Overheating again!!!! WTF!!!!
08-07-2011, 04:01 AM
#11
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OP, did you replace the sensors when you replaced the pump and thermostat. Not very familiar with the parts for the 6 cylinders but assuming the parts are similar, I replaced 2 sensors when I replaced the pump and thermostat. One on the thermostat and the other on the end of one of the hose connecting to the radiator.
Also, have you accessed the secret menu to see what the operating temp is when you get the message.
I do agree with you about those red line gauges. I do not trust them since mine is always on 4 marks no matter what the condition is.
GL
Also, have you accessed the secret menu to see what the operating temp is when you get the message.
I do agree with you about those red line gauges. I do not trust them since mine is always on 4 marks no matter what the condition is.
GL
Secret menu??????? =0 tell mee!
08-07-2011, 05:05 AM
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Actually it does!!! Notice does little small lines on your rpm right next to 7,8 spending on how far yours go.. Pretty sure that does little lines is the gauge.. Go check out yours when you have your engine running... Normal driving you should have at least 3 to 4 lines
Keep me posted
Keep me posted
08-13-2011, 09:42 PM
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I have a 2008 535XI N54 engine. I started getting the two overheating messages and the very high fan speed. However, the engine did not feel too hot to me. I changed the thermostat, and I still have the same problem. I removed the thermostat and the water pump. I was surprised to find out that the pump was external and electric. The pump is very similar to the heater core pump in the older models, but a little bigger. However, its price is scary...I tested the pump and tried to run it on my work bench and it did not run. So, I dissected it. It has three coils, all good, and a circuit board with lots of electronic control. This pump has the same electric motor as the recalled HP fuel pump--very bad design. I think BMW may already have a new part number. Both the pump and the thermostat are located on the passenger side lower end of the radiator. The hoses were not easy to get to. I had to remove the five aluminum screws, remove all the hoses I could see, and then pull really hard on the pump or the thermostat to be able to get to the last two inner hose clamps. I do have a hoist, so draining the antifreeze and removing the assembly took 1.5 hours (I changed the rear brake pads while draining the antifreeze). I still have to put it all back together when I get the pump. I hope it works?.Any ideas??
Thanks
Thanks
08-14-2011, 12:59 PM
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My Ride: My ex-ride: EU '08 LCI 520dA. Space Grey, Sport Seats in Black Leather/Fabric Anthracite, Sport Steering Wheel, A/C with Extended Features, Hi-Fi Speakers, Cup Holders, Cruise with Braking function, Folding Rear Seats, Xenons, Park Distance Control.
bought a new thermostat,waterpump,expansion tank and it was fine for a week or so now im getting the same symptom.. when the engine gets hot a warning message pops up and says "engine too hot" the engine fan goes highspeed,the ac is cold and the heater it blowing warm/cold air. is this a bad waterpump or thermostat? PLZ help!
Not!
08-14-2011, 01:01 PM
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My Ride: 2008 BMW 535i Silver - E60
So sorry to see your case. I'll be extremely terrified to see that problem on my car as well. Mine is a 08 535i. I just replaced the waterpump and thermostat in June.
Did you guys replace the parts yourself? I spent over $1,200 on them...that was heartbreaking....
Did you guys replace the parts yourself? I spent over $1,200 on them...that was heartbreaking....
08-18-2011, 07:39 PM
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[quote name='iowahelpless' timestamp='1313300530' post='1372428']
I have a 2008 535XI N54 engine. I started getting the two overheating messages and the very high fan speed. However, the engine did not feel too hot to me. I changed the thermostat, and I still have the same problem. I removed the thermostat and the water pump. I was surprised to find out that the pump was external and electric. The pump is very similar to the heater core pump in the older models, but a little bigger. However, its price is scary...I tested the pump and tried to run it on my work bench and it did not run. So, I dissected it. It has three coils, all good, and a circuit board with lots of electronic control. This pump has the same electric motor as the recalled HP fuel pump--very bad design. I think BMW may already have a new part number. Both the pump and the thermostat are located on the passenger side lower end of the radiator. The hoses were not easy to get to. I had to remove the five aluminum screws, remove all the hoses I could see, and then pull really hard on the pump or the thermostat to be able to get to the last two inner hose clamps. I do have a hoist, so draining the antifreeze and removing the assembly took 1.5 hours (I changed the rear brake pads while draining the antifreeze). I still have to put it all back together when I get the pump. I hope it works?.Any ideas??
Thanks
[/quote
Problem Solved. 2008 BMW 535XI E60 65,200 Miles, overheating and has a very high fan speed.
I ordered a new pump from the dealer, and yes, it is a new redesigned pump with a new part number. The dealer price was $575 but I have dealt with this BMW parts person for over 15 years. So he gave me a discount and lowered the price to $450. He also included the new aluminum bolts. I assembled the pump and the thermostat on the bench, then I set them in their place. I struggled with the inner hoses again, but after an hour of battling, I managed to get them all on. I refilled with antifreeze, and started the car. I had all kind of lights from brakes to 4x4 messages on the display. However, after a short drive around the block, everything was normal again. If I had to do it again, I would do it differently. Here are the steps:
1. Place the car on a hoist
2. Remove plastic cover (green screws)
3. Drain antifreeze from radiator (loosen red tap on driver side)
4. Remove nut holding AC line under the thermostat, and let ac line hang down to give more room
5. Remove the rigid hose clips (two of them 1.5? and 1? with a simple C shape clips, can use a screw driver to pull them out, then disconnect the hoses.
6. Remove the three ?star head? aluminum bolts (two lower, one upper), the assembly should be loose now and only held in place by two hoses 1.5? and 0.5? connected with hose clamps. I did disconnect them from the assembly, and that was hard, Instead I suggest number 6
7. Locate the other ends of the water pump hoses assembly to the side that connects to the engine (under the hood), Lower the car on the hoist, remove the two hose clamps, and disconnect hoses. There is a 1.5? hose that runs between the pump and the thermostat. The hose can stay on and will come out with the assembly.
8. Raise cars on hoist again, disconnect power line, and remove assembly.
9. Mark all hose location on old pump and old thermostat before removing, a straight line with a red marker works good
10. Remove hoses one at a time, and install on new assembly. Match all hose marks from old assembly. Hoses must be comfortable as they connect between new pump and new thermostat, no twists, no turns.
11. Remove small aluminum clip that holds the power wire from old pump and install on new pump. It sits next to the upper hole for the third bolt.
12. Install assembly in place, connect power first, then hoses, then bolts, then place power cable back in aluminum clip on pump.
13. Reinstall AC line in its location
14. Close and secure radiator drain plug
15. Reinstall engine plastic cover
16. Refill with antifreeze, bleed with car NOT runnong (by squeezing upper hose from engine to radiator)
17. Start the car, turn heater on, and keep adding antifreeze till full.
18. When heater blows warm air, then you have circulation.
19. Drive car and all errors will be gone.
Total time invesred : 4 hours
Time to do it again: 2 hours
I hope this was helpful
I have a 2008 535XI N54 engine. I started getting the two overheating messages and the very high fan speed. However, the engine did not feel too hot to me. I changed the thermostat, and I still have the same problem. I removed the thermostat and the water pump. I was surprised to find out that the pump was external and electric. The pump is very similar to the heater core pump in the older models, but a little bigger. However, its price is scary...I tested the pump and tried to run it on my work bench and it did not run. So, I dissected it. It has three coils, all good, and a circuit board with lots of electronic control. This pump has the same electric motor as the recalled HP fuel pump--very bad design. I think BMW may already have a new part number. Both the pump and the thermostat are located on the passenger side lower end of the radiator. The hoses were not easy to get to. I had to remove the five aluminum screws, remove all the hoses I could see, and then pull really hard on the pump or the thermostat to be able to get to the last two inner hose clamps. I do have a hoist, so draining the antifreeze and removing the assembly took 1.5 hours (I changed the rear brake pads while draining the antifreeze). I still have to put it all back together when I get the pump. I hope it works?.Any ideas??
Thanks
[/quote
Problem Solved. 2008 BMW 535XI E60 65,200 Miles, overheating and has a very high fan speed.
I ordered a new pump from the dealer, and yes, it is a new redesigned pump with a new part number. The dealer price was $575 but I have dealt with this BMW parts person for over 15 years. So he gave me a discount and lowered the price to $450. He also included the new aluminum bolts. I assembled the pump and the thermostat on the bench, then I set them in their place. I struggled with the inner hoses again, but after an hour of battling, I managed to get them all on. I refilled with antifreeze, and started the car. I had all kind of lights from brakes to 4x4 messages on the display. However, after a short drive around the block, everything was normal again. If I had to do it again, I would do it differently. Here are the steps:
1. Place the car on a hoist
2. Remove plastic cover (green screws)
3. Drain antifreeze from radiator (loosen red tap on driver side)
4. Remove nut holding AC line under the thermostat, and let ac line hang down to give more room
5. Remove the rigid hose clips (two of them 1.5? and 1? with a simple C shape clips, can use a screw driver to pull them out, then disconnect the hoses.
6. Remove the three ?star head? aluminum bolts (two lower, one upper), the assembly should be loose now and only held in place by two hoses 1.5? and 0.5? connected with hose clamps. I did disconnect them from the assembly, and that was hard, Instead I suggest number 6
7. Locate the other ends of the water pump hoses assembly to the side that connects to the engine (under the hood), Lower the car on the hoist, remove the two hose clamps, and disconnect hoses. There is a 1.5? hose that runs between the pump and the thermostat. The hose can stay on and will come out with the assembly.
8. Raise cars on hoist again, disconnect power line, and remove assembly.
9. Mark all hose location on old pump and old thermostat before removing, a straight line with a red marker works good
10. Remove hoses one at a time, and install on new assembly. Match all hose marks from old assembly. Hoses must be comfortable as they connect between new pump and new thermostat, no twists, no turns.
11. Remove small aluminum clip that holds the power wire from old pump and install on new pump. It sits next to the upper hole for the third bolt.
12. Install assembly in place, connect power first, then hoses, then bolts, then place power cable back in aluminum clip on pump.
13. Reinstall AC line in its location
14. Close and secure radiator drain plug
15. Reinstall engine plastic cover
16. Refill with antifreeze, bleed with car NOT runnong (by squeezing upper hose from engine to radiator)
17. Start the car, turn heater on, and keep adding antifreeze till full.
18. When heater blows warm air, then you have circulation.
19. Drive car and all errors will be gone.
Total time invesred : 4 hours
Time to do it again: 2 hours
I hope this was helpful
03-24-2012, 03:42 PM
#18
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My Ride: 535xi
Model Year: 2008
Engine: N54
iowa - Would you be able to describe the sound of the water pump when running? I have the exact same issue as you, but I can hear the electric water pump go on and off during the 12-minute coolant system bleeding cycle. It sounds like replacing your water pump did the trick, but I don't think that is the case with mine.
I also suspect the thermostat... but wouldn't the mechanical fail safe take over anyways? I think the issue lies in the ECM controlling the fan functions. I did an OBDII scan and did a battery reset and there are no codes. Any ideas, or other people with this same problem?
I also suspect the thermostat... but wouldn't the mechanical fail safe take over anyways? I think the issue lies in the ECM controlling the fan functions. I did an OBDII scan and did a battery reset and there are no codes. Any ideas, or other people with this same problem?
08-01-2012, 04:06 PM
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So had to bump this thread, I have a 2007 535xi with ~50k. My fan started doing the high speed thing as described within this thread, and it occurred within 5 minutes of cold start (along with an engine overheating message). I drove it home, shut it down, and popped the hood. The radiator was completely cool to the touch, essentially room temp.
I'm trying to be cheap and do this myself, so am I correct in assuming I need a new pump, since the engine is getting hot but the radiator is cold? Or, can I assume thermostat? Seems to me there is no circulation of coolant due to the cold radiator, which makes me think water pump...thanks for any help all!
I'm trying to be cheap and do this myself, so am I correct in assuming I need a new pump, since the engine is getting hot but the radiator is cold? Or, can I assume thermostat? Seems to me there is no circulation of coolant due to the cold radiator, which makes me think water pump...thanks for any help all!
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