jwarxxx

So, I replaced the VCG last night, was having increased battery discharge issues. I replaced the VCG because I was getting smoke coming from the rear passenger side of the engine bay. Just drove to Autozone to get my battery load tested, and upon starting the car I got immediately engine malfunction, reduced power, and driving stability message on the idrive. I had them pull codes while I was there.
The codes I got were:
P052B “Cold start “A” camshaft position timing over retarded Bank 1”
P0012 “Intake camshaft position timing - Over retarded Bank 1”
P0193 ”Fuel Raul Pressure Sensor High Input”
P17E5
U0100 “Lost communication with ECM/PCM A”

Any suggestions? I’ve replaced the VCG myself, and alternator myself about a month ago, but now I feel like I’ve reached my ceiling with DIY which is really discouraging.
At the top the “most likely solution” says to replace the VVT Solenoid.
I’m also losing all of my coolant after every drive, so I’m now parking the car until it’s fixed for good. Any help is appreciated. I love this car and I’d rather not get rid of it if I can help it.

seanjordan20

What did the test say. How many volts does it have. I would look at the battery first with that many codes coming from out of the blue. Does it need charging

jwarxxx

So I had it sitting on the charger for hours today before I went to have it tested, before I left it was between 12.9-13.1 and was showing around 12.1 when they tested it(only about a 3-4 mile drive. It consistently would drop to 11.3 when I was doing the work on it. I also would have to charge it multiple times in the past few weeks, but it would need charging after a day or so. I didn’t drive it hardly at all due to the coolant issue. So I initially thought it was going dead because it would sit for days at a time.

seanjordan20

How old is the battery. Seems to me you need a new one.

jwarxxx

Honestly couldn’t tell you, just hit 171k miles, and I’ve been the owner for the last 40-50k

seanjordan20

Replace it clear codes and continue troubleshooting. If you want read the production date on the battery. More than likely it's more than 6 years old. When you have multiple issues like that always check battery and alternator. It's more than likely your issue

jwarxxx

I’ll look into the battery replacement tomorrow, and I seriously hope it’s not the alternator. That was the most frustrating fix I’ve ever had to do lol. Plus I replaced it just over a month ago due to the old one seizing and shredding the belt(had a shop drop the oil pan and check for debris, they said nothing got sucked behind the crank seal so I decided to replace the alternator and tensioner myself)

jwarxxx

double checked everything i unplugged for the vcg replacement and everything seems correct. i started the car after checking and still had the engine malfunction at start/CEL, and the gear may shift without brake being applied. I shut it off, unplugged the IBS, started it again and the car died within 5 seconds of starting it. Put the battery charger on and it was showing 7.7 volts. Second start gave me the christmas tree of lights on the dash ABS, brake, etc.

jwarxxx

was showing 13v and dropped whenever i opened the door, then volts at 11.3 and dropping with car started, fan still going at max speed whenever the car is on.

jwarxxx

update, did some voltage tests, turns out my alternator was bad. sucks because i just got this one a month ago, got it out and could smell a burnt electrical smell in it. so i’ll be sending it back and having a new one sent. hopefully that’s the root of these issues. will update.