Smog Test
04-19-2012, 01:55 AM
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+1 US Federal Emissions "warranty" requires coverage of many components even after the manufacturer's 4 yr/50K mile vehicle warranty expires.
04-19-2012, 03:16 AM
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My Ride: 2008 535i LCI with sports/premium package, Sports trans with paddle shifters, CF emblems, JB4 Software, Dinan Exhaust, Navigation, M5Tech body kit, Carbon wrap interrior trim and CIC Controller.
Maybe I missed something here, but have you address the issue that is causing the CEL to illuminate? I see that you've reset it, but most of the time they illuminate for a reason. The reason I say this is I had a similar problem on an old E36 M3 with a o2 sensor. I reset it several times and eventually had to get the sensor replaced. After this the light remained off.
04-19-2012, 04:45 AM
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Allen and helpful participants,
Thanks again for taking the time to help!
Yes, the Check Engine Light is "absolutely" the cause to the failed smog test. Prior to the smog check, The Check Engine Light came on three to six times within a month; due to the same code(29D0= Misfire detection cyinder 4 in 3. Ignition sequence). As mentioned before, six new spark plugs and two ignition coils were replaced in hope to remedy the same, constant problem.
Rather than taking the chance and driving it 60 to 600 miles to clear the code internally, do you have a tool to expedite the process and set my car's OBD-II computer for "READINESS" to insure my next smog test will pass??? Of course, I don't have a problem paying you as a token of my appreciation for the fix. I need to find a trust worthy and reasonable priced mechanic for my near term maintenance work, anyways...
Thanks, again!
Thanks again for taking the time to help!
Yes, the Check Engine Light is "absolutely" the cause to the failed smog test. Prior to the smog check, The Check Engine Light came on three to six times within a month; due to the same code(29D0= Misfire detection cyinder 4 in 3. Ignition sequence). As mentioned before, six new spark plugs and two ignition coils were replaced in hope to remedy the same, constant problem.
Rather than taking the chance and driving it 60 to 600 miles to clear the code internally, do you have a tool to expedite the process and set my car's OBD-II computer for "READINESS" to insure my next smog test will pass??? Of course, I don't have a problem paying you as a token of my appreciation for the fix. I need to find a trust worthy and reasonable priced mechanic for my near term maintenance work, anyways...
Thanks, again!
Generally speaking the funtional check is
1. Engine Ignition Timing Not checked on your car because it is done by the computer
2. Check Engine Light
3. Gas Cap & Filler Neck
4. Exhaust Recirculation Valve (EGR)
5. Fuel EVAP Test (LPFET)
I suspect you failed 2. because you either had a code and a light or the computer did not complete all readiness tests yet. IE you cannot just clear the codes and run in to do the smog, the computer must do all the test to make sure the car is ready to go. This can take 40-600 miles to do. They have to tell you what part of the "functional check" failed. Does it specify on you test?
here is something I copied and pasted
OBDII "Readiness Flags" Test: Your 1996 and newer car, truck, van, SUV, or motorhome will not pass the smog test if certain "readiness flags" are not set. Some "check engine" related failures don't illuminate the check engine light, but do cause smog check failures. These faults are referred to as "readiness flag" faults. Readiness flags indicate that certain emissions systems which the OBD II computer has been monitoring have passed internal self monitoring tests, indicating that those systems are working properly. If the smog machine detects that there are certain readiness flags which have not set, the data will be relayed to the smog machine and your vehicle will fail the smog test.
In order to set all the proper Readiness Flags the OBDII system must complete at least one good drive cycle (in some cases two or three). A good drive cycle is a sequence of passing internal tests which the OBDII computer runs while your vehicle is being driven. This insures all emissions systems are functioning properly. A drive cycle usually requires one to two weeks of ordinary everyday driving.
1. Engine Ignition Timing Not checked on your car because it is done by the computer
2. Check Engine Light
3. Gas Cap & Filler Neck
4. Exhaust Recirculation Valve (EGR)
5. Fuel EVAP Test (LPFET)
I suspect you failed 2. because you either had a code and a light or the computer did not complete all readiness tests yet. IE you cannot just clear the codes and run in to do the smog, the computer must do all the test to make sure the car is ready to go. This can take 40-600 miles to do. They have to tell you what part of the "functional check" failed. Does it specify on you test?
here is something I copied and pasted
OBDII "Readiness Flags" Test: Your 1996 and newer car, truck, van, SUV, or motorhome will not pass the smog test if certain "readiness flags" are not set. Some "check engine" related failures don't illuminate the check engine light, but do cause smog check failures. These faults are referred to as "readiness flag" faults. Readiness flags indicate that certain emissions systems which the OBD II computer has been monitoring have passed internal self monitoring tests, indicating that those systems are working properly. If the smog machine detects that there are certain readiness flags which have not set, the data will be relayed to the smog machine and your vehicle will fail the smog test.
In order to set all the proper Readiness Flags the OBDII system must complete at least one good drive cycle (in some cases two or three). A good drive cycle is a sequence of passing internal tests which the OBDII computer runs while your vehicle is being driven. This insures all emissions systems are functioning properly. A drive cycle usually requires one to two weeks of ordinary everyday driving.
04-19-2012, 08:00 AM
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The correct thing is to fix the issue at hand which is fixing the reason why the light goes on.
There is no tool that I'm aware of to force the test. Is there a way to cheat the system? Well kind of but it is only until the computer runs the test again and then the code may pop up.
Basically start the car warm it up a little go for a drive the will not go over 55 and has spells where the car is between 35 and 45. have your code reader with you and check on the status of the readiness codes. when all are done do not shut car off, drive directly to the smog station and smog.
There is no tool that I'm aware of to force the test. Is there a way to cheat the system? Well kind of but it is only until the computer runs the test again and then the code may pop up.
Basically start the car warm it up a little go for a drive the will not go over 55 and has spells where the car is between 35 and 45. have your code reader with you and check on the status of the readiness codes. when all are done do not shut car off, drive directly to the smog station and smog.
04-19-2012, 08:58 AM
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Allen,
Sorry if my questions sound stupid...
Regarding to the captioned below, are you saying don't go over 55 mph and maintain speed between 35 and 45mph before going to the Smog Test Station?
My Bavarian Code Reader/Resetter only allow me to read codes and reset it. My code reader only displays the code(s) if there is a problem. If there are no code(s), does that mean the car is ready (what you referred as readiness codes) for the smog test?
When you said "check on the status of readiness codes", what does that mean??? Which tool(s) can literally states or implies per se?
The same code that constantly came up prior to the smog test was 29D0(misfire detection cylinder 4 in 3.ignition sequence). I have replaced all six spark plugs and two new igntion coils for cylinder 4 and 3. I even interchanged them around; and with the other spare coils. Man, I wish the fix can just be as simple as changing new spark plugs or coils! In the meanwhile, I will heed your advice and drive 60 to 600 miles to allow the OBDII computer to clear up whatever it is...
Again, thank you very much for your time!!!
Basically start the car warm it up a little go for a drive the will not go over 55 and has spells where the car is between 35 and 45. have your code reader with you and check on the status of the readiness codes. when all are done do not shut car off, drive directly to the smog station and smog.
[/quote]
Sorry if my questions sound stupid...
Regarding to the captioned below, are you saying don't go over 55 mph and maintain speed between 35 and 45mph before going to the Smog Test Station?
My Bavarian Code Reader/Resetter only allow me to read codes and reset it. My code reader only displays the code(s) if there is a problem. If there are no code(s), does that mean the car is ready (what you referred as readiness codes) for the smog test?
When you said "check on the status of readiness codes", what does that mean??? Which tool(s) can literally states or implies per se?
The same code that constantly came up prior to the smog test was 29D0(misfire detection cylinder 4 in 3.ignition sequence). I have replaced all six spark plugs and two new igntion coils for cylinder 4 and 3. I even interchanged them around; and with the other spare coils. Man, I wish the fix can just be as simple as changing new spark plugs or coils! In the meanwhile, I will heed your advice and drive 60 to 600 miles to allow the OBDII computer to clear up whatever it is...
Again, thank you very much for your time!!!
Basically start the car warm it up a little go for a drive the will not go over 55 and has spells where the car is between 35 and 45. have your code reader with you and check on the status of the readiness codes. when all are done do not shut car off, drive directly to the smog station and smog.
[/quote]
04-19-2012, 11:02 AM
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I misplaced my code reader but it has a section where the readiness test are shown and it will either say they are performed or have not been performed and have or have not passed them. If they say all test have been performed and there is no check engine light you can take the smog test.
Some of the test are things like O2 heater test, air pump test, cylinder misfire test, Catalyst monitor (basically reading the secondary O2 sensor), evap system test, etc.
None of the test are performed at full throttle, none are done above 55 mph, some are done at 35 and 45 mph, a couple are performed as the motor warms up from a cold start, so don't reset on a warm car and hope to get all the tests performed in 50 miles of straight driving as part of the test include a warm up.
Some of the test are things like O2 heater test, air pump test, cylinder misfire test, Catalyst monitor (basically reading the secondary O2 sensor), evap system test, etc.
None of the test are performed at full throttle, none are done above 55 mph, some are done at 35 and 45 mph, a couple are performed as the motor warms up from a cold start, so don't reset on a warm car and hope to get all the tests performed in 50 miles of straight driving as part of the test include a warm up.
04-19-2012, 12:37 PM
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Thanks, Allen
That sounds like a good tool to own. If I had known about it, I should have bought that instead...
I bought mine from this website: http://www.bavauto.com/shop.asp
It's called Bavarian Autosport Engine Fault Code Reader/ Reset Tool - OBDII - fits most BMW's 2001-2007
Since I have the aforementioned tool already, can you or anyone recommend another reliable diagnostic tool that I should have? Please provide link of vendor.
Thank you in advance.
That sounds like a good tool to own. If I had known about it, I should have bought that instead...
I bought mine from this website: http://www.bavauto.com/shop.asp
It's called Bavarian Autosport Engine Fault Code Reader/ Reset Tool - OBDII - fits most BMW's 2001-2007
Since I have the aforementioned tool already, can you or anyone recommend another reliable diagnostic tool that I should have? Please provide link of vendor.
Thank you in advance.
04-19-2012, 02:39 PM
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This is the Cheap unit I use when I cannot find the good unit.
If you have a iphone or a android phone you download 'Torque'
Now with this little pocket Bluetooth you can read DTCs just don't forget to remove the unit as it will drain the battery!
Note two readiness test have not been performed yet. the Air pump test on this car normally happens on the first cold start up.
If you have a iphone or a android phone you download 'Torque'
Now with this little pocket Bluetooth you can read DTCs just don't forget to remove the unit as it will drain the battery!
Note two readiness test have not been performed yet. the Air pump test on this car normally happens on the first cold start up.