Repair deep scratch down to bare metal
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So yesterday I was parallel parking and backed up to far, hitting the car behind me. The car behind me was fine but the screw from its front license plate made a huge scratch in my car, very deep. I got a quote from a body shop for $700 which I find ridiculous. I was wondering if I could do it myself with some bondo, clear coat, base coat, and touch up paint. Also, how long do I have before it rusts up?
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What is this? Sounds like it would be your bumper and if so, this will not rust because it's not metal. If this is metal above or around your bumper I would assume there is a little more damage than what is there. Meaning the actual circular damage but you may also have the body panel pushed in a little which would require a larger repair. It's really had to see from the photo that you posted. Perhaps take a second quote and don't mention the first one to the second shop. If they are similar then more than likely the price is accurate. If you don't want to spend this amount then get you a little bottle of primer with a touchup brush, paint that matches and clear. If this is on your bumper you can omit the primer since this is not metal. As for rusting if it is metal, well that depends on where you live and the climate. It could start in a few days to a few months.
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If you want that scratch to 100% disappear, I suggest a pro do it. Call around at Indy shops and find out who they recommend.
If you don't mind the remnants of the scratch being visible but at least color matched, do this:
You MUST buy one of these: Wurth Quality Spot Sanding Pen
You MUST buy the BMW touchup paint kit for your vehicle based on the VIN number.
Keep a damp small piece of scrap cloth (4" square) nearby.
Begin by using your scratch pen to get down to the base material (plastic or metal) within the area that has been scratched. The appearance within the scratch should be uniform (bare steel/aluminum or plastic).
Blow it out with compressed to remove most of the dust. Then wipe clean with the slightly damp cloth.
Then shake the paint stick for over 60 seconds. Shake it a lot and for a long time.
Now begin to apply the paint
Do not hold the included paint brush with a globule of paint about to fall off of the tip. (Too much)
Then apply a very thin line of the paint in thin layers with the attached brush.
Move continuously and slowly within the scratch one layer at a time until you have full paint coverage. (Don't go back and forth with the brush simply move in one direction).
Allow to dry and follow with the clear coat in the same manner as the paint.
If you don't mind the remnants of the scratch being visible but at least color matched, do this:
You MUST buy one of these: Wurth Quality Spot Sanding Pen
You MUST buy the BMW touchup paint kit for your vehicle based on the VIN number.
Keep a damp small piece of scrap cloth (4" square) nearby.
Begin by using your scratch pen to get down to the base material (plastic or metal) within the area that has been scratched. The appearance within the scratch should be uniform (bare steel/aluminum or plastic).
Blow it out with compressed to remove most of the dust. Then wipe clean with the slightly damp cloth.
Then shake the paint stick for over 60 seconds. Shake it a lot and for a long time.
Now begin to apply the paint
Do not hold the included paint brush with a globule of paint about to fall off of the tip. (Too much)
Then apply a very thin line of the paint in thin layers with the attached brush.
Move continuously and slowly within the scratch one layer at a time until you have full paint coverage. (Don't go back and forth with the brush simply move in one direction).
Allow to dry and follow with the clear coat in the same manner as the paint.
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The previous poster detailed a good suggestion. As for the bodyshop estimate - that's OUTASIGHT! If you want to go more professional route hunt down a professional detailer in your area. You want one with a very good record of touch-up repairs - usually done with an airbrush and careful spot blending.
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If you want that scratch to 100% disappear, I suggest a pro do it. Call around at Indy shops and find out who they recommend.
If you don't mind the remnants of the scratch being visible but at least color matched, do this:
You MUST buy one of these: Wurth Quality Spot Sanding Pen
You MUST buy the BMW touchup paint kit for your vehicle based on the VIN number.
Keep a damp small piece of scrap cloth (4" square) nearby.
Begin by using your scratch pen to get down to the base material (plastic or metal) within the area that has been scratched. The appearance within the scratch should be uniform (bare steel/aluminum or plastic).
Blow it out with compressed to remove most of the dust. Then wipe clean with the slightly damp cloth.
Then shake the paint stick for over 60 seconds. Shake it a lot and for a long time.
Now begin to apply the paint
Do not hold the included paint brush with a globule of paint about to fall off of the tip. (Too much)
Then apply a very thin line of the paint in thin layers with the attached brush.
Move continuously and slowly within the scratch one layer at a time until you have full paint coverage. (Don't go back and forth with the brush simply move in one direction).
Allow to dry and follow with the clear coat in the same manner as the paint.
If you don't mind the remnants of the scratch being visible but at least color matched, do this:
You MUST buy one of these: Wurth Quality Spot Sanding Pen
You MUST buy the BMW touchup paint kit for your vehicle based on the VIN number.
Keep a damp small piece of scrap cloth (4" square) nearby.
Begin by using your scratch pen to get down to the base material (plastic or metal) within the area that has been scratched. The appearance within the scratch should be uniform (bare steel/aluminum or plastic).
Blow it out with compressed to remove most of the dust. Then wipe clean with the slightly damp cloth.
Then shake the paint stick for over 60 seconds. Shake it a lot and for a long time.
Now begin to apply the paint
Do not hold the included paint brush with a globule of paint about to fall off of the tip. (Too much)
Then apply a very thin line of the paint in thin layers with the attached brush.
Move continuously and slowly within the scratch one layer at a time until you have full paint coverage. (Don't go back and forth with the brush simply move in one direction).
Allow to dry and follow with the clear coat in the same manner as the paint.
so no bondo? just paint? the scratch is fairly deep I'm not sure if just paint will fill it
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Body filler, sanding, priming, painting to obtain a 100% perfect finish is something I'd leave to a pro. If you've handled such work in the past, then go for it.
But sometimes, you just suck it up, and color match with the impression remaining Otherwise, things can get pretty ugly and you go from bad to worse.
Body filler will require sanding, priming and painting. Use 2000 grit sandpaper (wet) and try your damndest to prevent the wound from spreading. Not any easy task unless very experieinced. Put the 2000 grit on a sanding block and gently, slowly, work down the high points in the scratch. That's as far as I would attempt.
Once you get into spray painting, all bets are off on the finished product. Most future buyers (Not Carmax buyers) expect to see some dings in the bumpers as it's a sign of not being resprayed.
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It will not fill it, the above is only to obtain a lasting color match with the impression still intact.
Body filler, sanding, priming, painting to obtain a 100% perfect finish is something I'd leave to a pro. If you've handled such work in the past, then go for it.
Once you get into spray painting, all bets are off on the finished product. Most future buyers (Not Carmax buyers) expect to see some dings in the bumpers as it's a sign of not being resprayed.
Body filler, sanding, priming, painting to obtain a 100% perfect finish is something I'd leave to a pro. If you've handled such work in the past, then go for it.
Once you get into spray painting, all bets are off on the finished product. Most future buyers (Not Carmax buyers) expect to see some dings in the bumpers as it's a sign of not being resprayed.
Build up the paint ... slowly ... in thin layers - allowing some drying time between coats. When you think it's close let it dry thoroughly for several hours (or help it along with a hair drier). Then try some fine grit sand paper to very very lightly smooth it out and finish with a bit of polish and wax. What you'll have is a repair that may be noticeable at 5 feet but usually missed by the casual observer.
Try not to consider it damage - think of it as a beauty mark and it'll hurt a little less. It's like the first door ding - you know it'll happen but still hate it when it does.
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1. Whatever shop quoted you $700 is trying to rob you. That's at worst, a typical $350-400 bumper repair job.
2. It's plastic, won't rust.
3. If you attempt to 'spot repair' that area, you won't be happy with the results. Spotting in bumpers, or any panel for that matter, typically doesn't hold up over time.
4. When you do have it repaired, make CERTAIN that they repair and refinish the bumper cover OFF of the car.
good luck.
2. It's plastic, won't rust.
3. If you attempt to 'spot repair' that area, you won't be happy with the results. Spotting in bumpers, or any panel for that matter, typically doesn't hold up over time.
4. When you do have it repaired, make CERTAIN that they repair and refinish the bumper cover OFF of the car.
good luck.
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