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Rebuilding 6HP26 trans soon, 550i.

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Old 06-11-2013, 03:00 AM
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Originally Posted by turboawd
does the trans have to be dropped along with the engine to remove? almost requires a lift.
The coverings, exhaust, etc need to be removed. Tilt the trans down and there are a bunch of bolts in a tough area to get. Should be interesting since there is not allot of room to work with. Will take my time and see what pans out.

Would be easier to drop the engine as far as room but thats allot of work!
Old 06-11-2013, 05:09 AM
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That makes be believe an issue other than frictions or steels. If you go in, by all means replace the frictions, but steels will not be necessary. If you find anything wrong internally it will most likely be a broken drum, or o-ring problem (pressure bleed).
Old 01-08-2014, 01:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Only Bimmers
Well my trans has been acting up since i bought this car. Since i bought it with high mileage i knew i would be diving into this. Bought with 133k, now 137 after a year. already replaced Mechatronic unit, sealing sleeve, pan, fluid, and numerous reprograms.

As i have learned ZF basically stuffed a 6 speed into a 5 speed case. This made them develop smaller clutch packs. So they wear faster. The Ford 6R80 is an exact duplicate of this transmission, licensed from ZF, and available in the 2011+ mustang, trucks, and several other cars.

Interesting tear down video (Not Mine):
EXEDY Tech - Mustang 6R80 Auto Trans Rebuild Procedures - YouTube

I have started purchasing parts from the ctsc for the overhaul and will be ready within the next few months to tackle this. Crossing fingers.

Parts:
(1) New Mechatonic (Purchased)
1) Overhaul (seals) kit (Purchased)
(2) Fluid, pan/filter kit
(3) Clutches
(4) Steels
Did you already started the rebuild process? I'm considering the exedy st2 for my car. At 850nm it is way above the ZF rated 600nm. I also saw that vid and it looks easy to work on but we need the torque bolt values. Did you managed the 6hp26 manual?
Old 01-08-2014, 06:56 AM
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It took me all of 30 seconds to find the repair manual online. Bing turned up this link: http://www.scribd.com/doc/20322431/Repair-Manual


Don't let all the special tools and test rigs through you off. I made all my clutch piston spring compressors from items purchased at Home Depot. I also made the tool to lift the drums out and in the case (welding was required) by using a suitable metric bolt (head cut off) and steel rod (weld the two together). Just be creative. Keep things organized as you disassemble (i.e. don't mix up clutch pack pieces...keep them separated. Cleanliness, cleanliness, cleanliness.
Old 01-08-2014, 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by DavidF
It took me all of 30 seconds to find the repair manual online. Bing turned up this link: http://www.scribd.com/doc/20322431/Repair-Manual


Don't let all the special tools and test rigs through you off. I made all my clutch piston spring compressors from items purchased at Home Depot. I also made the tool to lift the drums out and in the case (welding was required) by using a suitable metric bolt (head cut off) and steel rod (weld the two together). Just be creative. Keep things organized as you disassemble (i.e. don't mix up clutch pack pieces...keep them separated. Cleanliness, cleanliness, cleanliness.
Thanks for the support.
Old 01-14-2014, 06:04 AM
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Gurus,
My BMW 550i E60 is cranking but not starting.
I diagnosed it and i has the following errors.
1. AOB8 Hall sensor start/stop button ,key engaged
2. AOB 2 suppy terminal 30E, 30
3. AOB6 selector-lever interlock

Basically i got the gearbox removed and put back and the car has:
1. not been able to engage the gear lever after its switched on and brake step on.
2. cranking but not starting..plugs not sparking either
3. key not engaging nicely.

Please help urgently.
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