realtyman

Hey jtxc, 1 tire or 2?

Viper786

oh ok, cuz i neutral dropped my plymouth neon to death

wolverine

I'm assuming you have a manual. Breaking the rear loose at least a few times and burning rubber are mandatory for proper manual transmission break-in. You don't need no stinkin' water to burn rubber. I just peeled out a nice set of double strips from a stop sign - prob about 50' long. As said in a previous post, turn off DSC, 4000 rpm, dump clutch, push throttle. If you want to stay on the throttle hard, you can really smoke 'em. You'll be suprised how easy it is to 'light 'em up'.

There isn't enough HP or traction in the rear wheels to damage anything in the car. If you make a habit of doing it though, you'll need a new clutch a bit sooner than otherwise.

Viper786

I'm assuming you have a manual. Breaking the rear loose at least a few times and burning rubber are mandatory for proper manual transmission break-in. You don't need no stinkin' water to burn rubber. I just peeled out a nice set of double strips from a stop sign - prob about 50' long. As said in a previous post, turn off DSC, 4000 rpm, dump clutch, push throttle. If you want to stay on the throttle hard, you can really smoke 'em. You'll be suprised how easy it is to 'light 'em up'.

There isn't enough HP or traction in the rear wheels to damage anything in the car. If you make a habit of doing it though, you'll need a new clutch a bit sooner than otherwise. [/quote]
Sorry for my ignorance, but what exactly does "dumping" the clutch mean?

jtxc

Of course I was'nt watching at the time but it had to have been both tires because I went into a seudo power slide. It really is'nt "burning rubber " because of the water but the effect is the same without tearing up too much tread. Once I steptroniced (sp) into second the rear end snaped back

jtxc

Usually you let the clutch out slowly. When you "Dump" the clutch you just let it out quickly, with no resistence and high rpm's.

alohalc

same as "dumping" your girlfriend .

Rudy

realtyman, I beg to differ...

If you press the DSC switch momentarily, the DTC light comes on and the HUD says "DTC active!" (The iDrive screen status bar says something like "DTC active! DSC limited!")

If I press and hold the button for more than four seconds, the HUD (and I think the iDrive status bar) says "DSC inactive!"

What that means is that a quick press of the DSC switch disables all of the functions of DSC except DTC so technically, DSC is only "semi-active" since DTC is a part of DSC. Once you hold the button down, the DTC is disabled which means that now every DSC component is now inactive. (Except, I think, for the component that uses AS to countersteer a pending oversteer situation.)

In your instructions, you said:

Go back and re-read your iDrive screen after pressing the button once. It will not say DTC disabled, it will say DTC activated. There are minor differences between the HUD message and the iDrive message. I may have confused the enabled/activated, disabled/inactive messages but either way, it's clearly operating the way I describe.

SkiScubaSailDude

If you really want alot of smoke... add some bleach to the water put in front of your tires

realtyman

Hey Rudy, you are correct.
That explains why it would kick in when the tires started to spin.

I'll post this pic before someone else does.