I am having the same problem. I bought a new plastic connector from the dealer. I have a hard time removing the wires and the Socket Contact (pin) from the old connector. It seems like the socket contact clicks into the connector and may require a special tool to release it once it "clicked" in. Is there a trick to this besides totally destroying the connector with a cutter to get the wire and the socket contact out?

Also, if I want to add an additional groud. Where do I connect the wire to?

 

Since my original connector was trash I basically broke the pins out of the connector and them snapped them into the new connector I purchased.

I'm sure there is a more simple way, but it worked for me.

Also, the new pin I purchased for the bunt wire was crimped on using a crimping tool I had.

 

Thanks, I have to destroy the old connector to get the wire and contact out. The dealer from where I bought the new connector thinks there may be a recall coming for E60 to correct this burning ground wire issue.

E46 are being recalled for the same exact issue. http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=867564
We should all file complaints to nhtsa to urge a recall. Simply changing out the burnt connector doesn't stop melting ground wire from happening again.

 

Hey guys, its been a while

Intermittently faced the reverse/turn sig./brake lamp malf...

Diagnosis: SDI (Same damn issue)

Pics:




Ordered replacement parts mentioned above (dealership)
63217177701, carrier, $50
12527505477, socket housing uncoded, $6
12527502933, socket contact slk 2.8, $2.50

This should be it. Right?

If you don't hear back from me, it means I'm out cruisin

Thanks,
Ron


Keywords:
left rear turn signal malfunction
left brake lamp malfunction
left backup light malfunction
bmw e60 550i 2007 2008

 

I noticed the problem early and have strengthened the pin contact. In addition, replaced the fog lights with LED bulbs.
I expect to not have any problems with it.

 

Unless you replaced it with LED bulbs and then coded the car to ignore the errors, you have the LED bulbs with built in resistors and those are drawing the same amount of current through the wires. You will see this same thing happen even with the LED bulbs. LED bulbs are only great if they DONT have the error cancelling in them. Thats when you gain the true benefit of LED bulbs. Otherwise you are simply fooling the LCM and nothing else.

 

Unless you replaced it with LED bulbs and then coded the car to ignore the errors, you have the LED bulbs with built in resistors and those are drawing the same amount of current through the wires. You will see this same thing happen even with the LED bulbs. LED bulbs are only great if they DONT have the error cancelling in them. Thats when you gain the true benefit of LED bulbs. Otherwise you are simply fooling the LCM and nothing else.

 

Yes, i forgot to mention that i've coded de LMA to ignore the errors from those two bulbs.

 

this sucks but i got the same roblem about a week ago but I'm on pre lci what can i do so i don't get this problem again

 

Has this issue come back at all for you? What about your other side tail lamp? Also, did you add that additional ground wire?

Thanks,
Parick