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Used car - looking to start strong

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Old 11-30-2021, 08:05 AM
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Default Used car - looking to start strong

Hello all, long time lover, first time owner (5series). I just recently picked up a used 2008 534Xi with a very clean Carfax. After inspecting it, its seems in great shape. My question for the board is, what if anything, would you all do to potentially just rejuvenate the engine and systems?

What I plan to do:
Sythentic Oil Change (purple/molly?)
Coolant Flush
Replace both the Windshield and rear window seals

Should I? (and I know theses are very subjective):
Seafoam/Molly engine/fuel treatment/Slick50? I don't have any light or audible engine issues, but just figure it might not hurt to help remove some stuff

I ordered Carly withe the OBD, the dealer also paid for a new battery, since the old one died, causing the ABS/4x4 lights to go off. I put in the new battery before having carly to register it, so should I take it out? The new one didnt clear the lights right off the bat, so I'm hoping after registering it and with Carly I can clear them.
I also have a TPM light, and I'm unfamiliar with this system, is this tied to the dead battery as well? I tried to reset it in the settings and nothing.
Finally I had a reverse bulb go out so I went to Autozone and bought 921 LED Sylvania's......but now I have the warnings because they are CANBUS? I was reading this up to see if i should just get the regular bulbs now.

Thanks all and look forward to working with everyone.



Old 11-30-2021, 08:51 AM
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twh
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My Ride: 2006 BMW 530xi 6MT
Model Year: 2006
Engine: N52
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For oil, I use Castol 5W-40, BMW LL01 from Walmart, $21/5-quarts.

I would just leave the coolant as-is until you need to do some coolant system work.

No engine oil snake oil.

Fuel treatment is fine.

You don't need to register the battery immediately, nothing bad is going to happen. Just do it at some point. Also, you need to make sure the battery type and capacity is correct in addition to registering. Types are flooded and AGM. Choose the closet capacity in the Carly menu as the battery installed.

Your car has direct pressure TPMS sensors. Either the tire pressure is off, there is something wrong with one of the antennas or your TPMS sensor or sensor battery is dead. Dead battery in TPMS sensor is most likely. You need a new TPMS sensor, but a tire shop can use their tool to tell you that.

You cannot just put in LEDs. The car has a fancy bulb-out detection, which does not work with LED bulbs, so consequently the car thinks the new bulbs are out. Just get regular bulbs and be done with it. You can program the bulb out detection off, but I'd just put in the right bulb.
Old 11-30-2021, 09:39 AM
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My Ride: 2009 535xi Touring 6MT, 2001 325i 5MT
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I bought
these reverse lights these reverse lights
for my E61 a year ago and they work great, significantly brighter than stock. I haven't yet bothered to turn off the bulb check so when the car turns on they flash a couple of times. I think 2 or 3 times I've been told one of the bulbs was out but as soon as I restarted the car it went away.
Old 11-30-2021, 10:04 AM
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Thank you both for the info.

I will refrain from the snake oil, lol, but go ahead with a fuel treatment.
I'll grab the Castrol, Never used that brand but it seems to have a solid following and I'll ensure it has the LL01.
Good to know on the battery stuff and just waiting now for the Carly stuff to come in. Should that hopefully help reset the abs/awd/dsc lights?
I'll take a look at the TPMS and go from there.

For now I'll just go grab two regular bulbs, bu I do appreciate the other offer for the LEDs!
Old 11-30-2021, 10:45 AM
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twh
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Just another note on the LEDs. The bulb-out detection works by very quickly trying to light up the bulb and see if any current is drawn by the circuit. If there is some current, then the car assumes the bulb is fine. This happens very fast and an incandescent bulb never lights because the filament takes longer than that to heat up and produce light. But, the bulb-out test will cause LED bulbs to flicker because they light up much fast and the bulb-out warning is produced because they don't draw the expected current. This bulb-out test happens at car startup, but it also happens while driving, but at infrequent intervals. I think I may have read somewhere the bulb-out detection interval for a running car, but I don't remember it off-hand. My point is, while the car is running, you can have the bulb-out detection taking place and having your LED lights flicker. That may confuse someone behind me.
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