1M front bumper conversion for E60
Thread Starter
Members
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 167
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From: Elkridge, MD
1M front bumper conversion for E60
Can someone mass produce this kit right here? I would definitely buy it! Wouldn't u? 
I think they use a 1M bumper and molded/bounded it with the existing E60 bumper.
Are there any bodyshop or vendor willing to produce this kit for the 5ers? Let's start a group buy! Here are some of the people that are interested in buying!
1. HKninja
2. dj_rzn
3. deejayjonjon
4. aznfujikiddd
5.
6.
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15.
I think they use a 1M bumper and molded/bounded it with the existing E60 bumper.
Are there any bodyshop or vendor willing to produce this kit for the 5ers? Let's start a group buy! Here are some of the people that are interested in buying!
1. HKninja
2. dj_rzn
3. deejayjonjon
4. aznfujikiddd
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
Last edited by HKninja; Jul 2, 2013 at 09:35 AM.
Thread Starter
Members
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 167
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From: Elkridge, MD
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Joined: Jan 2011
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From: UpState SC
My Ride: 2008 535i LCI with sports/premium package, Sports trans with paddle shifters, CF emblems, JB4 Software, Dinan Exhaust, Navigation, M5Tech body kit, Carbon wrap interrior trim and CIC Controller.
Someone in China needs to jump all over this and develop an inexpensive reactive injection tool (RIM) tool produce these. This is the only way to keep the cost down. Plastic injection tool would be much more expensive which means a higher cost and or having to sell more skins for the ROI. I am sure the response would be very positive if this was done because the bumper REALLY looks NICE!.
The bad part about this modification where two skins are brought together "bonding" is not a good idea. For a prototype, sure, but not a car that is or will be used. I've seen the photos where the person appeared to use a plastic weld gun to join the two skins which is the only way to do this, but this is a huge amount of surface area and there is no way of controlling this process where a weld is too deep or not deep enough resulting in a defective weld. Welding on this material should be contained to small areas, not the entire surface. Then you see where fiberglass, body filler was used to hide the seams. Bad idea... PP is designed to flex and glass strands are used in the material to provide strength, however, fiberglass and body filler will not stick long term. It does adhere ok for the short term but after the bumper begins to flex as you drive the car, you will start to see cracks etc. It will take a little time, but eventually there will be cracking and possible weld separation of the joined components.
The bad part about this modification where two skins are brought together "bonding" is not a good idea. For a prototype, sure, but not a car that is or will be used. I've seen the photos where the person appeared to use a plastic weld gun to join the two skins which is the only way to do this, but this is a huge amount of surface area and there is no way of controlling this process where a weld is too deep or not deep enough resulting in a defective weld. Welding on this material should be contained to small areas, not the entire surface. Then you see where fiberglass, body filler was used to hide the seams. Bad idea... PP is designed to flex and glass strands are used in the material to provide strength, however, fiberglass and body filler will not stick long term. It does adhere ok for the short term but after the bumper begins to flex as you drive the car, you will start to see cracks etc. It will take a little time, but eventually there will be cracking and possible weld separation of the joined components.
Contributors
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 5,781
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From: CA
My Ride: BMW E60
Model Year: 2016
Someone in China needs to jump all over this and develop an inexpensive reactive injection tool (RIM) tool produce these. This is the only way to keep the cost down. Plastic injection tool would be much more expensive which means a higher cost and or having to sell more skins for the ROI. I am sure the response would be very positive if this was done because the bumper REALLY looks NICE!.
The bad part about this modification where two skins are brought together "bonding" is not a good idea. For a prototype, sure, but not a car that is or will be used. I've seen the photos where the person appeared to use a plastic weld gun to join the two skins which is the only way to do this, but this is a huge amount of surface area and there is no way of controlling this process where a weld is too deep or not deep enough resulting in a defective weld. Welding on this material should be contained to small areas, not the entire surface. Then you see where fiberglass, body filler was used to hide the seams. Bad idea... PP is designed to flex and glass strands are used in the material to provide strength, however, fiberglass and body filler will not stick long term. It does adhere ok for the short term but after the bumper begins to flex as you drive the car, you will start to see cracks etc. It will take a little time, but eventually there will be cracking and possible weld separation of the joined components.
The bad part about this modification where two skins are brought together "bonding" is not a good idea. For a prototype, sure, but not a car that is or will be used. I've seen the photos where the person appeared to use a plastic weld gun to join the two skins which is the only way to do this, but this is a huge amount of surface area and there is no way of controlling this process where a weld is too deep or not deep enough resulting in a defective weld. Welding on this material should be contained to small areas, not the entire surface. Then you see where fiberglass, body filler was used to hide the seams. Bad idea... PP is designed to flex and glass strands are used in the material to provide strength, however, fiberglass and body filler will not stick long term. It does adhere ok for the short term but after the bumper begins to flex as you drive the car, you will start to see cracks etc. It will take a little time, but eventually there will be cracking and possible weld separation of the joined components.
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Joined: Jun 2013
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From: Bay Area, CA
My Ride: basketball, cars, track, bmw's, painting cars!
I'm actually working on one as we speak. I will be producing just ONE for my own E60. 
( sense I cant find a grip on the M Bumpers) It's not hard to d... And you don't have to do a "bond" with bondo. (Easier way from experience of owning a body shop) All you need is 12 gauge sheet metal in 3/4 size some rivets and kitty hair fiberglass. .. The rest is shaping and prep.
BUT once you get passed this, you can actually make a MOLD plug and do a fiberglass foam insert, remove that and do a fiberglass skeleton and BAMM you got yourself a mass produced bumper! Hope that makes sense.. Hit me up if anyone's interested.
( sense I cant find a grip on the M Bumpers) It's not hard to d... And you don't have to do a "bond" with bondo. (Easier way from experience of owning a body shop) All you need is 12 gauge sheet metal in 3/4 size some rivets and kitty hair fiberglass. .. The rest is shaping and prep.BUT once you get passed this, you can actually make a MOLD plug and do a fiberglass foam insert, remove that and do a fiberglass skeleton and BAMM you got yourself a mass produced bumper! Hope that makes sense.. Hit me up if anyone's interested.
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Joined: Oct 2011
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From: Wpg, Canada
My Ride: 545i
I'm actually working on one as we speak. I will be producing just ONE for my own E60. ( sense I cant find a grip on the M Bumpers) It's not hard to d... And you don't have to do a "bond" with bondo. (Easier way from experience of owning a body shop) All you need is 12 gauge sheet metal in 3/4 size some rivets and kitty hair fiberglass. .. The rest is shaping and prep.
BUT once you get passed this, you can actually make a MOLD plug and do a fiberglass foam insert, remove that and do a fiberglass skeleton and BAMM you got yourself a mass produced bumper! Hope that makes sense.. Hit me up if anyone's interested.
( sense I cant find a grip on the M Bumpers) It's not hard to d... And you don't have to do a "bond" with bondo. (Easier way from experience of owning a body shop) All you need is 12 gauge sheet metal in 3/4 size some rivets and kitty hair fiberglass. .. The rest is shaping and prep.BUT once you get passed this, you can actually make a MOLD plug and do a fiberglass foam insert, remove that and do a fiberglass skeleton and BAMM you got yourself a mass produced bumper! Hope that makes sense.. Hit me up if anyone's interested.
Plastic weld both sides with or without filler rod. Then use plastic repair filler. Special 2 part adhesive made to flex or be rigid depending which you use and on the type of repair/ area on the bumper. Working in a insurance/ I-car approved body shop you have to do things the right way.
Thread Starter
Members
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 167
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From: Elkridge, MD
I'm actually working on one as we speak. I will be producing just ONE for my own E60. ( sense I cant find a grip on the M Bumpers) It's not hard to d... And you don't have to do a "bond" with bondo. (Easier way from experience of owning a body shop) All you need is 12 gauge sheet metal in 3/4 size some rivets and kitty hair fiberglass. .. The rest is shaping and prep.
BUT once you get passed this, you can actually make a MOLD plug and do a fiberglass foam insert, remove that and do a fiberglass skeleton and BAMM you got yourself a mass produced bumper! Hope that makes sense.. Hit me up if anyone's interested.
( sense I cant find a grip on the M Bumpers) It's not hard to d... And you don't have to do a "bond" with bondo. (Easier way from experience of owning a body shop) All you need is 12 gauge sheet metal in 3/4 size some rivets and kitty hair fiberglass. .. The rest is shaping and prep.BUT once you get passed this, you can actually make a MOLD plug and do a fiberglass foam insert, remove that and do a fiberglass skeleton and BAMM you got yourself a mass produced bumper! Hope that makes sense.. Hit me up if anyone's interested.
Are u able to make a mold for it? I wish someone could try to make this a mass production kit. I can guarantee you that no one will want the M5tech or Mtech bumper amymore. Lol
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Joined: Jun 2013
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From: Bay Area, CA
My Ride: basketball, cars, track, bmw's, painting cars!
fiberglass and sheet metal is a lot stronger than actually using plastic adhesive epoxy bond. I'm experience auto body and painter for the last 15 years don't get me wrong your method would work as well however to create strength right in the structural point of where the reinforcement would go you would make more sense to get a stronger bond there. But once you get your initial mold then the whole bumper can be made out of fiberglass. There are several ways to create a one-off and several ways to mass produce it all depends what you're looking to do. 
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Joined: Apr 2012
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From: MA/CT
My Ride: 2005 525i 6MT
Fiberglass, sheet metal and body filler on a plastic bumper..........
Plastic weld both sides with or without filler rod. Then use plastic repair filler. Special 2 part adhesive made to flex or be rigid depending which you use and on the type of repair/ area on the bumper. Working in a insurance/ I-car approved body shop you have to do things the right way.
Plastic weld both sides with or without filler rod. Then use plastic repair filler. Special 2 part adhesive made to flex or be rigid depending which you use and on the type of repair/ area on the bumper. Working in a insurance/ I-car approved body shop you have to do things the right way.
id give it a try if it didnt require buying two bumpers
