Motor oil
#1
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hi all,
going to do a oil change on my 2005 e60
what weight oil and brand should i use on my car.
i live in rhode island (new england).
im looking to buy at a auto part store not the dealer.
going to do a oil change on my 2005 e60
what weight oil and brand should i use on my car.
i live in rhode island (new england).
im looking to buy at a auto part store not the dealer.
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BMW Long-life rating LL-01 Approved Synthetic Oils for the US Market:
* Castrol Syntec European Formula SAE 0W-30
* Mobil 1 SAE 0W-40
* Pennzoil Platinum European Formula Ultra SAE 5W-30
* Valvoline SynPower SAE 5W-30
* Castrol Syntec European Formula SAE 0W-30
* Mobil 1 SAE 0W-40
* Pennzoil Platinum European Formula Ultra SAE 5W-30
* Valvoline SynPower SAE 5W-30
#3
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thanks, and all these are good concidering i live in new england (with winter around the corner)?
im leaning towards mobile 1
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My Ride: 2005 525i 6MT
im on the same page as you, 05 e60 in need of oil changed.
just wondering the difference between the 0w-30/40 and 5w-30.
iv'e read the 0w is better for temps under 50 Degress F. but there cant be to much of a difference between the 0w and 5w oil? (is there a reason to run one over the other)
just wondering the difference between the 0w-30/40 and 5w-30.
iv'e read the 0w is better for temps under 50 Degress F. but there cant be to much of a difference between the 0w and 5w oil? (is there a reason to run one over the other)
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My Ride: E60 M54
Model Year: 525i 2004
https://5series.net/forums/topic/125...1#entry1465334
#8
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Concur with Phil's list above; here's a link to BMW's list of approved synthetic engine oils in the U.S.
I buy "German Castrol" 0W-30 synthetic oil (actually made in Germany; check the bottle) on sale at Advanced Auto. My local Walmart carries Mobil 1 0W-40 "European Formula" @ $6.47/qt.
Since you're in New England, you may want to try Bavarian Autosport for other maintenance items for your car.
HTH,
Jim / crewzer
I buy "German Castrol" 0W-30 synthetic oil (actually made in Germany; check the bottle) on sale at Advanced Auto. My local Walmart carries Mobil 1 0W-40 "European Formula" @ $6.47/qt.
Since you're in New England, you may want to try Bavarian Autosport for other maintenance items for your car.
HTH,
Jim / crewzer
#9
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ANY good quality full-synthetic motor oil in the 0W-30 to 0W-40 range will do the job, IF ... you change your oil before the additives are used up.
If the base stock is a good full synthetic you have built in good low temperature flow for cold weather starting and resistance to shear-down (oil will not change viscosity over time with use).
Additives are the magic. Dispersants (to keep soot contaminants suspended) and detergents (inhibit rust, prevent high temperature deposits and neutralize acids) usually make up about 70% of a synthetic's add-pack.
Whichever oil you choose, once the additives are exhausted (they are designed to be sacrificial and will be used up over time) the oil's properties change for the bad. Sludge will begin to form.
Oil ages by hour of use, not miles. 250-300 hours is the maximum you want to do. But who tracks hours?
For most applications changing your oil every 5K-6K miles will guarantee you still have additives left when you change your oil.
In the Mobil 1 line, the low temperature kinematic viscosity for the 0W-30, 5W-30 and 0W-40 oils are so close as to not be worth talking about. All are good for cold temperature applications.
The main difference will be in high-temperature/high-shear applications (tracking a car or driving in very high heats such as deserts while pushing the engine aggressively). Where the 30 grade oils start to get a little too thin, the Mobil 1 40 grade is a nice compromise between good HTHS protection and getting so heavy that the higher viscosity adversely affects gas mileage or self-generates heat from higher shear values.
Bottom line - For normal driving 0W-30 or 5W-30 are great. For more aggressive applications the 0W-40 is my choice.
Mobil 1 30 grades are available in handy and cheap 5-quart jugs. Mobil 1 0W-40 is widely available by the quart for $6.47 and while also available in the 5 quart jug through some national auto parts chains, is not yet available at Walmart (the price leader).
But again, any good synthetic will do the job if kept fresh!
If the base stock is a good full synthetic you have built in good low temperature flow for cold weather starting and resistance to shear-down (oil will not change viscosity over time with use).
Additives are the magic. Dispersants (to keep soot contaminants suspended) and detergents (inhibit rust, prevent high temperature deposits and neutralize acids) usually make up about 70% of a synthetic's add-pack.
Whichever oil you choose, once the additives are exhausted (they are designed to be sacrificial and will be used up over time) the oil's properties change for the bad. Sludge will begin to form.
Oil ages by hour of use, not miles. 250-300 hours is the maximum you want to do. But who tracks hours?
For most applications changing your oil every 5K-6K miles will guarantee you still have additives left when you change your oil.
In the Mobil 1 line, the low temperature kinematic viscosity for the 0W-30, 5W-30 and 0W-40 oils are so close as to not be worth talking about. All are good for cold temperature applications.
The main difference will be in high-temperature/high-shear applications (tracking a car or driving in very high heats such as deserts while pushing the engine aggressively). Where the 30 grade oils start to get a little too thin, the Mobil 1 40 grade is a nice compromise between good HTHS protection and getting so heavy that the higher viscosity adversely affects gas mileage or self-generates heat from higher shear values.
Bottom line - For normal driving 0W-30 or 5W-30 are great. For more aggressive applications the 0W-40 is my choice.
Mobil 1 30 grades are available in handy and cheap 5-quart jugs. Mobil 1 0W-40 is widely available by the quart for $6.47 and while also available in the 5 quart jug through some national auto parts chains, is not yet available at Walmart (the price leader).
But again, any good synthetic will do the job if kept fresh!
#10
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My Ride: E60 M54
Model Year: 525i 2004
ANY good quality full-synthetic motor oil in the 0W-30 to 0W-40 range will do the job, IF ... you change your oil before the additives are used up.
If the base stock is a good full synthetic you have built in good low temperature flow for cold weather starting and resistance to shear-down (oil will not change viscosity over time with use).
Additives are the magic. Dispersants (to keep soot contaminants suspended) and detergents (inhibit rust, prevent high temperature deposits and neutralize acids) usually make up about 70% of a synthetic's add-pack.
Whichever oil you choose, once the additives are exhausted (they are designed to be sacrificial and will be used up over time) the oil's properties change for the bad. Sludge will begin to form.
Oil ages by hour of use, not miles. 250-300 hours is the maximum you want to do. But who tracks hours?
For most applications changing your oil every 5K-6K miles will guarantee you still have additives left when you change your oil.
In the Mobil 1 line, the low temperature kinematic viscosity for the 0W-30, 5W-30 and 0W-40 oils are so close as to not be worth talking about. All are good for cold temperature applications.
The main difference will be in high-temperature/high-shear applications (tracking a car or driving in very high heats such as deserts while pushing the engine aggressively). Where the 30 grade oils start to get a little too thin, the Mobil 1 40 grade is a nice compromise between good HTHS protection and getting so heavy that the higher viscosity adversely affects gas mileage or self-generates heat from higher shear values.
Bottom line - For normal driving 0W-30 or 5W-30 are great. For more aggressive applications the 0W-40 is my choice.
Mobil 1 30 grades are available in handy and cheap 5-quart jugs. Mobil 1 0W-40 is widely available by the quart for $6.47 and while also available in the 5 quart jug through some national auto parts chains, is not yet available at Walmart (the price leader).
But again, any good synthetic will do the job if kept fresh!
If the base stock is a good full synthetic you have built in good low temperature flow for cold weather starting and resistance to shear-down (oil will not change viscosity over time with use).
Additives are the magic. Dispersants (to keep soot contaminants suspended) and detergents (inhibit rust, prevent high temperature deposits and neutralize acids) usually make up about 70% of a synthetic's add-pack.
Whichever oil you choose, once the additives are exhausted (they are designed to be sacrificial and will be used up over time) the oil's properties change for the bad. Sludge will begin to form.
Oil ages by hour of use, not miles. 250-300 hours is the maximum you want to do. But who tracks hours?
For most applications changing your oil every 5K-6K miles will guarantee you still have additives left when you change your oil.
In the Mobil 1 line, the low temperature kinematic viscosity for the 0W-30, 5W-30 and 0W-40 oils are so close as to not be worth talking about. All are good for cold temperature applications.
The main difference will be in high-temperature/high-shear applications (tracking a car or driving in very high heats such as deserts while pushing the engine aggressively). Where the 30 grade oils start to get a little too thin, the Mobil 1 40 grade is a nice compromise between good HTHS protection and getting so heavy that the higher viscosity adversely affects gas mileage or self-generates heat from higher shear values.
Bottom line - For normal driving 0W-30 or 5W-30 are great. For more aggressive applications the 0W-40 is my choice.
Mobil 1 30 grades are available in handy and cheap 5-quart jugs. Mobil 1 0W-40 is widely available by the quart for $6.47 and while also available in the 5 quart jug through some national auto parts chains, is not yet available at Walmart (the price leader).
But again, any good synthetic will do the job if kept fresh!