Replacing sunroof seal via SIB.. Upgrade via ISTA needed?
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So my car has always had sunroof wind noise, and I thought now was the time to change it, since its so cheap and the DIY is pretty easy.
Reading the SIB, it seems you have to replace the rubber seal with a updated part, re-initialize the sunroof via holding the button up for 15 seconds, and then the SIB says to Program the car using ISTA/P 2.31.2 or later. This is for E60's up to 11/2008.
The Programming, is for some cars that may require the coding to avoid the anti-trap protection from being activated when there is no obstruction.
It also notes, that ISTA/P will reprogram and code all modules that are not up to date. My car has been into the dealer a bunch of times since the SIB was released, but I have no idea if the ISTA/P has been updated.
Anyone know if this programming is really necessary?
Reading the SIB, it seems you have to replace the rubber seal with a updated part, re-initialize the sunroof via holding the button up for 15 seconds, and then the SIB says to Program the car using ISTA/P 2.31.2 or later. This is for E60's up to 11/2008.
The Programming, is for some cars that may require the coding to avoid the anti-trap protection from being activated when there is no obstruction.
It also notes, that ISTA/P will reprogram and code all modules that are not up to date. My car has been into the dealer a bunch of times since the SIB was released, but I have no idea if the ISTA/P has been updated.
Anyone know if this programming is really necessary?
#2
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ISTA/P is the dealers system for programming your car. What it means is your car needs to be up to at least the level of software that includes this updated code for that particular module. So if your car has been programmed after the date given, its likely ok. Then you can initialize your sunroof and all is good.
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ISTA/P is the dealers system for programming your car. What it means is your car needs to be up to at least the level of software that includes this updated code for that particular module. So if your car has been programmed after the date given, its likely ok. Then you can initialize your sunroof and all is good.
It was at the dealer a few times this year aswell.. Im guessing if I do the new updated seal, and do the re-instilization, the only way I would know if I need the programming is if the sunroof keeps stopping unexpectly, which would mean the anti-trap is activating for no reason and it needs programming to fix.
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I have and 05 Sport.545. I too discovered that there was a fair amount wind noise from the roof when the shade was pulled back
Following the directions that I discovered on this forum. I replaced the rubber seal after tediously working to get the old one off. After installation, I did the reset. The first time I did it the glass STOPPED in the NO TRAP position. I determined that it happened because the new seal was tighter. I did the process a second time with NO PROBLEM.
I am writing the above because the vehicle is an 05 and to the best of my knowledge the programs are not up to 2008 or later. Do it NO fear and you won't have to bail water from your trunk.
Following the directions that I discovered on this forum. I replaced the rubber seal after tediously working to get the old one off. After installation, I did the reset. The first time I did it the glass STOPPED in the NO TRAP position. I determined that it happened because the new seal was tighter. I did the process a second time with NO PROBLEM.
I am writing the above because the vehicle is an 05 and to the best of my knowledge the programs are not up to 2008 or later. Do it NO fear and you won't have to bail water from your trunk.
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lumi, just run through the initialization before you install, and if it works now it should work after installing the new seal, unless you end up with a too tight installation needing adjustment. Worst case scenario would require you to close the sunroof manually with the hex key from the trunk lid compartment and a trip to your dealer / mechanic.
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I have and 05 Sport.545. I too discovered that there was a fair amount wind noise from the roof when the shade was pulled back
Following the directions that I discovered on this forum. I replaced the rubber seal after tediously working to get the old one off. After installation, I did the reset. The first time I did it the glass STOPPED in the NO TRAP position. I determined that it happened because the new seal was tighter. I did the process a second time with NO PROBLEM.
I am writing the above because the vehicle is an 05 and to the best of my knowledge the programs are not up to 2008 or later. Do it NO fear and you won't have to bail water from your trunk.
Following the directions that I discovered on this forum. I replaced the rubber seal after tediously working to get the old one off. After installation, I did the reset. The first time I did it the glass STOPPED in the NO TRAP position. I determined that it happened because the new seal was tighter. I did the process a second time with NO PROBLEM.
I am writing the above because the vehicle is an 05 and to the best of my knowledge the programs are not up to 2008 or later. Do it NO fear and you won't have to bail water from your trunk.
lumi, just run through the initialization before you install, and if it works now it should work after installing the new seal, unless you end up with a too tight installation needing adjustment. Worst case scenario would require you to close the sunroof manually with the hex key from the trunk lid compartment and a trip to your dealer / mechanic.
The rubber seal for me is a two part, to get rid of the wind noise, and also make sure no water is getting by, not that is a big deal since there are drains, but I don't wanter dirt and debris getting by and building up casuing draining issues.
This morning, I checked the two front and two rear sunroof drains by using a turkey baster, filling it with water and independently shooting water into each of the 4 drain holes in the sunroof (opened) All of them shot water out 100% nice and cleanly. Two front drains in the sunroof, come out by the front door hinges, small rubber tubes, the two rear comes out two separate hoses weirdly placed in the bottom back of the car.
Also checked the door/window drains by opening the doors and shooting water at the bottom of the window seals. There are two drains per door, at the corners of the doors.
Those also checked out and drained perfectly.
I never knew the doors themselves had drains. If the drains get clogged, the water starts backing up into the doors. So not a good thing, good to check if the drains on the doors are clean.
And of course, remove the whole cowl under the hood and cleaned and checked the front drains, those aswell checked out.
The rear taillights had some gunk from where the water slides down from the rear window, cleaned it up, blasted it with water and the water came out the bottom nicely!
Good to check every now and then all the drains, doesn't take more than 15 mins.
And always important to try to keep the car clean and these specific places clean aswell.
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You might want to check your front and rear window closeout seals. They are probably due for changing. You can take your finger and rub the seal and if you notice black coming off it's about time. From that point, its not long until you rub it and pieces of rubber actually comes off. Thats the same for the front. The rear seal is very easy to change and will take just a few minutes. The front is a bit of a pain I hear. I replace all of mine, except for the front. Just kept putting that one and then a rock attacked my windshield so had it replaced along with the seal. The seals don't actually seal for water but they do play a part in the entire water egress system.
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