Rough idle on 545i, dealership hasn't helped. Please help!
03-24-2011, 11:29 PM
#1
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My e60 has been really frustrating lately, and any help would be greatly appreciated.
Summary:
545i, check engine light, rough idle.
Dealership said it was my crankcase control valves.
I replaced crankcase control valves, problem persisted.
Dealership said that there is oil stuck in catalytic converter, and to drive at high RPMs for long periods of time. The problem is still there, looking for any help or ideas.
Long version:
My 545i developed some problems, which included a very rough idle with the RPM jumping around. There was also a rattling sound at low RPMs. You can hear the sound in this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M0TwwdIyouI#t=0m56s (I was playing with the gas to lower the RPM), and you can also hear it when the car shuts off http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M0TwwdIyouI#t=1m30s .
I got a free diagnostics scan for my check engine light, it indicated that it was the idle air control valve, but as far as I know 545i?s don?t have an idle air control valve.
I took it to BMW, they said the engine sounded fine, and that my crankcase control valves needed to be replaced. I bought and replaced the 2 valves (the ones that I removed from the car looked like they had nothing wrong with them at all). The problem still persisted, so I took it back to BMW. They made me pay for another diagnostics fee ~$120.00 , and told me that I didn?t put the caps on tight when I replaced the valves. They also told me there was a catalytic converter fault, but the catalytic converter was fine and not to worry about it. Sure enough, 1 day after I got the car back, the rough idle and the check engine light came on again. The 3rd time I took it back they told me that there is oil stuck in the catalytic converter and throttle body, and they told me to drive the car at high RPMs for long periods of time so that the oil gets burned out. After a few weeks of driving at high RPMs, this has done nothing. They said if I didn?t burn the oil out the converter would need to be replaced ( cost $4,200 )
Can anyone give me any advice on what I should do or what the actual problem could be?
Summary:
545i, check engine light, rough idle.
Dealership said it was my crankcase control valves.
I replaced crankcase control valves, problem persisted.
Dealership said that there is oil stuck in catalytic converter, and to drive at high RPMs for long periods of time. The problem is still there, looking for any help or ideas.
Long version:
My 545i developed some problems, which included a very rough idle with the RPM jumping around. There was also a rattling sound at low RPMs. You can hear the sound in this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M0TwwdIyouI#t=0m56s (I was playing with the gas to lower the RPM), and you can also hear it when the car shuts off http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M0TwwdIyouI#t=1m30s .
I got a free diagnostics scan for my check engine light, it indicated that it was the idle air control valve, but as far as I know 545i?s don?t have an idle air control valve.
I took it to BMW, they said the engine sounded fine, and that my crankcase control valves needed to be replaced. I bought and replaced the 2 valves (the ones that I removed from the car looked like they had nothing wrong with them at all). The problem still persisted, so I took it back to BMW. They made me pay for another diagnostics fee ~$120.00 , and told me that I didn?t put the caps on tight when I replaced the valves. They also told me there was a catalytic converter fault, but the catalytic converter was fine and not to worry about it. Sure enough, 1 day after I got the car back, the rough idle and the check engine light came on again. The 3rd time I took it back they told me that there is oil stuck in the catalytic converter and throttle body, and they told me to drive the car at high RPMs for long periods of time so that the oil gets burned out. After a few weeks of driving at high RPMs, this has done nothing. They said if I didn?t burn the oil out the converter would need to be replaced ( cost $4,200 )
Can anyone give me any advice on what I should do or what the actual problem could be?
03-25-2011, 08:27 AM
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My Ride: Jet Black '05 545i, Sport/Premium Pkg, Steptronic, Adaptive Xenon, Nav, L7, Blue2th, PDC,
have your dealer check the ignition coils, one (or possibly two) may be misfiring or not firing at all. Check the connection to the coil and make sure they're firmly connected. good luck
03-25-2011, 10:09 AM
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i had the same unstable idle in my old e39 530i, was due to bad spark plugs, replaced them all and ran fine after.
03-25-2011, 10:54 AM
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My Ride: 535xi Sport
Model Year: 2009
If the coils were acting up you'd get a misfire code when you read codes. Coils also tend to be very intermittant, meaning fine one minute, puke blood and die the next, but then go back to working fine even though the CEL is still illuminated.
The E39 540i guys have complained about symptoms like this and for most the MAF was either dirty or dying. Then the engine tries to work off bad data, the post-cat o2 sensors go berzerk (technical term) and you get a code. I don't know much about V8 VANOS but that's something that it could be as well.
Find someone with an AutoEnginutiy scan tool and run some diagnostics. It will show you the VANOS positions (requested vs. actual) and MAF sensor real-time readings. You can also disconnect the wire harness from the MAF while it's running and see what happens. If it instantly starts to run better, it's a good place to start (clean it with MAF sensor cleaner - nothing else from what I'm told).
The AE tool is your friend. Find someone with one....bring beer.
The E39 540i guys have complained about symptoms like this and for most the MAF was either dirty or dying. Then the engine tries to work off bad data, the post-cat o2 sensors go berzerk (technical term) and you get a code. I don't know much about V8 VANOS but that's something that it could be as well.
Find someone with an AutoEnginutiy scan tool and run some diagnostics. It will show you the VANOS positions (requested vs. actual) and MAF sensor real-time readings. You can also disconnect the wire harness from the MAF while it's running and see what happens. If it instantly starts to run better, it's a good place to start (clean it with MAF sensor cleaner - nothing else from what I'm told).
The AE tool is your friend. Find someone with one....bring beer.
04-16-2011, 10:25 AM
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My Ride: 545i sport
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When I got my 545, it had a poor idle. Turned out to be a faulty alternator with bad rectifier?go figure. Not putting the crankcase vent covers on tight enough is easy to do. You think they are on tight, but no. Really have to push on with a lot of force.
04-19-2011, 07:55 AM
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My 550 idles hard as well, and the dealer keeps telling me they can't replicate the problem. I'm saying to myself you mofos, how hard is it to replicate the problem when all you have to do is push the start button. 