Just bought an E60 -- can you help me solve all of these problems?
For tranny please do a reset of adaption values with INPA or DISv57 and see if problems go away chances this to help you are very big.
Then after reset of values I would go with a software update of tranny EGS module which can help you for slam from 2-1.
Enjoy your car step by step you can fix all problems.
Then after reset of values I would go with a software update of tranny EGS module which can help you for slam from 2-1.
Enjoy your car step by step you can fix all problems.
Thread Starter
New Members
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 83
Likes: 1
From: Campbell, CA
My Ride: 2010 535i M-Sport
For tranny please do a reset of adaption values with INPA or DISv57 and see if problems go away chances this to help you are very big.
Then after reset of values I would go with a software update of tranny EGS module which can help you for slam from 2-1.
Enjoy your car step by step you can fix all problems.
Then after reset of values I would go with a software update of tranny EGS module which can help you for slam from 2-1.
Enjoy your car step by step you can fix all problems.
I don't know where to start (which machines to use, what hardware (cables) I need, which software to download, etc). Can you offer some assistance here?
Also, for trans adaptation reset, does the pedal-to-the-floor (kickdown) method work with the key in position 2 etc?
How do you update the tranny EGS module? Is this DIY'able?
I noticed now that my 2-1 shifts aren't that bad, but it's more so 1-2, 2-3, and sometimes 3-4 where it'll surge and shoot me back into my seat, almost erratically.
Thread Starter
New Members
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 83
Likes: 1
From: Campbell, CA
My Ride: 2010 535i M-Sport
Placed an order on AutohausAZ based on the feedback from the dealer, as well as some services that I want to complete.
ATF, Automatic Transmission Fluid $59.75
Auto Trans Filter Kit $121.47
Trans Bolts $5.43
Sealing Sleeve $19.70
Front Pad Sensor $11.38
Rear Pad Sensor $15.32
Engine Oil $17.14
Engine OIl $40.39
Oil Drain Plug $2.03
Oil Pan Gasket $45.05
Oil Filter $5.16
Drive Belt $6.93
Serpentine Belt $16.89
Spark Plugs $47.52
Reverse Bulbs $4.38
Tail light bulbs $2.30
I wanted to clear all the check lights, etc so I bought the bulbs that needed replacement. I bought some pad wear sensors as well.
Because the oil pan gasket is leaking, I thought it would be a good time to do a full oil change since I don't even know when the last time this was done. I bought LL01 approved Castrol Edge 5w30.
I bought a new drive/serpentine belt. The service advisor at BMW recommended that the belts be replaced, and that the tensioners only need to be replaced if they're leaking etc.
I'm getting poor fuel economy so I threw in spark plugs because I don't know when they were last changed out. I also got a Mann air filter, and plan to clean my MAF with CRC maf cleaner to see if that'll do anything.
Where should I look next if that doesn't solve my bad mpg problems? O2 sensors? How can those be tested?
Lastly, I bought parts to service the transmission. New trans pan, with filter and gasket. I bought fluid which is the equivalent of shell m-1375.4. I didn't want to shell out the money for ZF Lifeguard 6, and many say the Febi Bilsten/Shell M-1375.4 is an OEM replacement for the ZF fluids.
I also bought a valve body / mechatronics sealing sleeve since those are notorious for causing leaks. I figured since we're ripping off the pan, I can change this as well.
I also bought some extra trans pan bolts in case I strip/destroy some on the R&R.
ATF, Automatic Transmission Fluid $59.75
Auto Trans Filter Kit $121.47
Trans Bolts $5.43
Sealing Sleeve $19.70
Front Pad Sensor $11.38
Rear Pad Sensor $15.32
Engine Oil $17.14
Engine OIl $40.39
Oil Drain Plug $2.03
Oil Pan Gasket $45.05
Oil Filter $5.16
Drive Belt $6.93
Serpentine Belt $16.89
Spark Plugs $47.52
Reverse Bulbs $4.38
Tail light bulbs $2.30
I wanted to clear all the check lights, etc so I bought the bulbs that needed replacement. I bought some pad wear sensors as well.
Because the oil pan gasket is leaking, I thought it would be a good time to do a full oil change since I don't even know when the last time this was done. I bought LL01 approved Castrol Edge 5w30.
I bought a new drive/serpentine belt. The service advisor at BMW recommended that the belts be replaced, and that the tensioners only need to be replaced if they're leaking etc.
I'm getting poor fuel economy so I threw in spark plugs because I don't know when they were last changed out. I also got a Mann air filter, and plan to clean my MAF with CRC maf cleaner to see if that'll do anything.
Where should I look next if that doesn't solve my bad mpg problems? O2 sensors? How can those be tested?
Lastly, I bought parts to service the transmission. New trans pan, with filter and gasket. I bought fluid which is the equivalent of shell m-1375.4. I didn't want to shell out the money for ZF Lifeguard 6, and many say the Febi Bilsten/Shell M-1375.4 is an OEM replacement for the ZF fluids.
I also bought a valve body / mechatronics sealing sleeve since those are notorious for causing leaks. I figured since we're ripping off the pan, I can change this as well.
I also bought some extra trans pan bolts in case I strip/destroy some on the R&R.
They said that they cleared it, and that it came back... Is it worth investing in a SRS/Airbag scan tool? Or should I find an indy or someone else to do this?
Bella, I don't have any coding software but I'd like to get started using something like INPA or NCS expert.
I don't know where to start (which machines to use, what hardware (cables) I need, which software to download, etc). Can you offer some assistance here?
Also, for trans adaptation reset, does the pedal-to-the-floor (kickdown) method work with the key in position 2 etc?
How do you update the tranny EGS module? Is this DIY'able?
I noticed now that my 2-1 shifts aren't that bad, but it's more so 1-2, 2-3, and sometimes 3-4 where it'll surge and shoot me back into my seat, almost erratically.
Bella, I don't have any coding software but I'd like to get started using something like INPA or NCS expert.
I don't know where to start (which machines to use, what hardware (cables) I need, which software to download, etc). Can you offer some assistance here?
Also, for trans adaptation reset, does the pedal-to-the-floor (kickdown) method work with the key in position 2 etc?
How do you update the tranny EGS module? Is this DIY'able?
I noticed now that my 2-1 shifts aren't that bad, but it's more so 1-2, 2-3, and sometimes 3-4 where it'll surge and shoot me back into my seat, almost erratically.
Or to be more easier for you visit this guy http://www.cable-shack.co.uk/products.php and he supports you after that.
Pedal to the floor is effective a bit but just for 2-3 days fhen goes bad again. Inpa adaptions reset is something different.
To fix all issues you have and know more for your mpg etc you will need software like INPA,DISv57 etc because you will know more about errors and how injectors are working,maf etc.
Last edited by bellabmw; Dec 31, 2016 at 04:40 PM.
Thread Starter
New Members
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 83
Likes: 1
From: Campbell, CA
My Ride: 2010 535i M-Sport
Just buy a D+CAN cable from ebay or china then I can show you how to get inpa/disv57/winkfp for flash, ncsexpert etc.
Or to be more easier for you visit this guy Cable-Shack and he supports you after that.
Pedal to the floor is effective a bit but just for 2-3 days fhen goes bad again. Inpa adaptions reset is something different.
To fix all issues you have and know more for your mpg etc you will need software like INPA,DISv57 etc because you will know more about errors and how injectors are working,maf etc.
Or to be more easier for you visit this guy Cable-Shack and he supports you after that.
Pedal to the floor is effective a bit but just for 2-3 days fhen goes bad again. Inpa adaptions reset is something different.
To fix all issues you have and know more for your mpg etc you will need software like INPA,DISv57 etc because you will know more about errors and how injectors are working,maf etc.
Is this good enough? I also have an E39... will I be able to code both?
As for laptops/machines .. what OS do I need? My only computer is a mac laptop.
Thread Starter
New Members
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 83
Likes: 1
From: Campbell, CA
My Ride: 2010 535i M-Sport
As I'm waiting for the INPA cable -- I'm still looking to solve some of the airbag lights...
I bought a passenger seat bypass, but I think that's incorrect... Has anyone ever built a bypass for the BST (battery safety terminal). Will this cure my airbag woes?
Also -- I noticed that a cable was unplugged... my IBS cable? I've read that some people have issues where the IBS causes the battery to drain... should I leave it unplugged? or plug it back in?
I bought a passenger seat bypass, but I think that's incorrect... Has anyone ever built a bypass for the BST (battery safety terminal). Will this cure my airbag woes?
Also -- I noticed that a cable was unplugged... my IBS cable? I've read that some people have issues where the IBS causes the battery to drain... should I leave it unplugged? or plug it back in?
Members
Senior Members
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 297
Likes: 1
From: USA
My Ride: Sold: 545i, sport package, cold weather, 6MT
Model Year: 2004
Engine: N62
Regarding the passenger mirror, I would replace that before it damages your car.
The liquid in those mirrors is highly corrosive and will damage your paint etc. This was a major problem in the E46 and people have had their center interiors ruined by leaking liquid. I caught mine before it leaked out, but was visible to the distortion, such as what you see.
I'm not quite sure what the process is for a side mirror, but for the rearview mirror, I had to take apart the mirror assembly, remove the old mirror plate, soder the new one back onto the connections, then put the mirror housing back together. Ran me about $100 for the mirror.
Alternatively, you may be able to remove the mirror, use a thin knife to separate the two mirror plates, then drain the corrosive material (WEAR GLOVES/GOGGLES), and clean the mirrors before taping or gluing them back together and reinserting in the car. This of course would lose the auto dim function.
The liquid in those mirrors is highly corrosive and will damage your paint etc. This was a major problem in the E46 and people have had their center interiors ruined by leaking liquid. I caught mine before it leaked out, but was visible to the distortion, such as what you see.
I'm not quite sure what the process is for a side mirror, but for the rearview mirror, I had to take apart the mirror assembly, remove the old mirror plate, soder the new one back onto the connections, then put the mirror housing back together. Ran me about $100 for the mirror.
Alternatively, you may be able to remove the mirror, use a thin knife to separate the two mirror plates, then drain the corrosive material (WEAR GLOVES/GOGGLES), and clean the mirrors before taping or gluing them back together and reinserting in the car. This of course would lose the auto dim function.
Thread Starter
New Members
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 83
Likes: 1
From: Campbell, CA
My Ride: 2010 535i M-Sport
Regarding the passenger mirror, I would replace that before it damages your car.
The liquid in those mirrors is highly corrosive and will damage your paint etc. This was a major problem in the E46 and people have had their center interiors ruined by leaking liquid. I caught mine before it leaked out, but was visible to the distortion, such as what you see.
I'm not quite sure what the process is for a side mirror, but for the rearview mirror, I had to take apart the mirror assembly, remove the old mirror plate, soder the new one back onto the connections, then put the mirror housing back together. Ran me about $100 for the mirror.
Alternatively, you may be able to remove the mirror, use a thin knife to separate the two mirror plates, then drain the corrosive material (WEAR GLOVES/GOGGLES), and clean the mirrors before taping or gluing them back together and reinserting in the car. This of course would lose the auto dim function.
The liquid in those mirrors is highly corrosive and will damage your paint etc. This was a major problem in the E46 and people have had their center interiors ruined by leaking liquid. I caught mine before it leaked out, but was visible to the distortion, such as what you see.
I'm not quite sure what the process is for a side mirror, but for the rearview mirror, I had to take apart the mirror assembly, remove the old mirror plate, soder the new one back onto the connections, then put the mirror housing back together. Ran me about $100 for the mirror.
Alternatively, you may be able to remove the mirror, use a thin knife to separate the two mirror plates, then drain the corrosive material (WEAR GLOVES/GOGGLES), and clean the mirrors before taping or gluing them back together and reinserting in the car. This of course would lose the auto dim function.
Also, a quick update.
I just got my D+CAN cable for INPA, just need to find a machine that supports it... Any thoughts on a cheapie machine I can use? Old Dell laptop?
Had a questions about my SRS/Airbag lights. Does INPA read fault codes for airbags? Or do I need an SRS scanner such as Peake?
What can I do with INPA in regards to airbags?
Let me know what you think.
JP


