What it means to not have warrantee anymore...
06-11-2010, 05:14 AM
#11
Got the best price for AXXIS pads from Zeckhausen Racing. I didn't need any special tools, I was able to re-use the sensors since the brake warning light was not on.
Only problem was removing on of the rear rotors, but Liquid Wrench came to the rescue. I used the OEM bimetalic riveted rotors, since the hubs do not rust (at least they did not for me).
Only problem was removing on of the rear rotors, but Liquid Wrench came to the rescue. I used the OEM bimetalic riveted rotors, since the hubs do not rust (at least they did not for me).
06-11-2010, 05:35 AM
#12
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My Ride: 2006 525
agree with everyone else. either get a good independent or do it yourself. changing the brakes isnt too hard...check the DIY section for some awesome write-ups.
750 for the window job seems excessive. try the reset procedure. i really doubt you need a new window motor. i personally would learn to live with it if the reset procedure doesnt work.
750 for the window job seems excessive. try the reset procedure. i really doubt you need a new window motor. i personally would learn to live with it if the reset procedure doesnt work.
06-11-2010, 05:39 AM
#13
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Why did I think CPO was good for 100K? I knew there was a time and milage restriction, but ignorant me thought I was well within my time limit. Having just 88K miles on my CPO I took it in today for service. Dealer was very nice, so no disregard for the people at Russell BMW in Maryland. Anyway I usually wait until I have a list of things I need/want checked out. The biggest issue was the stupid Anti-Trap window error, which I could not for the life of me reset. Also the brakes were making some squealing nosies. Lastly the window seal around the rear window - yeah that is all dry rotten, so I wanted a quote to get that replaces. So as Bob, very nice guy starts to look though my paper work stops dead. Looks me in the eye with this ohhh shit expression. I ask, something up. He stated all my service warrantees had expired 2 months ago. Extended and CPO warrantee gone - I'm like Fu$K! BTW, had a very sexy E90 335ci loaner with a manual transmission and red leather interior - very nice! Anyway I get a phone call later in the day updating up as to what's going on.
1. Window Anti-Trap - apparently I need a new motor and wipe. They'd gladly charge me $750 for that
2. Front pads practically gone, Rotor, Pad, Sensor needed. Another $750
3. Rear pads and sensor needed replacement, that was roughly $450
All these are guessed quotes, but still my stomach sank with disappointment. My plan were foiled with wanting to take the BMW in before all this stuff expired - now I'm a paying customer. I realize all this stuff can be expensive, but I wasn't really willing or ready to drop almost 2K in the car today... Ya know! So the Disk, Rotors and Sensor isn't really an issue, but the Anti-Trap issue. My main question there is do I really need a new motor? I mean it works fine other then the intervals it takes when I roll it up/down. Has anyone else had a similar experience like this with the window? Really don't like the idea of tossing $750 at the rear window alone!!! Anyway any suggestions would be helpful. I love my car and hate the idea of getting rid of it, so I'm willing to work with it...
Also looked at the new 535 today - not sure what I think of it. Guess I'm on the fence. To me it sort of looks like a 7 series! I'm sure in time it well wear on me, but for now it's a 7 - I'm convinced of it :-)
Thanks!
-Jay
1. Window Anti-Trap - apparently I need a new motor and wipe. They'd gladly charge me $750 for that
2. Front pads practically gone, Rotor, Pad, Sensor needed. Another $750
3. Rear pads and sensor needed replacement, that was roughly $450
All these are guessed quotes, but still my stomach sank with disappointment. My plan were foiled with wanting to take the BMW in before all this stuff expired - now I'm a paying customer. I realize all this stuff can be expensive, but I wasn't really willing or ready to drop almost 2K in the car today... Ya know! So the Disk, Rotors and Sensor isn't really an issue, but the Anti-Trap issue. My main question there is do I really need a new motor? I mean it works fine other then the intervals it takes when I roll it up/down. Has anyone else had a similar experience like this with the window? Really don't like the idea of tossing $750 at the rear window alone!!! Anyway any suggestions would be helpful. I love my car and hate the idea of getting rid of it, so I'm willing to work with it...
Also looked at the new 535 today - not sure what I think of it. Guess I'm on the fence. To me it sort of looks like a 7 series! I'm sure in time it well wear on me, but for now it's a 7 - I'm convinced of it :-)
Thanks!
-Jay
Do you know I got new cross-drilled/slotted rotors AND pads for the front of my car for about $250 including installation? You need to use a dealer to find out whats wrong with your car, then take it to another shop and let them do it for 75% less.
06-11-2010, 06:07 AM
#14
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My Ride: 2008 550I LOADED, all options except HUD and NV
But the extended maintenance would have, which also ran out.
I've started pricing brakes, though I am came up with a rough estimate of $602 for everything (Sensors, Pads, Rotors) from Bavarian Autosport. Does anyone else have or suggest a website? I'll also need to pick up some tools to do the job. Mainly a brake piston spreader.
I've started pricing brakes, though I am came up with a rough estimate of $602 for everything (Sensors, Pads, Rotors) from Bavarian Autosport. Does anyone else have or suggest a website? I'll also need to pick up some tools to do the job. Mainly a brake piston spreader.
06-11-2010, 08:30 AM
#15
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My Ride: 2011 535I X-Drive - Space Grey / Black Dakota / M-Sport / Sport Auto Transmission with Paddles / Premium I / Premium II / Cold Weather
Gone: 2010 535I - Alpine White / Black / Sport, Premium & Cold Weather Packages / Anthracite liner / Sport Auto with Paddle Shifters / Navigation / Satellite, HD & I-pod
Gone: 2006 530XI - Monaco Blue / Creme Leather
Though a bit of a drive depending on your part of Baltimore, we have a great independent mechanic on the southern end of York, PA.
He is honest, way beyond fair and knows his stuff.
Check in with Erich at Autocraft (717-845-5314)!
He is honest, way beyond fair and knows his stuff.
Check in with Erich at Autocraft (717-845-5314)!
06-11-2010, 08:33 AM
#16
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My Ride: 545i, Adaptive Xenons, 19" 166's
agree with everyone else. either get a good independent or do it yourself. changing the brakes isnt too hard...check the DIY section for some awesome write-ups.
750 for the window job seems excessive. try the reset procedure. i really doubt you need a new window motor. i personally would learn to live with it if the reset procedure doesnt work.
750 for the window job seems excessive. try the reset procedure. i really doubt you need a new window motor. i personally would learn to live with it if the reset procedure doesnt work.
06-11-2010, 09:42 AM
#17
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My Ride: 2004 BMW 530i - no mods. Pretty basic really. I mean it has tires, windows, and a sweet look, what more could a man want? Honestly, I'd like to improve the sound system mildly, and possibly find a worthy engine mod that would increase my BHP by 100 without giving an arm and a leg for. I don't think it's out there, so I'll stay stock and love driving my 530i.
Got the best price for AXXIS pads from Zeckhausen Racing. I didn't need any special tools, I was able to re-use the sensors since the brake warning light was not on.
Only problem was removing on of the rear rotors, but Liquid Wrench came to the rescue. I used the OEM bimetalic riveted rotors, since the hubs do not rust (at least they did not for me).
Only problem was removing on of the rear rotors, but Liquid Wrench came to the rescue. I used the OEM bimetalic riveted rotors, since the hubs do not rust (at least they did not for me).
You all are great! Thanks for the feedback and positive motivation. I've replaced brakes before and will most likely tackle this job also. I just need to pony up the cash and order my stuff.
-Jay
06-11-2010, 12:13 PM
#18
The sensor is simply a piece of wire embedded in a chuck of material that is mounted in one front and one rear brake pad. When the pad wears down to a certain thickness the material starts to wear down. When the material wears down to the point where the wire is contacted and broken you light comes on. If your light is not on, chances are your sensor is intact. Since you are hearing a noise maybe the sensor material is being worn down. I never let my pads go that far. Must be very creful removing the sensors if you want to reuse them since they are brittle and easily broken. One time when I needed a sensor, couldn't get to the dealer and didn't want the annoying light, I cut the the wires that are attached to the sensor, between the sensor and the connector, and spliced them. No more warning light
06-12-2010, 08:40 AM
#20
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SPOILER ALERT*
BMW's are expensive shhhh dont tell anybody
BMW's are expensive shhhh dont tell anybody