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Just dropped $1046 at the dealer....and a question

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Old 10-23-2013 | 10:25 AM
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Default Just dropped $1046 at the dealer....and a question

I have attached the invoice for an oil change, 2 new thrust rods and a complete update to all modules. I told them money was tight so they discounted $263.53 off the bill which I assume was just pure extra profit. Anyways car feels great. I brought it in because I had a lurching when down shifting into first just before stopping. Thought it was an update to the trans control module but they said after almost 70k miles the thrust rod bushings were toast which I suspected anyways due to intermittent steering wobble.

Anyways they also mentioned my vacuum pump was leaking oil there at the front of my 4.8 V8. I read here that BMW makes a seal replacement kit so I asked their parts dept and all he showed was one O-ring which they stock (part 11-66-7-509-080 for $13.89). Does this sound like what I have heard referred to? Or there an actual kit with several seals?

Also heard the is an oil pressure switch or something else there that should be replaced as well....?
Attached Thumbnails Just dropped 46 at the dealer....and a question-image.jpg  
Old 10-23-2013 | 01:15 PM
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The kit is just the o-ring. Mine also leaked but, all I did was apply a gasket sealer on the O-ring and re-installed the pump. Some one actually did a great DIY on this.

If you're planning on removing the pump I'd recommend you buy the oil pressure switch and replace it. This switch is notorious for leaking in our engines as mine did. It is a pain to replace with the vacuum pump still on but, it can be done. It is located just under the vacuum pump but further back. I somehow managed to install it with the pump still on. BTW you're gonna need a big ass socket - 27 mm I believe.
Old 10-23-2013 | 02:07 PM
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Thanks e6t.lab.rat! I just bought the seal and the switch. My only question is the YouTube video I saw mentioned having to manually turn the crank with a pry rod to get the vacuum pump seated correctly when reinstalling. Is it really that big of a deal or can I just eye the pump and the gate upon removal and try to line up again on reinstall?
Old 10-23-2013 | 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by ditka550
Thanks e6t.lab.rat! I just bought the seal and the switch. My only question is the YouTube video I saw mentioned having to manually turn the crank with a pry rod to get the vacuum pump seated correctly when reinstalling. Is it really that big of a deal or can I just eye the pump and the gate upon removal and try to line up again on reinstall?
turn the crank to align the pump???
just turn the pump shaft by hand and try installing. if it doesnt go in, turn it a bit more and try again.
Old 10-23-2013 | 05:35 PM
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and what are thrust rod bushings?
Old 10-23-2013 | 06:21 PM
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Originally Posted by turboawd
and what are thrust rod bushings?
+1
There was another post that mentioned them but I scoured the realoem.com catalogs and couldnt find them anywhere.
Old 10-23-2013 | 09:39 PM
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Originally Posted by turboawd
turn the crank to align the pump???
just turn the pump shaft by hand and try installing. if it doesnt go in, turn it a bit more and try again.
The flap swivels up&down, not just clockwise-CCW. If the grove stopped in horizontal position it may take quite an effort to put the pump back in, as the flap keeps tilting down. Might be much faster and easier to crank it until the grove is vertical.

ditka550

Depends what is leaking. Is it the seal in the vacuum pump itself or the seal between VP and the timing cover. And if it's the seal in the vacuum pump, you might want to check a local gasket&seal shop to source a matching one.

and what are thrust rod bushings?
I would guess that's how they called control arm (thrust arm) bushings.


If you're planning on removing the pump I'd recommend you buy the oil pressure switch and replace it. This switch is notorious for leaking in our engines as mine did. It is a pain to replace with the vacuum pump still on but, it can be done. It is located just under the vacuum pump but further back. I somehow managed to install it with the pump still on. BTW you're gonna need a big ass socket - 27 mm I believe.
+1
Consider replacing the oil pressure sensor. And the socket is quite specific: you need a deep one, but not too deep (as it will be hard to fit it in a tight spot there).

Last edited by RTR; 10-23-2013 at 09:45 PM.
Old 10-24-2013 | 08:33 AM
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The o-ring in the pump head leaks too but there is only one place that sells this ring and it is not the dealer. I forgot the site. If you cannot find this o-ring I would clean and dry the o-ring then use some Hondabond 4

sorry here it is

http://www.bmpdesign.com/product-exe...earch_model/15

Last edited by healthservices; 10-24-2013 at 08:35 AM.
Old 10-24-2013 | 09:34 AM
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Thrust arms are the control arms, dealer said they have 3 different names. They said the bushings are sealed and have hydraulic fluid in them and over time they wear down or the fluid leaks out allowing the arm to travel more than it should. The intermittent steering wheel shaking is gone now and overall the car feels WAY tighter and the steering more precise.
Old 10-24-2013 | 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by RTR
+1
Consider replacing the oil pressure sensor. And the socket is quite specific: you need a deep one, but not too deep (as it will be hard to fit it in a tight spot there).
Just checked the size of that deep socket OP is going to need: 24mm deep socket.


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