5 for life

I live in frigid Minneapolis where we have been above zero degrees Farenheit only occasionally so far this year. I took my 2006 530i (53k miles) in to Sears Imported Autos because it barely turns over every morning. I could never leave it at the airport in the winter as the battery goes dead. I had this problem last winter and they attributed it to unfavorable driving patterns. However I drive it more often now so they couldn't tell me that. They did admit that there is a "parasitic battery drain" but they couldn't pinpoint it. Previous posts had suggested that the software probably isn't shutting down the unnecessary systems when parked. The dealer finally admitted this but couldn't locate what systems were being turned "on" when parked. They charged me $250 for diagnostic labor. The extended warranty wouldn't pay since they did not uncover and fix a defect. Now I am out the $250 and I still have the same problem.... Did anyone else have this same problem???

Gilgorm

Had three problems over three weeks.
Comfort Access main module wasn't sleeping (replaced).
Electronic shifter (new for 08) wasn't sleeping (replaced).
Aftermarket alarm (from previous owner) was still activated (removed at dealership by alarm company).

Been fine for 5 months. There are a multitude of modules that are supposed to go to sleep. It takes a patient tech to find defective ones.

pauliehcfr

If you are handy, you can check the drain yourself. 1st, you need access to a digital multimeter. What you want to do is access the battery in the trunk. Disconnect the negative cable and connect that to the positive lead on the multimeter. Next, connect the negative lead from the multimeter to the negative post on the battery. Take a screwdriver and lock the trunk latch mechanism to eliminate the trunk light from drawing current. Set the multimeter to amps. Observe the readings. They will be high because the car has not gone to sleep yet. Wait about 20 minutes for car to go to sleep. You can tell when its asleep by looking at the gearshift indicator on an automatic transmission, When the light goes out, the car is asleep. When its asleep, observe the readings. they should be no more than 35 milliamps or .035 amps. Anything more than this indicates excessive drain, although sometimes BMW allows more tolerance due to the number of electronics onboard. If it is high, you can pinpoint the culprit yourself by removing fuses one at a time and observing the meter readings. When the meter reading drops to acceptable levels, you have found the source of drain. This is all assuming that you don't have any aftermarket electronics wired in to the car. Let me know if you need any help attempting this. Also, it is possible to have a battery that is weak. Cold temperatures "choke" out batteries and batteries typically only last a maximum of 5 years if they are well maintained. But I would start with checking the drain yourself and go from there.

Rudy

It seems to me as if they did, in fact uncover (and admit to) a defect. It seems to me that just because they didn't fix it (due to incompetence, etc.) that shouldn't mean that the warranty forces you to pay. Is your warranty through BMW? If so, you may want to try getting them involved...

5 for life

Thanks for your responses. I will try to track down a multimeter. Meanwhile I will ask the dealer about the comfort access main module. I did purchase the extended warranty through the BMW dealer. They are generally pretty good but I was very disappointed that I got stuck with the diagnostic solely because the dealer couldn't find something to fix.

methodsound

I have never heard of a mechanic charging for diagnostic service without actually providing a diagnosis. Your warranty thru BMW only covers repairs. The dealer did not actually repair anything.

luigi524td

Was the problem reported, diagnosed and documented while the car was in warranty? If it was reported, trouble shot, but not repaired BMW should cover both the diagnosis AND repair even though your car is slightly out of warranty.

5 for life

The car is out of the BMW warranty but is under the extended warranty that I purchased through my dealer (Sears of Minnetonka). They researched the problem and claimed to have spent "several hours" on it but couldn't find the source of the leak. They said they "cut me a deal" by charging me only for 2 hours of diagnostic time ($250). Since they couldn't diagnose and repair the problem, the extended warranty wouldn't pay for it. They would only pay for an actual diagnostice and corresponding repair. I seem stuck between a rock and a hard place.

5 for life

5 for life

Finally think that we found the battery drain. Sears Imported in Auto in Minnetonka, MN looked at it several times and charged me $250 diagnostic fee but did not find the problem. I took it to Motorwerks BMW in Bloomington, MN and their best mechanic Tony Stoy determined that water was leaking into my trunk and corroding the Telephone Control Unit (TCU)[/b], which is located in the drivers side of the trunk. Thus shorting the TCU and drawing 400 milliamps from the battery. Once he disconnected the TCU the draw disappeared. Unfortunately it cost me $1,800 to fix this problem. This problem was first looked at under factory warranty and is under extended warranty. However the water was leaking through the seal in the rear window due to an improper repair performed by the previous owner (this was a leased car prior to my purchasing it). It was sideswiped and the body work was not performed by a BMW dealer. Thus neither BMW or my extended warranty would cover it. I have to try to get some of the money back from the dealer I purchased it from. I could never leave this car at the airport because the battery was always dead after two days. I go back in three days for them to confirm that it the water is no longer entering the trunk and also that there is no longer a draw on the battery. I have been through two batteries and so many visits to Sears. I hope this solves my battery nightmare.