Sealing Sleeve or Mechatronic Unit Replacement Tips
07-31-2012, 01:07 AM
#1
Members
Thread Starter
I couldn't find all the info i needed in one place so i figured i would put a few tips together. I have nothing to do with any company here, BMW, or any other affiliation. Use at your own risk.
Symptoms:
Erratic shifting or bumping in one or more gears in any range, any speed, any throttle.
Preliminary:
(1) Check for leaks at the pan and sealing sleeve (where electrical connector is at back of transmission)
(2) Change fluid and pan with integrated filter and see if it corrects issue.
(3) Have software updated at BMW, etc under SI B 24 03 09 or similar for your specific model.
(4) BMW may recommend 2-1 Tip in. Start car out in 2nd rather than first. I opted not to perform this. Its not a real fix, its a bandaid.
(5) At this point if all has been unsuccessful it is time to look at swapping the Mechatronic unit. A DIY is available
Choosing DIY or not:
This is a very expensive repair at BMW, around $5000+. Slightly cheaper at an Indy. This is a reasonable DIY that with patience i believe anyone that can turn a wrench can do.
Ok im ready to DIY!
I have looked around everywhere and the cheapest place by far i found is The CTSC They are a little slow getting back and there is no phone to contact them, but patience will save you big $. Choose the correct model for your car or email them for assistance. There is a core charge.
What the heck am i getting?
I wondered this myself and as it turns out it is a genuine ZF factory rebuilt mechatronic unit. Yeah!! You even have to ship your core directly back to ZF.
What do i do until i get my part?
It will be to you lightning fast so use this time to get your car up in the air and pull the old Mechatronic unit out. Study the PDF from thectsc on installation.
Ok im lazy, just tell me. (messy messy messy job)
- Drain trans fluid, leave bucket under drain.
- Unscrew all pan screws except for 2 located on either side of the pan closest to the front of the pan (opposite side of pan than drain). Slowly unscrew these 2 until the pan is at a good angle downward and leave it there for several hours to drain.
- Remove the bucket and put a huge pan underneath to catch all the mess.
Ok lets get down to business!
- Pull down on white locking tab inside rear of trans housing to release the sealing sleeve.
- Take a big ash
screwdriver and gently unlock the external electrical connecter by prying up 1/8 turn and move out of the way.
- Now pry GENTLY on the sealing sleeve away from trans with screwdriver and it should pop out. Route it around the side and by the heat shield. It will go though it is tight.
Time to remove the Mechatronic unit. (don't remove exhaust,etc)
- Follow CTSC PDF instructions on what screws to release, Ebrake, etc.
- Once you get down to the last 2 screws hold it up with one had and release the last 2. It will come straight down out of transmission.
- Place it on pan and leave it for a while. The trans will drain again with the mecho unit.
- Remove the double seal that is in the front of the trans. It is 2 squares and will easily come off.
Wow this is a big box!
- Unpack the box and be careful not to bang the unit or touch the electrical connector pins.
- Clean your old mecho unit and repack it and send it on its way.
I want my car back, i miss her
- Lube the new square seals and put them up in the transmission. They are keyed and can only go in one way. They will stay up there.
- Get 2 screws ready and pull white locking tab down on mecho unit. also remove protective cap on electrical connector.
- Push mecho unit carefully up in place and wiggle slightly until it seats. Take care to align the gear selector in the proper groove as explained in the PDF. Place 2 screws at either end of center of unit and hand tighten.
- Put all screws in hand tight then follow PDF instructions for tightening.
Final lap (always the trickiest)
- Lube o-rings on sealing sleeve and route back up into area with thinner part towards trans and key down. Rotate until it feeds into hole and push with hands.
- Now grab a soft handled dead blow hammer or similar and provide gentle pressure against the sealing sleeve until the white locking tab will slide up without much force. It is locked in place until you provide pressure against it with the sealing sleeve. Do not force it.
- Lube o-ring on tube sticking up from pan filter and guide into hole in front of trans. Install screws as per PDF.
One last thing! Fluid...
- Make sure the car is level first.
- Fill the car as per TIS instructions and monitor the temperature.
- I have had good luck with filling a 5 gallon bucket with 7 liters of fluid and placing under the fill hole. When it spill out it will go right back in the bucket.
- I fill the trans pan, start the car for 10 seconds and repeat until it wont take any more without running constantly.
- Turn off traction control and cycle through all gears several times.
- Now if you are in proper filling temp range finish filling it until it spills out and that is usually it.
- Put your fill plug back in and you are good as golden.
Symptoms:
Erratic shifting or bumping in one or more gears in any range, any speed, any throttle.
Preliminary:
(1) Check for leaks at the pan and sealing sleeve (where electrical connector is at back of transmission)
(2) Change fluid and pan with integrated filter and see if it corrects issue.
(3) Have software updated at BMW, etc under SI B 24 03 09 or similar for your specific model.
(4) BMW may recommend 2-1 Tip in. Start car out in 2nd rather than first. I opted not to perform this. Its not a real fix, its a bandaid.
(5) At this point if all has been unsuccessful it is time to look at swapping the Mechatronic unit. A DIY is available
Choosing DIY or not:
This is a very expensive repair at BMW, around $5000+. Slightly cheaper at an Indy. This is a reasonable DIY that with patience i believe anyone that can turn a wrench can do.
Ok im ready to DIY!
I have looked around everywhere and the cheapest place by far i found is The CTSC They are a little slow getting back and there is no phone to contact them, but patience will save you big $. Choose the correct model for your car or email them for assistance. There is a core charge.
What the heck am i getting?
I wondered this myself and as it turns out it is a genuine ZF factory rebuilt mechatronic unit. Yeah!! You even have to ship your core directly back to ZF.
What do i do until i get my part?
It will be to you lightning fast so use this time to get your car up in the air and pull the old Mechatronic unit out. Study the PDF from thectsc on installation.
Ok im lazy, just tell me. (messy messy messy job)
- Drain trans fluid, leave bucket under drain.
- Unscrew all pan screws except for 2 located on either side of the pan closest to the front of the pan (opposite side of pan than drain). Slowly unscrew these 2 until the pan is at a good angle downward and leave it there for several hours to drain.
- Remove the bucket and put a huge pan underneath to catch all the mess.
Ok lets get down to business!
- Pull down on white locking tab inside rear of trans housing to release the sealing sleeve.
- Take a big ash
screwdriver and gently unlock the external electrical connecter by prying up 1/8 turn and move out of the way. - Now pry GENTLY on the sealing sleeve away from trans with screwdriver and it should pop out. Route it around the side and by the heat shield. It will go though it is tight.
Time to remove the Mechatronic unit. (don't remove exhaust,etc)
- Follow CTSC PDF instructions on what screws to release, Ebrake, etc.
- Once you get down to the last 2 screws hold it up with one had and release the last 2. It will come straight down out of transmission.
- Place it on pan and leave it for a while. The trans will drain again with the mecho unit.
- Remove the double seal that is in the front of the trans. It is 2 squares and will easily come off.
Wow this is a big box!
- Unpack the box and be careful not to bang the unit or touch the electrical connector pins.
- Clean your old mecho unit and repack it and send it on its way.
I want my car back, i miss her
- Lube the new square seals and put them up in the transmission. They are keyed and can only go in one way. They will stay up there.
- Get 2 screws ready and pull white locking tab down on mecho unit. also remove protective cap on electrical connector.
- Push mecho unit carefully up in place and wiggle slightly until it seats. Take care to align the gear selector in the proper groove as explained in the PDF. Place 2 screws at either end of center of unit and hand tighten.
- Put all screws in hand tight then follow PDF instructions for tightening.
Final lap (always the trickiest)
- Lube o-rings on sealing sleeve and route back up into area with thinner part towards trans and key down. Rotate until it feeds into hole and push with hands.
- Now grab a soft handled dead blow hammer or similar and provide gentle pressure against the sealing sleeve until the white locking tab will slide up without much force. It is locked in place until you provide pressure against it with the sealing sleeve. Do not force it.
- Lube o-ring on tube sticking up from pan filter and guide into hole in front of trans. Install screws as per PDF.
One last thing! Fluid...
- Make sure the car is level first.
- Fill the car as per TIS instructions and monitor the temperature.
- I have had good luck with filling a 5 gallon bucket with 7 liters of fluid and placing under the fill hole. When it spill out it will go right back in the bucket.
- I fill the trans pan, start the car for 10 seconds and repeat until it wont take any more without running constantly.
- Turn off traction control and cycle through all gears several times.
- Now if you are in proper filling temp range finish filling it until it spills out and that is usually it.
- Put your fill plug back in and you are good as golden.
07-31-2012, 12:07 PM
#4
Members
Thread Starter
Additional Info :
(1) The Mecho unit will come coded to your car, you just have to supply the VIN when you purchase.
(2) You do not need to remove the Mecho unit to replace the sleeve. You simply use the applicable info minus the physical removal of the Mecho unit.
(1) The Mecho unit will come coded to your car, you just have to supply the VIN when you purchase.
(2) You do not need to remove the Mecho unit to replace the sleeve. You simply use the applicable info minus the physical removal of the Mecho unit.
08-03-2012, 11:09 AM
#6
Members
Thread Starter
A i come across more items i will do some write-ups. I don't see a fraction for the support available to the E39 forum. As these cars are coming due for maintenance it is time for this.
08-13-2012, 12:14 PM
#7
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Location: Philadelphia, Pa
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hey all I just had my 06 530xi in for new plugs and coils, I'm at 92k and what a difference it made. Second time dealing with this indy. Comes off off a great referral. Only works on bimmers and benzes. After looking over my car after the service he suggested having the trans serviced. I've searched the forums and pretty much have an idea what the going rate is and time involved. However he says his service requires removing the exhaust and replacing a certain part of the trans, as well as the fluid flush, pan and filter, and the diff, and charges $1600. He says its a $900 part but I can't think of what he stated it was. Can someone help me make sense of this. I mean it sure beats $6-7k for a new one down the road. I have no problem paying $500-$600 but this seems outrageous. Am I missing something here. Also this is just what he suggested, he did state there were no leaks at all and trans is shifting perfectly smooth
08-13-2012, 11:37 PM
#8
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Thread Starter
hey all I just had my 06 530xi in for new plugs and coils, I'm at 92k and what a difference it made. Second time dealing with this indy. Comes off off a great referral. Only works on bimmers and benzes. After looking over my car after the service he suggested having the trans serviced. I've searched the forums and pretty much have an idea what the going rate is and time involved. However he says his service requires removing the exhaust and replacing a certain part of the trans, as well as the fluid flush, pan and filter, and the diff, and charges $1600. He says its a $900 part but I can't think of what he stated it was. Can someone help me make sense of this. I mean it sure beats $6-7k for a new one down the road. I have no problem paying $500-$600 but this seems outrageous. Am I missing something here. Also this is just what he suggested, he did state there were no leaks at all and trans is shifting perfectly smooth
FYI you didnt need coils. Just plugs.
08-14-2012, 12:07 PM
#10
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What he is likely talking about is indeed the Mechatronic sleeve, Pan (filter) and new fluid. The fluid is pretty expensive but all that costs around 450-500 plus labor. Most of this requires removing the exhaust. Even though you can get around it they charge for what the book says. The transmission is your life blood. So i would talk to him and work something out. Have him explain what parts are getting replaced and itemized estimate.
FYI you didnt need coils. Just plugs.
FYI you didnt need coils. Just plugs.