, the battery and the alternator.? The battery is what runs everything, the alternator charges the battery.
Remembering back to my experience in the past... I have always had power issues in my car stereo installs.? In my Acura I resorted to installing a beefed-up alternator, an optima yellowtop battery and several stiffening capacitors.? While this helped, I still experienced current draw to the amplifiers which exceeded the alternator rating.? The result was that when using multiple automobile devices such as A/C, headlights, wipers, etc....? and playing the stereo, I was having issues with voltage spikes and drops.? This leads to headlights dimming, and other issues.
My Lexus had similar problems.? In that car, I installed a larger alternator, optima yellowtop and a 15-farad capacitor.? I STILL had voltage drops constantly.? But on the Lexus, the voltage drops would occasionally make the car computer reboot.
Remembering these issues, and then projecting the same issues on my E60....? I fear the consequences of messing with the car.? What if I damage the iDrive?? How much will that cost to fix?? I hear people say it takes hours or days just to update the iDrive...? but what if I f@#k it up bad?? BMW will absolutely void the warranty, and I'll be stuck with a huge bill to fix the problem....? and then I'll have a car with lower value because the problem will be known to the dealer.
The other reason I won't do a system in the E60 is because I am too much of a purist to do a stereo system halfway.? Installing amps, speakers, and subs without changing out the source unit is absolutely out of the question for me.? Either I do everything, or nothing.? A chain is only as strong as the weakest link....? and the factory system is junk compared to the gear I want to replace it with.? I just find it pointless to spend thousands of dollars to use the factory source unit.
My second concern is what the increased current load will do to the iDrive.? The iDrive is simply a computer system.? Computer systems do not generally like voltage fluctuations.? In a true, high-end audio system...? you'll most likely be using high-current amplifiers.? In order to supply those amps with the necessary current, you need to supply power for the components.? That power comes from two places, the battery and the alternator.? The battery is what runs everything, the alternator charges the battery.
Remembering back to my experience in the past... I have always had power issues in my car stereo installs.? In my Acura I resorted to installing a beefed-up alternator, an optima yellowtop battery and several stiffening capacitors.? While this helped, I still experienced current draw to the amplifiers which exceeded the alternator rating.? The result was that when using multiple automobile devices such as A/C, headlights, wipers, etc....? and playing the stereo, I was having issues with voltage spikes and drops.? This leads to headlights dimming, and other issues.
My Lexus had similar problems.? In that car, I installed a larger alternator, optima yellowtop and a 15-farad capacitor.? I STILL had voltage drops constantly.? But on the Lexus, the voltage drops would occasionally make the car computer reboot.
Remembering these issues, and then projecting the same issues on my E60....? I fear the consequences of messing with the car.? What if I damage the iDrive?? How much will that cost to fix?? I hear people say it takes hours or days just to update the iDrive...? but what if I f@#k it up bad?? BMW will absolutely void the warranty, and I'll be stuck with a huge bill to fix the problem....? and then I'll have a car with lower value because the problem will be known to the dealer.
The other reason I won't do a system in the E60 is because I am too much of a purist to do a stereo system halfway.? Installing amps, speakers, and subs without changing out the source unit is absolutely out of the question for me.? Either I do everything, or nothing.? A chain is only as strong as the weakest link....? and the factory system is junk compared to the gear I want to replace it with.? I just find it pointless to spend thousands of dollars to use the factory source unit.
[snapback]123654[/snapback]
I'll have to find out for myself how much noise/distortion/EQ is going to be introduced by the factory head unit and the LOC we're doing. I'm not a hardcore purist, but I will run tests with music in the car and the same music elsewhere. If it bothers me, then the easiest solution would be to provide a second aux input for my MP3 player directly into our setup, bypassing the factory hardware. The signal can just be combined with the output from the factory end so that I can still listen to the radio, PDC warnings, bluetooth, etc. when I want.
05-03-2005, 08:04 PM
#12
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2005 545I Black Saphire Metalic, with Black Dakota Leather, Poplar trim. Sport Package, MTech Body kit and Spoiler, HUD, Comfort Seats, Navigation, Premium sound, CWP, Heated Rear Seats, Window shades. Valentine 1 hardwired, Aux input.
Originally Posted by Presley348' date='Apr 30 2005, 04:13 AM
BMW NA[quote name='LuvE60' date='Apr 30 2005, 03:11 AM']Well, I am going up North with the family this weekend, and the kids want to take the GX470 in lieu of the new 545I.? The Lexus has a DVD player, and also can accomodate the PS2.? I have to get some entertainment in the car.? I was at Best Buy this evening, and I saw some in dash players.? Can I replace the single CD with this unit and have it work with the Logic Seven?? I also saw some on roof units.? Same question.? Will it work with Logic 7?? What is the best solution here?
Any good installers in the Thousand Oaks, CA area?? Within no more than 25 miles?
Any good installers in the Thousand Oaks, CA area?? Within no more than 25 miles?
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Hi LuvE60:
CLICK ON: http://www.bmwusa.com/ and if not already registered, then register and go to the "Owner's Circle" or "My BMW" and email BMW NA and ask them your DVD question, and within 48 hrs they will answer you by email. BMW NA has answered all my questions so far, and I found by experimenting first and being disappointed, that the BMW genius's are right!
I hate to admit failure!!! :'( (Jk LOL),, but Chris Bangle and his BMW design team are some hi tech men, who meet and place their knowledge in our e60's iDrive's, and one little thing added new to our e60's, i.e. a new "Latest" & "Greatest" aftermarket (3rd party) product (s), that attempts to be plugged in with our iDrive technology itself, can really mess our Microsoft type e60 operating systems up and we then we have a bad day, and unless your a Bill Gates, type, (Jk LOL), I would not attempt it aftermarket, (and save your money or take out a loan) and stay BMW OEM all the way!
I wish you the best with your new 545i!
Sincerely,
R. Eddie Presley
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[/quote]I think I will take that advice. I am going to do something, but keep it independent of the Idrive and audio system. The kids can listen through Headphones.
05-03-2005, 09:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Merzbow' date='May 3 2005, 07:25 PM
[quote name='subterFUSE' date='May 3 2005, 06:12 PM']My primary concern is that I want to preserve the resale value of my vehicle because my name is on the list for an M5.? If I mess with the car, the resale value will be killed....? no question about it.
My second concern is what the increased current load will do to the iDrive.? The iDrive is simply a computer system.? Computer systems do not generally like voltage fluctuations.? In a true, high-end audio system...? you'll most likely be using high-current amplifiers.? In order to supply those amps with the necessary current, you need to supply power for the components.? That power comes from two places, the battery and the alternator.? The battery is what runs everything, the alternator charges the battery.
Remembering back to my experience in the past... I have always had power issues in my car stereo installs.? In my Acura I resorted to installing a beefed-up alternator, an optima yellowtop battery and several stiffening capacitors.? While this helped, I still experienced current draw to the amplifiers which exceeded the alternator rating.? The result was that when using multiple automobile devices such as A/C, headlights, wipers, etc....? and playing the stereo, I was having issues with voltage spikes and drops.? This leads to headlights dimming, and other issues.
My Lexus had similar problems.? In that car, I installed a larger alternator, optima yellowtop and a 15-farad capacitor.? I STILL had voltage drops constantly.? But on the Lexus, the voltage drops would occasionally make the car computer reboot.
Remembering these issues, and then projecting the same issues on my E60....? I fear the consequences of messing with the car.? What if I damage the iDrive?? How much will that cost to fix?? I hear people say it takes hours or days just to update the iDrive...? but what if I f@#k it up bad?? BMW will absolutely void the warranty, and I'll be stuck with a huge bill to fix the problem....? and then I'll have a car with lower value because the problem will be known to the dealer.
The other reason I won't do a system in the E60 is because I am too much of a purist to do a stereo system halfway.? Installing amps, speakers, and subs without changing out the source unit is absolutely out of the question for me.? Either I do everything, or nothing.? A chain is only as strong as the weakest link....? and the factory system is junk compared to the gear I want to replace it with.? I just find it pointless to spend thousands of dollars to use the factory source unit.
My second concern is what the increased current load will do to the iDrive.? The iDrive is simply a computer system.? Computer systems do not generally like voltage fluctuations.? In a true, high-end audio system...? you'll most likely be using high-current amplifiers.? In order to supply those amps with the necessary current, you need to supply power for the components.? That power comes from two places, the battery and the alternator.? The battery is what runs everything, the alternator charges the battery.
Remembering back to my experience in the past... I have always had power issues in my car stereo installs.? In my Acura I resorted to installing a beefed-up alternator, an optima yellowtop battery and several stiffening capacitors.? While this helped, I still experienced current draw to the amplifiers which exceeded the alternator rating.? The result was that when using multiple automobile devices such as A/C, headlights, wipers, etc....? and playing the stereo, I was having issues with voltage spikes and drops.? This leads to headlights dimming, and other issues.
My Lexus had similar problems.? In that car, I installed a larger alternator, optima yellowtop and a 15-farad capacitor.? I STILL had voltage drops constantly.? But on the Lexus, the voltage drops would occasionally make the car computer reboot.
Remembering these issues, and then projecting the same issues on my E60....? I fear the consequences of messing with the car.? What if I damage the iDrive?? How much will that cost to fix?? I hear people say it takes hours or days just to update the iDrive...? but what if I f@#k it up bad?? BMW will absolutely void the warranty, and I'll be stuck with a huge bill to fix the problem....? and then I'll have a car with lower value because the problem will be known to the dealer.
The other reason I won't do a system in the E60 is because I am too much of a purist to do a stereo system halfway.? Installing amps, speakers, and subs without changing out the source unit is absolutely out of the question for me.? Either I do everything, or nothing.? A chain is only as strong as the weakest link....? and the factory system is junk compared to the gear I want to replace it with.? I just find it pointless to spend thousands of dollars to use the factory source unit.
[snapback]123654[/snapback]
I'll have to find out for myself how much noise/distortion/EQ is going to be introduced by the factory head unit and the LOC we're doing. I'm not a hardcore purist, but I will run tests with music in the car and the same music elsewhere. If it bothers me, then the easiest solution would be to provide a second aux input for my MP3 player directly into our setup, bypassing the factory hardware. The signal can just be combined with the output from the factory end so that I can still listen to the radio, PDC warnings, bluetooth, etc. when I want.
[snapback]123677[/snapback]
[/quote]On a previous thread someone claims that the E60 alternator puts out 160 amps (wonderful thing that search button). At full blast, then, an 1800 watt stereo system should be pushing out something like 130 amps, right? Could be a little tight, but I have no intention of running at half max volume for any length of time. I wonder what the average load is of the iDrive without the stereo on.
Worries about voltage fluctuations to the iDrive are valid to some degree - but I would assume that BMW has already designed to account for such fluctuations. Just from what I read it seems that the voltage fluctuates quite a bit as a result of normal usage of car functionality and stuff you plug into the 12-volt.
Is an upgraded battery, like the Optima that Subterfuse recommends, useful only when the car is turned off or can it weigh in if the current draw becomes too much for the alternator with the car on? (Not an electronics expert here).
I wonder if/when aftermarket alternators will become available for the E60.
05-04-2005, 02:04 PM
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05-04-2005, 05:33 PM
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The 1800 watt system in my Lexus could EASILY draw more than 130 amps. But the amps were HUGE. A lot of companies use "cheater" technology to boost the output rating... These amps basically run a low impedance levels to increase the output power by several multiples.
The amps in my Lexus were not cheater amps. They were huge, high-end amps rated for 4 ohm operation. The subwoofer amp was like 24" wide (or maybe even more), and the 4 channel was the same size. The power supply on both of those amps was bigger than a damned Krispy Kreme doughnut.
The 1400 subwoofer amp drew 120 amps by itself when running hard, then add the 4x100 watt amp drawing anywhere from 60-100 amps, headlights, air conditioning, wipers, etc.... and the current draw was ridiculous. The current draw far, far exceeded the output of the alternator.
The Optima helps even when you are running the engine. It is a deep-cycle, gel-cell battery designed for harsh use.
I also suggest you invest in capacitors. I used an AlumaPro CAP in my Lexus, and it was the saving grace. Without that thing, there would have been no way my system could have worked. A capacitor is basically a battery that can charge and discharge VERY quickly. You install it between the amps and the battery, so that when the amps need a quick jolt of power.... they draw it from the capacitor rather than the battery or alternator.
The typical rule of thumb is use 1 farad of capacitance for every 1000 watts of power.... however, you can NEVEr have too much capacitance.
My AlumaPro CAP was rated at 15 farads.
Another advantage of BMW is that the battery is in the back, so your power cable runs will be shorter, which creates less resistance. You won't need to use as heavy gauge wire as you would need if the run had to be front to back like my Lexus.
The amps in my Lexus were not cheater amps. They were huge, high-end amps rated for 4 ohm operation. The subwoofer amp was like 24" wide (or maybe even more), and the 4 channel was the same size. The power supply on both of those amps was bigger than a damned Krispy Kreme doughnut.
The 1400 subwoofer amp drew 120 amps by itself when running hard, then add the 4x100 watt amp drawing anywhere from 60-100 amps, headlights, air conditioning, wipers, etc.... and the current draw was ridiculous. The current draw far, far exceeded the output of the alternator.
The Optima helps even when you are running the engine. It is a deep-cycle, gel-cell battery designed for harsh use.
I also suggest you invest in capacitors. I used an AlumaPro CAP in my Lexus, and it was the saving grace. Without that thing, there would have been no way my system could have worked. A capacitor is basically a battery that can charge and discharge VERY quickly. You install it between the amps and the battery, so that when the amps need a quick jolt of power.... they draw it from the capacitor rather than the battery or alternator.
The typical rule of thumb is use 1 farad of capacitance for every 1000 watts of power.... however, you can NEVEr have too much capacitance.
My AlumaPro CAP was rated at 15 farads.
Another advantage of BMW is that the battery is in the back, so your power cable runs will be shorter, which creates less resistance. You won't need to use as heavy gauge wire as you would need if the run had to be front to back like my Lexus.
05-12-2005, 06:41 AM
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Originally Posted by subterFUSE' date='May 4 2005, 07:33 PM
The 1800 watt system in my Lexus could EASILY draw more than 130 amps.? But the amps were HUGE.? A lot of companies use "cheater" technology to boost the output rating...? These amps basically run a low impedance levels to increase the output power by several multiples.
The amps in my Lexus were not cheater amps.? They were huge, high-end amps rated for 4 ohm operation.? The subwoofer amp was like 24" wide (or maybe even more), and the 4 channel was the same size.? The power supply on both of those amps was bigger than a damned Krispy Kreme doughnut.
The 1400 subwoofer amp drew 120 amps by itself when running hard, then add the 4x100 watt amp drawing anywhere from 60-100 amps, headlights, air conditioning, wipers, etc....? and the current draw was ridiculous.? The current draw far, far exceeded the output of the alternator.
The Optima helps even when you are running the engine.? It is a deep-cycle, gel-cell battery designed for harsh use.
I also suggest you invest in capacitors.? I used an AlumaPro CAP in my Lexus, and it was the saving grace.? Without that thing, there would have been no way my system could have worked.? A capacitor is basically a battery that can charge and discharge VERY quickly.? You install it between the amps and the battery, so that when the amps need a quick jolt of power.... they draw it from the capacitor rather than the battery or alternator.
The typical rule of thumb is use 1 farad of capacitance for every 1000 watts of power....? however, you can NEVEr have too much capacitance.
My AlumaPro CAP was rated at 15 farads.
Another advantage of BMW is that the battery is in the back, so your power cable runs will be shorter, which creates less resistance.? You won't need to use as heavy gauge wire as you would need if the run had to be front to back like my Lexus.
The amps in my Lexus were not cheater amps.? They were huge, high-end amps rated for 4 ohm operation.? The subwoofer amp was like 24" wide (or maybe even more), and the 4 channel was the same size.? The power supply on both of those amps was bigger than a damned Krispy Kreme doughnut.
The 1400 subwoofer amp drew 120 amps by itself when running hard, then add the 4x100 watt amp drawing anywhere from 60-100 amps, headlights, air conditioning, wipers, etc....? and the current draw was ridiculous.? The current draw far, far exceeded the output of the alternator.
The Optima helps even when you are running the engine.? It is a deep-cycle, gel-cell battery designed for harsh use.
I also suggest you invest in capacitors.? I used an AlumaPro CAP in my Lexus, and it was the saving grace.? Without that thing, there would have been no way my system could have worked.? A capacitor is basically a battery that can charge and discharge VERY quickly.? You install it between the amps and the battery, so that when the amps need a quick jolt of power.... they draw it from the capacitor rather than the battery or alternator.
The typical rule of thumb is use 1 farad of capacitance for every 1000 watts of power....? however, you can NEVEr have too much capacitance.
My AlumaPro CAP was rated at 15 farads.
Another advantage of BMW is that the battery is in the back, so your power cable runs will be shorter, which creates less resistance.? You won't need to use as heavy gauge wire as you would need if the run had to be front to back like my Lexus.
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Amp=watts/volts
or in a car amps=watts/12
Even a very good 1800 watt amp will only draw that for a millisecond - hence the value of a capacitor. The average draw should be much much less. I'm curious if with that system you could dim the headlights in the Lexus. It would be an interesting test to remove the capacitor and see how easy the lights would dim with high bass. It is unlikely that this would damage the car's computer in anyway but on the sensitive Idrive - it might crash.
05-12-2005, 09:21 AM
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My headlights and even interior lights onthe Lexus dimmed all the time. Even with the Optima and the 15 farads of capacitance. A few times the Car's computer lost power and restarted, while the system was running hard.
I projected this issue onto my BMW... and felt the risk of voiding the warranty on my iDrive outweighs the benefit of the stereo.
I projected this issue onto my BMW... and felt the risk of voiding the warranty on my iDrive outweighs the benefit of the stereo.
05-16-2005, 10:53 PM
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Originally Posted by subterFUSE' date='May 12 2005, 10:21 AM
My headlights and even interior lights onthe Lexus dimmed all the time.? Even with the Optima and the 15 farads of capacitance.? A few times the Car's computer lost power and restarted, while the system was running hard.
I projected this issue onto my BMW...? and felt the risk of voiding the warranty on my iDrive outweighs the benefit of the stereo.
I projected this issue onto my BMW...? and felt the risk of voiding the warranty on my iDrive outweighs the benefit of the stereo.
[snapback]127587[/snapback]
05-17-2005, 02:34 AM
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My Ride: 2005 545i (SMG)
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M-tech kit
Sport Package
Premium Sound
Satellite Radio
Active Cruise
Comfort Seats
Navigation
Folding rear seats
There isn't a stereo shop in my area which I can trust with my car. My car is probably worth more than the entire business of any shop around here, they're all so ghetto. Maybe there's a place in Miami that's decent? I just don't know. I'm actually surprised there are not any serious high-end shops in Orlando, though.
My plan is to get an M5, and then that will be the LAST type of car I will ever drive for the rest of my life. I will place myself on the M5 list for the next generation, and continue the cycle forever. So I'll be keeping those cars for a lot longer than this 545i I have now. Perhaps with my M5 I will try a stereo... but only time will tell.
My plan is to get an M5, and then that will be the LAST type of car I will ever drive for the rest of my life. I will place myself on the M5 list for the next generation, and continue the cycle forever. So I'll be keeping those cars for a lot longer than this 545i I have now. Perhaps with my M5 I will try a stereo... but only time will tell.