dawid_w

OK, I have a question - How did they find oil stuck in the catalytic converter for $120 diagnostic fee?
Did they remove the whole exhaust system? You could try to take the O2 sensor and put the video scope inside, but that will cost more than $120
This sounds like a big BS... Change the dealer or go to independent shop.

BTW
How many miles do you have on the car?

Did you try to turn off the A\C and run it then. Bad A\C compressor can cause rough idle.

But first thing first ? replace spark plugs, check\replace coils and clean MAF sensor

Check also throttle body (is it dirty, does it open normally) ? very easy to check (15 min or less)

turboawd

maybe the tech just took out an oxygen sensor to inspect it. if the sensor had oil residue on it, then more than likely the catalytic convertor did too. and driving the car hard will heat up the exhaust more to help burn off the oil.

dawid_w

YesYes, you are right. Did you try to replace the oxygen sensors on your 550i? It is a pain! My point is that it is very doubtful that dealer did that for standard troubleshooting fee. OK, if they did that - why they didn't explain where the oil came from? It is not normal to find oil in your exhaust system (doesn't matter if you drive soft or hard).
Another thing - which catalytic converter had oil in it? Both of them? Was it oil only or oil and gasoline (indication that on or more cylinders have misfire or not spark at all). If there is oil in the intake and both catalytic converters why they didn?t inspect valve cover vent pipes (maybe oil is coming from valve covers to intake and from there to cylinders and exhaust system).
Did they find any errors from camshaft sensors (I would suspect exhaust sensor).

My point is: why the dealer didn?t find the source of the problem but just the resulting damages. You will buy 2 new catalytic converters and 2 weeks later they will be full of oil also.

turboawd

well the original poster did say that he had his crankcase valves replaced. maybe he was getting excessive blow-by gasses and oil mist going into his intake.

dawid_w

I would recommend going to AutoZone and read all the codes again (for free). You could also check the crankshaft ventilation pipes and see if there is oil inside and how much. Those pipes crack very easy being 5-6 years old so look for damages.

see the link

http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...59&hg=11&fg=15

This is easy troubleshooting and it shouldn't take much effort.

blackonblack

I have tried googling to see if my car has an IAC or TPS, and I wasn't able to find much information about it. As far as I can tell, it doesn't have an IAC or TPS.

blackonblack

I have already changed the spark plugs.

blackonblack

I don't think they did all that to tell that there was oil stuck in the catalytic converter because $120 is the fee per Hour.

The car has around 80,000 miles on it.

I have not tried turning on the A/C, I will try the next time it's rough idling.

I will check the throttle body. I found this guide for an e60 M5 but I am assuming it will be similiar : http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e60...ng-images.html

Spark plugs have been replaced, I will check the coils, and I will clean the MAF sensor. I found a guide for the n52 engine, but I haven't been able to find any guides on the n62 (mine) engine. Thanks for your help!

blackonblack

I am not sure exactly how they found it but they are saying it's leaking from the intake and getting into the exhaust.
At first they had me replace the crankcase valve, and they are claiming that the oil starting leaking because the crankcase pressure was too high.

blackonblack

Thanks for everyone's help, I really appreciate it. Dawid I will be trying out your tips and let you know the result.
Is there an easy way for me to check if there is oil in the catalytic converters? I have been driving at high RPMs for a month now and the check engine light has still stayed on.

I asked the dealership for the codes, and this is what they are:

27d5: Idle speed control
27b8: Differential pressure sensor / intake manifold
2738: Catalytic converter bank 1
273d: Catalytic converter bank 2


Also, these are some of the notes the dealership gave me on the car:

"Idle control fault set 84 times"

"Fuel trim and 02 Sensor Control OK"

"No vacuum leaks found"

"Air flow sensor reading OK"

"Followed tests for the throttle actuator and lead to replacing actuator due to jamming or sensors reading wrong at one time - Operating OK now:

"Intake pressure sensor fault stored, lead to a faulty sensor. Reading not changing."

"Found oil in the intake and sensor probably from leaking crankcase valve. Crankcase vacuum/pressure OK now. Test plan advised a new sensor"

"Catalist conversion codes for bank 1 and bank 2 appeared. Followed test plan, fuel control OK. Bank 1 failed the test plan. Advised replacing due to fault count"


Also it says the idle and fuel control issues are "probably caused by the oil in the intake and gettung into the exhaust.