When installing the new control arms, make sure you tighten the nut on the bushing end with the suspension in "normal" position, i.e. the spring is compressed by the weight of the car as it normally sits on the ground, otherwise the bushing would be damaged in short order.

 

Thank you for the advise. I do realize this step. This is kind of universal when working on the control arm. I did the same to my Volvo control arm replacement. The only thing that bother me (extra work) is to loosen the strut in order to make room to remove/install upper control arm.

Do you have the torque spec. of the strut bolt/nut and control arm bolt/nut ? Also, do I need to use new bolt/nut ? In my Volvo, I have to ....

Thanks.

 

BMW's TIS (Technical Information Service) recommends changing the bolts and nuts, but I reused them with no problem. Here are the torque values according to TIS:

control arm and thrust arm bushing end : 100 Nm (75 ft-lb) + 90 deg.
control arm and thrust arm ball joint : 80 Nm (60 ft-lb).

 

Thank you. What about the torque value of strut clamp bolt/nut ? We need to unloose this bolt/nut in order to open up the clamp and then lower the steering knuckle for making room to remove the upper control arm.

Thanks.

 

I had the same issue and it was upper control arm ball joint.

 

Thank you for the confirmation.

 

Torque value for pinch bolt/nut : 100 Nm (75 ft-lb).

 

Thank you.

 

I am in the middle of replacing both front upper control arms (tension struts). However, I could not get the strut to lower to 1 inch for taking out old control arm (ball joint side). The most I could lower is about 0.5 inches. I did not clamp the spring. Is that necessary to clamp it down to get the extra 0,5 inch of room ?

Several DIY in this forum did not clamp the spring and some did, which way to go ?

Thanks.

 

I got the steering knuckle lower to 1 inch and took the old upper control arm out. I did not compress the spring. Instead, I used a longer/bigger chisel to tap into the spring clamp and then held the top of brake rotor. I pushed brake rotor toward to wheel well and at the same time push brake rotor down. This gave me enough space to get old control arm out. I used this trick to work on passenger side, replacement went very smooth and much easier.