amesser325

Hi,

My first throught is to make sure the valve cover gasket and oil filter housing gaskets are not leaking. Look for dampness on the head. I think the oil pan gasket can/does leak but i think it's a little more common for the VC gasket since you've got a lot more heat going on up top. I've now done 2 VC gaskets on cars that had "leaky oil pans" that turned out to be broken VC bolts.

BUT, if it is the oil pan gasket...

I suggest removing the subframe completely. The oil pan bolts are aluminum and require precise torque application, and limiting the wrench travel or visibility is opening yourself up for continued leaks. There's a reason the factory quoted time for oil pan gasket replacement is about 8-10 hrs (I can't remember exactly). To do this, you pretty much have to remove the control arms, tension links, spindles, brakes, etc. Again, pain in the ass but I think more of a pain to have to work around all that stuff if you left it in place.
So, I'd do the following:
-support the engine from above - cherry picker/engine support beam, etc attached via tow hook to the head. There is a tapped hole just to the left of the oil filter hsg where the tow hook threads in.
-remove wheels, rotors, wire up the calipers to the springs
-disconnect outer tie rod ends from spindles
-disconnect or remove front sway bar
-remove CA/tension struts from subframe (can leave on spindle side)
-remove spindles
-remove the stiffening plate
-loosen motor mount bolts
-remove front and rear 2 bolts of subframe
-loosen middle 2 bolts about an inch to begin to lower the SF

At this point you should be ready to remove the SF. It's best with 2 sets of hands but can be done by one person. I removed the steel SF by myself but only because I had to.
The SF is designed such that it is essentially slotted to slide rearward for removal without requiring complete bolt removal. This avoids the awkward dance of holding a wrench to release the last twist of the screw and having the SF fall on you.

Once removed, slide it forward (remember your P/S hoses are still attached to the rack) and set on the floor. You should have unfettered access to the oil pan at this point. Swap gasket, use new alu pan bolts, then assembly is the reverse. Now would also be a time to think about thermostat, hose, etc replacement as you will not have better access. This is less of an issue on the 2WD but the AWD subframe may as well be a sheet of metal that prevents any access. It's miserable for water pump replacement.

You shouldn't need to drain any fluids short of the oil.

Cheers!

E60I

Hi Andy,

I bet you are feeling great after completed such heavy tasks with your project! Again, congrats!!!

Thanks for taking the time to write down the instructions!

Must the rotors and spindles be removed from the car to remove the subframe?

What is a stiffening plate?

What is the torque spec for the oil pan bolts?

It sounds like I would have to disconnect everything that is connecting to the subframe, in order to have good clearance for the oil pan.

I going to have to go under the car and check out BMW Parts Catalog to study the parts before I plan my weekend doing this. In the meanwhile, I hope someone will do a youtube video on this soon!

amesser325

Thanks, I guess so. Just happy it's running. I kinda like my car...

I suppose you don't have to remove all that stuff but it's all very heavy and suspending everything through the strut bearing doesn't seem correct. As well, you'd be hanging the control arms, etc from the ball joints.

It's the aluminum plate that attaches to the subframe. It has a statement on it to the effect if "Don't drive the car without this plate attached"

There are a few different ones depending on the length.

I'd suggest getting a weekend subscription to BMW's online technical database so you have access to the service procedures as well as torque specs for everything. It's a very involved procedure and I wouldn't undertake it without having a good understanding of what all is involved and how to put it back together.

Cheers,

amesser325

And with that, I'm done!

I had a lingering Servotronic error that took a bit of digging to realize I had to code it out of the SGM module in addition to removing from the VO. Now it drives like a champ without any codes. Could not be more happy with how it turned out.

Since the AWD wheels no longer fit (they hit the coil over spring) I ended up finding a set of Style 81s from the E39 sport pack cars - they're 17x8 ET20, so I get the same offset in 17s to fit my brand new snow tires and are a favorite of mine. I had them refinished in a pewter grey laid on top of a black primer and, if I do say so myself, they look fantastic.





Contrast with the Style 124s for summer - 18x8 ET20


I do need a 20mm spacer to bring the front wheels out from the spring as without a spacer there's about 2mm of clearance, but that helps to bring the outer edge closer to the wider M5 fenders.

Now, on to that conversion guide...

nolatourings