Susp3nc3

Hey is the below work order a reasonable price for labor and parts?

I know the vacuum pump can be had for much cheaper but what about the gasket job. any input would be greatly appreciated.

FOUND UPPER TIMING COVER GASKETS, OIL PRESSURE SENDER AND BRAKE VACUUM PUMP LEAKING OIL- RECOMMEND REPLACING

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Job02 Remove & Replace Gaskets-BMW06> Labor: $760.00
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111 47 506 424 Timing Cvr Gasket 1.0 @ 7.75 =$ 7.75
111 47 506 425 Timing Cvr Gasket 1.0 @ 7.75 =$ 7.75
113 67 546 379 Cam Solenoid Gasket 2.0 @ 1.90 =$ 3.80
113 67 513 222 Cam Solenoid Gasket 2.0 @ 3.50 =$ 7.00
111 27 513 194 Valve Cover Gasket Set 1.0 @ 89.67 =$ 89.67
111 27 513 195 Valve Cover Gasket Set 1.0 @ 89.67 =$ 89.67
111 27 547 058 Crankcase Vent Valve 2.0 @ 23.98 =$ 47.96
111 27 570 219 Spark Plug Tube 8.0 @ 29.00 =$ 232.00
116 17 540 610 Breather Hose 1.0 @ 63.50 =$ 63.50
071 19 903 596 Cam Adjuster Seal 2.0 @ 3.55 =$ 7.10
111 27 518 420 Eccentr Shft Sens Seal 2.0 @ 5.25 =$ 10.50
121 41 748 398 Pos. Sensor Oring 4.0 @ 1.75 =$ 7.00
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Remove & Replace Valve Cover Gaskets and Timing Cover Gaskets


2006 and under BMW upper Timing Cover & Valve Cover Gaskets

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Job03 Remove & Replace Sender Labor: $57.00
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12 61 7 620 512 Oil Pressure Sender 1.0 @ 17.85 =$ 17.85
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Remove & Replace Oil Pressure Sender

__________________________________________________ ________________
Job04 Remove & Replace Vacuum Pump Labor: $133.00
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11 66 7 545 384 Vacuum Pump 1.0 @ 473.92 =$ 473.92
__________________________________________________ ________________
Remoev & Replace Brake Vacuum Pump


__________________________________________________ ________________
Cost Summary
__________________________________________________ ________________
Labor 950.00
Parts 1,065.47
Subtotal 2,015.47
Tax 85.24
Total $2,100.71
Payments 0.00
Bal Due 2,100.71

RTR

I assume it's a dealer, right? If so, it's reasonable. You might want to find a good indy though.

I guess they have 1/2 hour increments. As replacing the oil pressure sensor is literally 5 minutes once the vacuum pump is out.

DFWBMW550i

looks like they are charging you around 70-75 an hour for labor...so its better than a dealer price

Susp3nc3

The quote was from an indy shop. If its not too bad i would be fine paying a little more from a good shop. I just dont know how much to sink in this aging bmw.

Gatriel

That seems reasonable, but I've gotten quotes for the same job (essentially) for $1575. So I'd keep shopping around.

These damn German cars and their eco-friendly oil seals and 15k milage oil changes.

Ducmaniak

I'm getting my valve covers done tomorrow, quote for valve cover gaskets and labor is about $700 from an INDY. Looks to be about right

RTR

For an indy, that is a bit of a high quote. If he's a highly reputable BMW indy, then the price can be justified.

paran

You're in the ballpark.

Roughly $1500 - 2500 for the work you listed.

What Ya Gonna Do?

As Gatriel states, engine seals are shit on a BMW because of eco-friendly concerns.

The problem I have with many Indy shops is that they have this "cool vibe" about themselves where "details" are not that important.

A plastic retaining clip breaks :"Screw it, I'm not going to bother to stock and replace it.".

So finding a specific, BMW mechanic, that is detailed orientated, is a rare bird indeed.

"Cool" doesn't equate to quality, detailed, work.

You should "meet" and talk with the "actual" mechanic that will be working on your car. If he's got the "cool vibe", walk away, as that is a sure sign of a superficial front for less than perfection. Yes, he's got bravado, but they almost always have less than perfection in mind.

The front desk/office people don't mean squat unless you've got a problem with the work. If you chose the specific mechanic in the first place, they become needless static. Meet the "man" whose going to perform the work; he's the guy that matters most.

Case in point: I had some work done on a car recently by a "cool" Indy shop and the young guys (Under 35) with music blaring left off several plastic clips. "Hey! It's cool! Bring it back and we'll replace them for free!".

Yah. Right. What else (that I don't see) is also missing?

I'm in my late 50's, so I've been around this "stuff" for quite some time. Young and "cool" always means less than perfection.

RAC3

Wasn't there a recall on the brake vacuum pump. I thought was leaking oil issue in the vacuum line into the booster. Might want to check online or with the dealer.

FREE100KSECRET

Like most, oil leaks are a hassle to deal with on BMW's, and when my 545i started to leak, along with smoke from oil seal failure, another issue which sucks on all V-8's made by BMW. Makes you wonder, my 528i has 270K on it and doesn't leak or burn a drop. So it amazes me why the V-8 models are leakers like all British cars were for years.

Before you waste your money on valve gaskets and valve oil seals, try some Lucas oil seal treatment. It has been three months and no more leaks, plus the dreaded oil seal smoke has almost been eliminated in normal use. Before when I would stop a traffic light, anything longer than a minute, and the dreaded smoke signal would rise from rear of car when you take off, BNMW should be ashamed of this issue, totally embarassed to see oil smoke.

Having worked on all my cars for years, what I always found strange about oil seal smokers defies logic with BMW V-8's is this. With all valve seal issues I have had over the years, the smoke from exhaust only occured at start ups or if you would coast down long hill and then accelerate, and puff, cloud of smoke. With my 545i it would only smoke after idle of minute or more, then puff?

Why are the symptoms of hardened or worn valve seals on BMW's totally different? I have searched everywhere for an answer, and no one has yet explained this problem, not even BMW. Simply put, I used Lucas oil treatment and after a month, leaks stopped entirely from valve gasket, and to my surprise, I can idle for just under 4 minutes with no smoke at take offs. Obviously, it didn't completely solve smoking problem, but how many times do you have to idle for more than three minutes?

Here are some things I have learned on this issue. Before Lucas I discovered if you simply tap accelerator to 1500 RPM every minute at light, it would not smoke. Strange, but true. I have standard shift, so easy, but the point is, why does this stop the smoking? I also got same results if I idled at just over 1000 RPM, no smoke. As many may know, smoke from synthetic oil is different than with traditional oil, in fact, the synthetic oil smoke is similar to when water leaks into cylinder from head gasket leaks. It even smells different, something I had never thought about before my issues started at 140K.

Just as a side note, I change my oil with Mobile 1 extra life every 5K, and on last long trip, only used 1 qt. of oil in 3000 miles of mostly high speed run at 70 to 80MPH, so not an oil burner like many I see have complained about. I can see consumption being much higher if you drive mostly stop and go, so this Lucas treatment just may save you thousands like it has for me. I don't sell or work for Lucas, so take it from my experience before spending a ton of money on oil leaks and smoking V-8;s.

Good luck,