PLEASE HELP
This is insane, I have been planning on changing out my plugs for the heck of it (56K miles) and now I am not sure I want to get in there. Hopefully it is something very simple and this doesn't end up costing a fortune. I guess my main concern would be getting dirt/buildup inside the cylinder when I pull the plug. Thanks for the updates, and I will be crossing my fingers for a simple/cheap solution.
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My Ride: 2008 550I,Space Grey,Hud,Cold Weather,M - Sport, matched GP Thunder headlights and Fogs,,Smoked Badges, Night Vision, Heated Seats,Rear Sunshades, Aux Audio, SAT, NAV, Black Grills, Sprint Booster, Dinan Cold Air, Stage 2 Dinan Software.....More to come soon
Strangest thing I have ever heard. The only thing I can think of if for some reason one the coils or plugs fired against the motor housing or cylinder housing and caused the controller to go nutty? Personally I have replaced many coils and plugs and never had to do anything remotely close to this.
Let us know.......
Let us know.......
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Joined: Jun 2009
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From: Austin
My Ride: 05 jet black 545i ya...
The last time I fired it up before having it towed I had no misfire or check engine lights on, It just bounced up and down between 100 rpm and probably 1500 rpm. A lot of clicking coming from computer area...
did you disconnect anything else while you were in there? one would think the dealer would spot that, but not necessarily the case anymore. MAF plug, the hoses to the CCV's, some other wiring harness?
I replaced my own plugs on the 545 and it fired right back up when I was done.
I replaced my own plugs on the 545 and it fired right back up when I was done.
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Joined: Jun 2009
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From: Austin
My Ride: 05 jet black 545i ya...
UPDATE: They re-programmed the DME, put on a new throttle body and cleaned the plugs...$940 later... Car runs OK, and I only mean OK. Doesnt feel like the same car. Probably gonna trade it in soon. Thanks for all the help people.
-Nick
-Nick
and if that doesnt work, looks like its getting towed to BMW in College Station which isnt my first choice since i know when they read misfire they are just going to change the coil packs which defeats the purpose of doing it yourself and saving money and wasting the money i spent on the coil packs already as well
I fail to see how replace the plugs and coils, assuming they were the correct ones. Should be a simple pull and replace job. The DME controls the timing and such, its not adjustable.
Just for grins went to ALLDATA and checked out the procedure, yep a simple remove/replace is all that is needed.
Unless of course you inadvertently disconnected something else while you were doing it...
Just for grins went to ALLDATA and checked out the procedure, yep a simple remove/replace is all that is needed.
Unless of course you inadvertently disconnected something else while you were doing it...
Its a stretch, but when you installed the new spark plugs did you verify they were gapped properly? The gap is the space between the actual plug and the electrode - or in other words where the electricty arcs across. If the space is too far it may cause the problem you are having.
Pull each connection apart one at a time and verify the connectors are not broken, remember there should be a metal to metal connection for the current to pass through.
Another thing you can try is reinstalling the old coil packs, this will rule out the possibility of you having new ones that are bad.
Pull each connection apart one at a time and verify the connectors are not broken, remember there should be a metal to metal connection for the current to pass through.
Another thing you can try is reinstalling the old coil packs, this will rule out the possibility of you having new ones that are bad.


