sd_dracula

Recently I have replaced all 4 midranges with Logic 7 midranges and also aded Logic 7 tweeters to the front doors/rear shelf.
The sound is soo much clearer and the treble is actually present now.

One small issue is that now, the bass is pretty much gone.
I know the underseat subs are wired in parallel to the front door midranges and the standard audio door speakers are more "bassy" than the L7 ones.

I'm not looking for something to blow your brains but more on the lines of 2 x SWS-8 Earthquakes, under the seats (instead of my 6.5" factory) and a 2 channel amp.

1. Can anyone recommend a decent 2x150w RMS 4ohm 2 channel amp? Like Alpine MRP-F300 perhaps?
2. Would this JBL GT5-A604E which is rated 2x160w RMS in bridged mode, be too much since the Eartquakes are only 150w RMS?
3. What kind of signal input does the amp need, low level or high level?
4. Would the gain would be too insignificant to justify the price?
5. Could I just tap into the current sub cables for the amp inputs or would I need to get it from the back of the head unit? And if I need the head unit cables, is it just the front door speakers since they are wired in parallel with the under seat factory subs?

sd_dracula

Any of the sound experts?

inktoxicated

i have my highs and underseats ran to a alpine 5 channel 75x 4 300x1 have the underseats at 150x2 on that 5th channel

sd_dracula

What model of the alpine?
I take it by 4x75 you mean the 2 front door speaker + 2 tweeters?

bruce_miranda

The Rockford Fosgate Prime R300-4. Great amp to drive the subs and fits in the space over the left wheel arch too.

inktoxicated

pdx-5 the 75x4 would really mean like 75 to each corner (speaker/tweeter) so those are on a crossover so i guess getting the watts split. sounds pretty. good. i have a alpine m6 running a single 10 in a sealed box too

sd_dracula

Thanks.
Bruce that one looks good but it has low level pre-amp inputs only and my signal would be high level and amped only since I have standard audio (head unit driven speakers only/no amp or loom in the boot so cant use your amp DIY/Technic harness) would a LOC like this one be enough as input taken from the underseat subs and then connected to the front only RCA inputs on the r300-4?
Or you can you just solder RCA heads onto the new wires ran from the underseat subs?

bruce_miranda

That LOC would be fine.

sd_dracula

Thanks Bruce, appreciate it
One last question on this matter, for various reasons I rather not take the dash apart to get to the back of the head unit for the remote turn-on wire for the amp.
I remember a long time ago seeing someone on the forums just hooking that up to a spare (and unsed) fuse in the trunk just above the battery, which only gets power when either the car is unlocked or when the key is in, can't really remember.
Do you know which one?

bruce_miranda

I would actually recommend have the amp on only when the engine is running - you don't want flat batteries. So take the remote turn on from the boot socket or fuse box that feeds the boot socket. See a DIY in my signature for that.