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Oil Change - Dealer Screw Up?

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Old 01-21-2007, 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by 1600' post='381427' date='Jan 21 2007, 08:56 PM
Why are you guys screwing around with your oil changes with the vehicle under full free of charge warranty? Just a thought.
A personal choice. Free is every 15,000 miles. Even with synthetic that's a long time especially with a new engine. No filter, in my opinion, is going to get out all the particles floating around in the oil, again, especially with an engine that's breaking in and shedding metal constantly till the parts match. Filters only get so much and when they get it there's less filter surface to get the next one. After a while the per cent of effective filter goes way down. So I'm going to make myself happy and do my own now. I wish I had done it at 1000 like always but will settle for 8000 and let the dealer pay for 15. In the mean time my engine's going to be running clean.
Old 01-21-2007, 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by pa550' post='381430' date='Jan 21 2007, 09:03 PM
The drain plug set up is well designed. There is a trap door in the belly pan. Remove one or two screws to get it off. Once off, you'll see the drain plug - it has an allen wrench fitting. Take out the plug and let her drain. The filter casing has a small drain plug in it as well. I wait until the crankcase has drained, then remove the plug on the filter casing. Once the oil has drained from the filter casing, use a a 17 or 18 mm socket to remove the casing. The filter is inside. Remember to replace the o rings on both the filter casing and on small drain plug on the casing. Put the small drain plug into the casing on your workbench. Also, rembemer to replace the brass washer/gasket on the main plug.

I think I used 9 quarts of oil. I filled it up with whatever the manual said the capacity is. There is a dipstick on the V8, so you can check.

Have fun.
Here's a link to the oil change instructions posted in the technical gallery:
http://forums.e60.net/index.php?automodule...si&img=2822

The instructions say they're for the 545i but I just checked and the 550i instructions are exactly the same (obviously filter part numbers are not part of the instructions...)
Old 01-21-2007, 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by 1600' post='381427' date='Jan 21 2007, 08:56 PM
Why are you guys screwing around with your oil changes with the vehicle under full free of charge warranty? Just a thought.
Because some people prefer the security that more frequent oil changes provide. If I was keeping my car beyond the warranty period, I'd be changing it more frequently too...
Old 01-21-2007, 05:17 PM
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Originally Posted by pa550' post='381430' date='Jan 21 2007, 09:03 PM
The drain plug set up is well designed. There is a trap door in the belly pan. Remove one or two screws to get it off. Once off, you'll see the drain plug - it has an allen wrench fitting. Take out the plug and let her drain. The filter casing has a small drain plug in it as well. I wait until the crankcase has drained, then remove the plug on the filter casing. Once the oil has drained from the filter casing, use a a 17 or 18 mm socket to remove the casing. The filter is inside. Remember to replace the o rings on both the filter casing and on small drain plug on the casing. Put the small drain plug into the casing on your workbench. Also, rembemer to replace the brass washer/gasket on the main plug.

I think I used 9 quarts of oil. I filled it up with whatever the manual said the capacity is. There is a dipstick on the V8, so you can check.

Have fun.
I'da never found the trap door - thanks. My '07 has no dipstick - electronic - so I have to add 6 or 7, check the level then top off. BMW warns strongly about overfilling. Did you jack up the front or put it on a lift - can't find the jack points.
Old 01-21-2007, 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by geokr1' post='381422' date='Jan 21 2007, 08:40 PM
I would say no if the filter sealed in the housing so that all the oil went through one side and out the other without going around the filter. Did it seem to fit when you installed it? Is so then size really doesn't matter since you change often enough that they couldn't clog and all BMW filters pretty much filter out the same size material.

I bought my first filter and oil this weekend to do my own change at 8,000 miles and will verify that they gave me the right one. Where did you find the drain plug (haven't been under mine yet) and how much did you get out of the engine and then add?
By the way, I have the M-Tech bumper and with Rhino ramps the clearance pulling up was too low and the lower lips on the bumper would have rubbed. I bought two 1" x 10" planks 3 feet long and lay them down in front of the ramps to give the car an extra inch or so clearance on the ramps.
Old 01-21-2007, 05:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Rudy' post='381436' date='Jan 21 2007, 09:11 PM
Here's a link to the oil change instructions posted in the technical gallery:
http://forums.e60.net/index.php?automodule...si&img=2822

The instructions say they're for the 545i but I just checked and the 550i instructions are exactly the same (obviously filter part numbers are not part of the instructions...)
Very cool. How do I get the full set of instructions for the car?
Old 01-21-2007, 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by geokr1' post='381439' date='Jan 21 2007, 09:17 PM
I'da never found the trap door - thanks. My '07 has no dipstick - electronic - so I have to add 6 or 7, check the level then top off. BMW warns strongly about overfilling. Did you jack up the front or put it on a lift - can't find the jack points.
I think you have a dipstick - at least my '06 550 has one. Correct, never overfill because if you do the crankshaft can froth the oil up in the pan and you'll end up starving the engine. Use ramps, not jacks. See my earlier reply to you. Rudy posted the precise instructions.
Old 01-21-2007, 05:59 PM
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Originally Posted by pa550' post='381457' date='Jan 21 2007, 09:47 PM
I think you have a dipstick - at least my '06 550 has one. Correct, never overfill because if you do the crankshaft can froth the oil up in the pan and you'll end up starving the engine. Use ramps, not jacks. See my earlier reply to you. Rudy posted the precise instructions.
Copy both - Thanks!
Old 01-22-2007, 01:20 AM
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It is a well known fact that if you want your engine to last a very long time and i mean over 200,000 miles then regular oil changes are very important. 15,000 intervals is a very long time. However, the bmw longlife or the likes of castrol diesel edge should do the job for 15,000.
My problem is in the way they do there oil changes, have you ever watched them. My dealer in Scotland never took the sump plug off my e39 instead they pump out the oil with a machine! It is simply impossible to get all the oil out with this method. At the time they said it was common do do this with all vehicles.
Does anyone know if this is still used at you realerships?
Old 01-22-2007, 04:04 AM
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It is almost universal at garages of any size that the oil is "sucked" out, rather than drained. It is easier and cleaner, and for the "no-blame culture", the Techs don't need to risk getting hot oil over their fingers. Of course, it would be nice to know that ALL of the old oil has been removed, and not just most, or even half of it.

Sorry, I'm being cynical again. BMW Dealers would never drain out 4 litres and charge for 6 would they??

I too change my oil more frequently than recommended, around the 7000 mile mark. I suppose I'm old fashioned as well!


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