nomis_nehc

There are multiple ways to do this. INPA is the most elementary method, manually registering is the best way to ensure. In case you are unaware, battery type/information is located in CAS.

F-Tar

Lols. Not to be rude but, you cannot manually *edit* "BATTERIE_KLASSE" in CAS. With NCS. That will do nothing. If replacing a battery with same spec then only reg is needed. If not, proper coding is needed.

Models with MPM accept reg/histogramm in INPA. Without->tool32.

nomis_nehc

Unfortunately you are. I have been coding when you were still asking silly questions about NCS. I know what I am doing.

Devildawg was not entirely correct. The battery he bought was not the exact same spec as OEM, so editing battery spec was necessary to register properly.

F-Tar

You don't need to cry just cus i'm asking. I also know this one so don't worry about me. There are no silly questions btw.

I'm suprsed actually. If you know codin better then i am. Then you should also know that you'll have to edit VO. Not the freaking CAS. The CAS edit itself after you coded the new settings to CAS according to VO.

-Delete old VO, add new VO (for agm -A090)
-FA_WRITE CAS and LMA
-Code CAS according to VO. (You never edit CAS manually) then check new "BATTERIE_KLASSE" in CAS "90Ah_agm"

Use INPA or Tool32 to register new battery and histogramm.

You tell me if i'm wrong.. And i would love to hear how you do it.

nomis_nehc

Duh, VO was of course modified. Geezus, move on dude.

And for the record, it does sound like you are one of those that just go by those DIY's and don't have an inherent understanding of how coding works. Coding based on VO is simply more of an automated process to "look up and restore values" based on VO. Manually editing parameters supersedes VO values. An example for you would be that an older 2004 I was coding AUX and MP3 for wasn't taking it for whatever reason in VO, however, manually changing the values in CAPPL turned it on.

Just move on. Know you're trying to provide help, but questioning me isn't it.

F-Tar

There are plenty of morons out there so you cannot take it for granted. You could think that u know everything, until somebody says stop. From what i was reading you manipulated the battery coding. Which is fine in some cases, but not this one. Sure u can use my text as diy, but i wasnt intended to. This is from own experience,.

Ofc im trying to help.. Thats why we here right? To help eachother. Some people would appriciate an input, but not you so much. Back on topic.

nomis_nehc

Wtf. Except that you provided nothing new and continue to argue with me. And to correct you again, JR's battery class did need to be changed because specs are different.

And you are absolutely not understanding what I said. You knowledge of coding is rather incomplete, and I truly don't understand what it is you're trying to prove.

I definitely appreciate when I am enlightened or educated with something new, but obviously you're having a hard time grasping that I have actually worked hands on with the car and actually know more details about the car than what was originally described. You're just wasting my time at this point.

balbs

I'm still guessing it's the steering angle sensor (SZL). OP do a test and see if it comes on when you turn the wheel.

devildawg712

Yup, if theres anyone out there that knows all the ins and outs of my car besides me its this man. Thanks to the both of you for your help. Im sure it was all in good intention.

Nah, definitely not the steering angle sensor.

(out of curiosity tho… do you mean like as soon as I turn the wheel its supposed to come on? I've had no such issues or errors so far that pop up in direct correlation to anything determined which is kinda frustrating to say the least. This is why I have to lean towards power.


UPDATE: So my little handy dandy cigarette lighter voltmeter thingumabob came in and so far the levels of power voltages are normal. Per BimmerFan52's advice I monitored the power at all 3 occasions.

With the power on but not the engine the power level was 12.5-12.6V

When the car is started the power sags down to 11.2 and then slowly rises.

And then during the drive the power level bounces around 13.8-14.1


I haven't gone on any extended drives yet so I can't be certain exactly how the car/ alternator will react to that, but the DTC error did go off as expected. I was hoping to see a spike or drop in voltage but it still remained around 13.9-14.2Vs.

As I mentioned before, those are the only 2 errors that I've received so my gut wants me to believe that it's that whole "process of eliminating the least vital electronics of the car when the alternator starts to act up. Thing is, It looks like nothing is friggin wrong with my alternator.

Maybe the Voltage regulator went to poop? Im gunna take the car for a decent drive over the weekend and see how that goes. I think it wouldn't hurt to just swap the alternator for a new one since its about a decade old.

Any of you other GURU's got suggestions feel free to chime in. Thanks again folks.

balbs

Yes. When I had my issue, mine would drive fine for awhile and then if I turn or change lanes, the triangle and circle error would pop up. I would also get a message in the idrive warning me to drive moderately.