Oil Filter Freak?
09-01-2012, 01:20 PM
#1
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Since the N52 oil filter is so easily accessible, and takes 5 minutes to change, why not change it every few months? I recently did an oil/ filter change, afer 7500 miles, and the filter was terribly dirty looking and some fins were pressed together like it was trying to collapse in on itself. At $7.95 a piece, I just ordered 3 more and plan to change it again after 3000 miles. I want to get 300,000 miles out of this baby! 
Good idea? Doesn't seem like it could hurt anything.
I'll reply back on the condition after the short-change
Good idea? Doesn't seem like it could hurt anything.
I'll reply back on the condition after the short-change
09-01-2012, 01:43 PM
#3
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09-01-2012, 02:06 PM
#4
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Since the N52 oil filter is so easily accessible, and takes 5 minutes to change, why not change it every few months? I recently did an oil/ filter change, afer 7500 miles, and the filter was terribly dirty looking and some fins were pressed together like it was trying to collapse in on itself. At $7.95 a piece, I just ordered 3 more and plan to change it again after 3000 miles. I want to get 300,000 miles out of this baby!
Good idea? Doesn't seem like it could hurt anything.
I'll reply back on the condition after the short-change
Good idea? Doesn't seem like it could hurt anything.
I'll reply back on the condition after the short-change
09-01-2012, 03:25 PM
#5
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Thread Starter
The filter is 'supposed' to get dirty - that's it's job. But even after 7500 miles it should still be working properly unless your engine oil is getting gunked up by driving short trips - not reaching operating temps - or not treated to the occasional highway drives. If that's the case you should do a complete oil change + filter every 7500 mikes or 2x a year (whichever comes first). That might help you reach 300K miles on the engine ... BTW, praying every 6 months might help the rest of the car arrive there too
09-01-2012, 10:18 PM
#6
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Since the N52 oil filter is so easily accessible, and takes 5 minutes to change, why not change it every few months? I recently did an oil/ filter change, afer 7500 miles, and the filter was terribly dirty looking and some fins were pressed together like it was trying to collapse in on itself. At $7.95 a piece, I just ordered 3 more and plan to change it again after 3000 miles. I want to get 300,000 miles out of this baby!
Good idea? Doesn't seem like it could hurt anything.
I'll reply back on the condition after the short-change
Good idea? Doesn't seem like it could hurt anything.
I'll reply back on the condition after the short-change
If your goal is to reach 300K miles, the condition of your oil is far more important than how clean your filter is.
Assuming you are using a high quality synthetic motor oil, its ability to protect your engine is totally dependent upon the additive levels present at the time you change your oil.
If you want to be scientific about it, examine your driving habits. Oil ages by the hour, not the mile. Try to estimate your average mph and target your oil changes at 250 hours of operation.
However, if you don't want to bother with that set your drain intervals at between 5k and 6K miles and you will get to 300K miles.
09-02-2012, 12:59 AM
#7
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Thread Starter
What kind of oil filter are you using? Wix, Mann, Hengst or BMW OE filters are all good.
If your goal is to reach 300K miles, the condition of your oil is far more important than how clean your filter is.
Assuming you are using a high quality synthetic motor oil, its ability to protect your engine is totally dependent upon the additive levels present at the time you change your oil.
If you want to be scientific about it, examine your driving habits. Oil ages by the hour, not the mile. Try to estimate your average mph and target your oil changes at 250 hours of operation.
However, if you don't want to bother with that set your drain intervals at between 5k and 6K miles and you will get to 300K miles.
If your goal is to reach 300K miles, the condition of your oil is far more important than how clean your filter is.
Assuming you are using a high quality synthetic motor oil, its ability to protect your engine is totally dependent upon the additive levels present at the time you change your oil.
If you want to be scientific about it, examine your driving habits. Oil ages by the hour, not the mile. Try to estimate your average mph and target your oil changes at 250 hours of operation.
However, if you don't want to bother with that set your drain intervals at between 5k and 6K miles and you will get to 300K miles.
Changing the filter by itself, in between oil/filter changes was really just out of curiosity, to see what it will look like. And because it's 'cheap and easy'
We'll see how it turns out.
09-02-2012, 08:54 AM
#8
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Senior Members
I use the Mann filter and the Mobile 1 0W-40 LL01. Most trips are short range, 10 minutes, to and from work, with some 30 minute golf trips and an occasional 4 hour road trip mixed in. So i'm guestimating about a year for 250 hours. It was about 9 months in between 7500 mile oil changes. Maybe time is my enemy and i should switch to a spring and fall change. I've had the car less than a year, and i've always started feeling guilty after 3000 miles on oil with my other cars, so to go 7500 was definitely trying for me.
Changing the filter by itself, in between oil/filter changes was really just out of curiosity, to see what it will look like. And because it's 'cheap and easy'
We'll see how it turns out.
Changing the filter by itself, in between oil/filter changes was really just out of curiosity, to see what it will look like. And because it's 'cheap and easy'
We'll see how it turns out.
What you are suggesting will be good - Spring and fall.
The tough part about your driving style is except for the 30 min golf trips and 4 hour road trips the engine never really reaches full operating temperature. Fuel and water vapor isn't burned off but instead collects in the oil as a contaminant. Additives in the oil, designed to counteract these contaminants are used. If the contaminants reach a critical level and all of the additives are exhausted then sludge can begin to build and the oil's ability to properly lubricate will be gone.
Unlike traditional oil that comes out of the ground, synthetic base stock is extremely stable, has an excellent viscosity index (flows well at very low temperatures and doesn't get too thin at very high temperatures), has no waxes to solidify and is highly resistant to oxidation compared to dino oil. But both dino and synthetic base stocks rely heavily on the magic of additives. Because most of the additives are sacrificial they eventually are all used up. Once additives are gone the oil dramatically changes for the bad, whether synthetic or not. The trick to a healthy engine is to change the oil while there is still a good percentage of additives left, and the oil is still doing its job.
Changing your oil twice a year should be safe for you.
09-02-2012, 10:12 AM
#9
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Thread Starter
Mann is a good quality filter and M1 0W-40 is an excellent "light 40" with good HTHS viscosity protection and is widely available at a reasonable price. Exactly what I use.
What you are suggesting will be good - Spring and fall.
The tough part about your driving style is except for the 30 min golf trips and 4 hour road trips the engine never really reaches full operating temperature. Fuel and water vapor isn't burned off but instead collects in the oil as a contaminant. Additives in the oil, designed to counteract these contaminants are used. If the contaminants reach a critical level and all of the additives are exhausted then sludge can begin to build and the oil's ability to properly lubricate will be gone.
Unlike traditional oil that comes out of the ground, synthetic base stock is extremely stable, has an excellent viscosity index (flows well at very low temperatures and doesn't get too thin at very high temperatures), has no waxes to solidify and is highly resistant to oxidation compared to dino oil. But both dino and synthetic base stocks rely heavily on the magic of additives. Because most of the additives are sacrificial they eventually are all used up. Once additives are gone the oil dramatically changes for the bad, whether synthetic or not. The trick to a healthy engine is to change the oil while there is still a good percentage of additives left, and the oil is still doing its job.
Changing your oil twice a year should be safe for you.
What you are suggesting will be good - Spring and fall.
The tough part about your driving style is except for the 30 min golf trips and 4 hour road trips the engine never really reaches full operating temperature. Fuel and water vapor isn't burned off but instead collects in the oil as a contaminant. Additives in the oil, designed to counteract these contaminants are used. If the contaminants reach a critical level and all of the additives are exhausted then sludge can begin to build and the oil's ability to properly lubricate will be gone.
Unlike traditional oil that comes out of the ground, synthetic base stock is extremely stable, has an excellent viscosity index (flows well at very low temperatures and doesn't get too thin at very high temperatures), has no waxes to solidify and is highly resistant to oxidation compared to dino oil. But both dino and synthetic base stocks rely heavily on the magic of additives. Because most of the additives are sacrificial they eventually are all used up. Once additives are gone the oil dramatically changes for the bad, whether synthetic or not. The trick to a healthy engine is to change the oil while there is still a good percentage of additives left, and the oil is still doing its job.
Changing your oil twice a year should be safe for you.
09-03-2012, 11:44 AM
#10
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My Ride: 2010 535 xDrive, 6MT, M-sport pkg
You can also use the trip computer to keep track of both average speed and hours