amg.pro422@gmail.com

Got 08 with 118k on the odometer. Vin revealed some trips to dealer for injectors only. Ran strong paint and interior in excellent condition. Paid 15k for it and figuered I would have to put some work into it later down the road but At 121k got dreaded reduced power message. Thought it would be hpfp issue but engine seized on me. Code generated for knock sensor and cam timing over retareded before it tapped out. Wife driving it at time so no telling if it was screaming bloody murder before it let go. Oil filer had fine shavings. Drained oil and it had a steady stream of silver like dust in it. Starter could not turn it over. Removed injectors (mix of index 2 & 8's) and spark plugs. No apparent damage or signs of melting due to lean condition.

Never had an engine seize like that on me before and am perplexed at possible root cause. Will conduct further autopsy once I swap engine out to see if a got a bent rod or spun bearings. Could barely turn it over using my legs to push on a ratchet on the crankshaft pulley. Anybody run into this before. According to wife she was coasting to a stop sign, off the throttle when engine seized.

Picked up an n54 with turbos from a wrecked 08 335i with 42k on it for 3400. What's the best way to swap the engine out? Through the bottom or out the front?

dbond

Look under the oil filler cup or better open up the cylinder head cover and inspect for damage and sludge. I won't be surprised if you see a lot of cooked oil there. My theory is somebody neglected to change oil for a while (thanks to BMW extended oil intervals), changed it before selling it. Sludge clogged oil passages and caused bearing failure.

Only Bimmers

BMW calls for pulling the trans off the engine then the engine out of the engine bay. I believe because the weight is too much with the way the engine lift points are. They are brackets instead of molded into the block, etc. Good luck with it and let us know.

amg.pro422@gmail.com

Thanks for the advice guys. Took intake and valve cover off. Intake valves had so much carbon build up I was shocked! Will be ordering oil catch can from burger. Valve train didn't look too sludged up but oil did seem unusually thick now that I think about it. Will be using Royal purple on my new engine.

turboawd

bummer. did you know the history of the car? it may have been abused and dumped.
i'd tear apart the motor and find out what wore out.

amg.pro422@gmail.com

Didn't really know cars history. Ran strong, real clean inside and out little wear on the leather seats for 118k no oil leaks underneath. Feel stupid for missing something major even though I've been wrenching on cars for over two decades. I'm not exactly a newbie and have done my own machine work on my cars(5 angle valve jobs port/polish precision hone et cetera) have bought cars at auction and rebuilt them so I also looked for frame damage but as the old Japanese saying goes "...even monkeys fall out of trees." Should have checked the oil before buying it but I usually don't. Engine idled smoothly and could not hear anything out of the ordinary. Just bad luck I guess.

Rear cylinder intake looks wet like the injector flooded that cylinder with fuel. Have any of u seen an injector go bad on the n54's and hydro lock the engine?

turboawd

that thought crossed my mind. maybe the injector got stuck open, and the fuel washed the oil off the cylinder walls and the piston scraped and seized.

amg.pro422@gmail.com

That's seems like the most probable scenario. Having trouble finding tips on engine removal and replacement. Tips would be greatly appreciated.

Only Bimmers

I can give you general assistance as i just pulled mine out of my 550.

- Make sure you take pictures, notes, or label everything along the way.
- Disconnect both battery cables ad remove battery so you can keep it charged on the side. Use a jumper pack to power the car if needed. Make sure it is powered off while you are working on it.
- Remove your fuel pump fuses (do this, dont ignore)
- Mark around the hood hinges at the hood with a marker and remove hood with a friend.
- Support at jack points on 4 high lift jack stands (Harbor Freight) securely. Do not use the little light weight jack stands, the bigger ones have a wide base and more secure.
- Get the high lift car jack from harbor freight as well. you will need this to clear under the car when removing stuff.
- Remove a 4 wheels (makes is so much easier)
- Get a box of zip locks and label each by item that you are removing.
- Remove all plastic under panels
- Remove Exhaust from cat back.
- Remove the shifter cable where it connects to the transmission. Simple 2 bolts holding it on. Remove the rear drive shaft bolts at the rear differential.
- To get to all of them pull the transmission shift lever underneath the car and spin the drive shaft. Then return it to the lock position so you can put pressure against it.
- Remove the 3 bolts holding the driveshaft to the guibo and remove the DS..
- Remove all heat shields in the way.
- Drain coolant & Oil.
- Remove all engine / engine bay coverings, plates, support bars, etc that are in the way of removing the engine.
- Remove all cooling hoses
- Remove radiator fan and radiator
- start unplugging every engine electrical connector you see easily accessible. - remove coils, plugs
- Remove serpentine belt, deflector and or tensioner pulleys.
- Remove AC belt (may require before or after above item)
- Remove alternator from engine
- Assess power steering so you can unbolt the pump and hang it from your sway bar with heavy wire. This may require routing ars tubing and hoses out of the way, etc. Make sure you drain out the power steering fluid at this time.
- Unbolt the ac compressor and leave it where it is, just nudge it off of the ac support bracket so it it off the engine.
- Open the engine E-Box where your electronics are and disconnect all of the wiring, modules and start pulling them out of the box.
- If you have a vacuum pump take that off the engine and remove the brake booster feeder tube.
- Remove any harness that can be easily disconnected from E-Box. The main harness will need to stay where it is.
- Remove fuel rail and injector assembly. You will need a little fuel disconnect tool from auto parts store.
- Unbolt everything off of the intake and remove what you can, move out of the way what stuff you cant remove.
- Remove intake
- Disconnect all remaining electrical connectors.
- Loosen engine mount upper and lower nuts but dont remove.
- Use a transmission jack like from harbor freight, lower it until you can clearly get to the upper bolts where it connects to the engine. Do not skip using the right jack, you will kill yourself. It will absolutely 100% fall off it on you. DON'T USE A REGULAR JACK, GOT IT??? One more time DON'T USE A REGULAR JACK.
- Unplug the trans harness by rotating the connector.
- Remove all O2 sensors.
- Un-route and disconnect the wiring harness around the trans to the back of the engine. Push it out of the way so you can remove the trans.
- drain the trans in this tilted position and let it sit for a little while.
- strap down the front of the engine at a lift point down to the sway bar so the engine doesnt tilt all the way back when trans is removed. Not the end of the world and wont damage it but lets not invite trouble
- Unbolt 3 torque converter bolts(should be an access hole near the rear of the engine into trans bell housing)
- Unbolt all transmission mounting bolts at engine. Wiggle back and forth lightly and pull back / lower until clear of car.
- Secure engine in upright position somehow. Strap, jack, etc. remove any remaining last min items that appear to be in the way.
- Pull engine harness up into where the intake was and secure it.
- You will have to figure out if the turbo(s) can clear the car without removing before the engine is pulled.
- Remove upper engine mount nuts fully.
- Put blankets on 2 fenders and front of car. - Hoist engine out with 2nd person.
- whew................

amg.pro422@gmail.com

Thanks that's exactly the advise I was searching for.