AchtungE60

2004 530i M54

Long story short, I threw some "Mixture lean" codes a while back. They went off and on. I didn't really notice idling or startup issues at that point. I don't remember the codes but that's not important because i just told you the meanings.
In addition, the emissions code stated I had a vacuum leak. So I just air intake hoses etc and did not find anything...no cracks hoses...Nada.

Air filter is clean.
I checked the oil cap is tightly sealed
Cleaned off MAFS
Plugs and decided to change. I changed them 30K mi ago....damn, see below. I did mention in a post somewhere that I think they're changing gasoline regulations or something.
I checked all my Lamda Probe Readings (Oxygen Sensors) and all good.

It was idling rough and then I did an adaption for ALL SYSTEMS in INPA. It appeared that after that it starts and boggs down like it wants to stall. I have to keep it at about 1200-1500 RPMs or else it shakes.
So I am thinking the problem is definately vacuum as the code states but what exactly.... I am focused on the following:

CCV / Pressure regulating valve / oil separator.............. (in parentheses are my costs)
Pressure reg valve 11617501566 $57.63 ($48)Vent pipe 11611432559 $25.73 ($20)Connecting line 11617504535 $33.8 ($28)Vent hose 11157532649 $15.3 ($12)Return pipe 11617504536 $33.87 ($25)

or possibly.................... (didn't find out until parts dept was closed and thus don't have costs)

POSSIBLE PARTS NEEDED
T-SHAPE IDLE REGULATING VALVE 13411744713 $211.28
Blind plug 1 11617521836 $3.88
O-ring 8X3 1 13621743299 $1.25
Adjuster unit 1 11617544805 $212.50 ????????? Doubt this but who knows
Rubber grommet 1 11611437453 $20.6


Keep in mind I have not noticed my car eating oil at all. I do have a bit of oil collection around the engine but i never go low within the 5K mi changes to need a top off.
Not really worried about the costs because I've had the car for a long time and knew the previous owner and the car hasn't had any issues. I know these parts will not last forever....so since this happened I'm going to be replacing the valve cover gasket and the vanos o-rings as well while i have it apart.
I am looking more toward the first above as my research shows that the exact symptoms I am experiencing could definitely caused by the pressure regulating valve.

I have a 325i 2004 that my wife drives and it just reached 51K miles. Some things are different but for those most part, the same so i am thinking to try hers Pressure regulating valve later... however, i just do not want to be stuck with no vehicle in the meantime so I'm hesitant....especially when these rubber hoses are known to break and fail etc....

I ran a quick test in DIS and since I am not a pro at DIS I don't know really what I am looking for. Obviously the issue is with pressure and idling. I can drive the car but if I slow down at red lights and sit idling then I experience choking....shaking at the intake manifod. When the ignition is engaged I do hear that "popping' sound that sounds like it's coming from the fuel system preparation. Not sure but i have a little project this weekend. I took this while the car was idling...it does say idle is "active" on another diagnosis. Any input would be appreciated.
I did find the following information , and it's right on the target although it's an M52 Engine (not too much differ than M54). If anyone else knows exactly where in DIS I should be diagnosing these let me know. I may try a little later tonight. i haven't the time right now.....

AchtungE60

Ok so i ran a few more tests.............here is what I came up with in order. I'm noticing that it appears to be throttle. Perhaps related to that pressure regulating valve or another sensor. Too tired to really give it thought. Anyone experienced any sort of "throttle" issues related to a specific sensor?

AchtungE60

So there's no replies? I mean come on...is everyone here an "end user" sheeeesh. Anyway Due to the flucuation in cylinder 4 I've decided to switch the coils up and get the same thing. If I am pressing gas the cylinder stays constant where it is and there are no hicups or vibrations. But if it's idle there is an issue.

I shut each fuel injector off one by one and they're all within spec so it's not an injector issue.
I am about to swap out coils on my other engine which runs fine and see what happens. Very well may be dirty fuel or a vacuum issue, perhaps a pinhole where I cannot see.....could be a dirty sensor.

sigh..........after I check coils I'm ripping this baby apart to redo vanos seals and the valve cover gasket and whatever else I can find... brittle hoses etc. Perhaps I'll even do a carbon flush at the injector rail.
Are there no other mechanical minds here ....come on guys about 60 views...

pauliehcfr

I would pay attention to that cylinder number 4. Pull the spark plug and determine its condition. The spark plugs condition can tell you a lot. There are plenty of sites that will walk you through reading a spark plug. You are on the right track by swapping the coil and checking the injectors. However, there maybe something mechanical going on in there as well. Could be a loss of compression in that cylinder due to worn piston rings, a valve that is not seating properly. If the injector and coil don't work, I would suggest a compression check on all the cylnders and compare them to the cylinder #4. BTW, what is that software program you are using for diagnosis? HOw do you like it? what can and can't you do with it?

buddy

also it could be the dissa valve which is the 212.00 dollar item, my car was idleing kinda erratic at lights for about a month then it went really bad one day drove to work as i parked the car it shuddered really badly and died out, I resarted it and it shuddereded again not dyeing out but idleing really rough I hoped that by the end of my work day all would be good :thumbsdown: drove straight to the dealer left the car got a loaner turns out the flap in the dissa valve had broken off of the shaft causeing the issue even though my car was out of warrenty by a long while my friendly mechanic and service writer did the work under warrenty dissa replaced and all has been well price was around 500 hundred dollars done under warrenty.

AchtungE60

DISA VALVE? As in the pressure regulating valve? Or the adjuster unit. by the sounds of it, you're referring to the adjuster unit.....same issue here.. i'ts a $180 part for me. I am going to repair it rather because it will eventually break again with an OEM. So I am going to improve the design so this issue never occurs again. I'll update back. I have to contemplate on getting the vehicle ready by Monday.

I found out by chance after ripping the car apart that it was my intake manifold adjuster unit...the electronical part is perfectly fine.

adjuster unit 111617544805 $212.50

I replaced the spark plugs first.....but since i have ripped apart engine, I took the vanos unit apart to replace the seals with upgraded ones, and a new vanos gasket...., COMPLETE engine oil/sludge flush, carbon flush on instake manifold and injectors and I'll replace the pressure regulating valve and the associated piping...

DIdn't have any complaints besides the P0300 codes and so forth...increased emissions and then the shutters when shutting down and the initial startup hiccuping and heavy idling....simply not acceptable. I know BMW would have spotted this immediately because this is a VERY common fail item. The flap breaks off. THey car 50+ items in stock at a time. lol......this has been a lot of fun. The vanos shaft bolts are left hand threaded....broke both off but easily backed them out of the vanos.


Hey at least I will not have any vacuum leaks, oil leaks etc.... and my vanos will be better than new. I am up and down with this car. I really would like to sell it for an 02 Corolla or a little nissan pikcup with a stick. BARE BONES. Who knows, maybe I'll sell the vehicle in a month or two but until then, I treat him like he's mine forever.....i'd want someone to do the same for me or any future vehicle I obtain.

BTW the diagnosis program is BMW / MINI Group Tester One (GT1) .... it's what they used in the BMW dealerships up until last year now they're all online which is completely absurd. A lot of dealers still use this for diagnosing, programming etc......just tricky to use with no user manuals....and you have to know the mechanics of an engine...specifically a BMW and use your brains. Since dealers get a mass flood of cars with same issues it's second nature to them. Besides BMW are designed to fail in the electronic dept. WTF is with all this cheap plastic and rubber?

tsk

I don't have any input to add regarding diagnostic. There is lots of info on doing the CCV/DISA clean and repair if you go that route. For instance, http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=379225 has a pictorial on cleaning things out and replacing the CCV. Hope it's helpful. Parts wise it's not horrible, but from my recollection the work involves lots of skinned knuckles, swearing, and strange contortions.

AchtungE60

Nice and shiny......I'll put the rest of it back together tonight possibly. The vanos seals have been replaced with Teflon, courtesy of Besian Systems.
http://www.beisansystems.com/index.html

buddy

Glad to be of help mine looked exactly the same shaft broke bad idle look forward to you modification fix, I am sure you would have found the broken part even without my help you seem to be deep into the repair bug

AchtungE60

Thanks. But don't flatter yoursefl.....I found the part before your post succa!
I just wasn't in the mood to get on the PC and type with greasy fingers. As I was dissembling the flap just didn't look right. I actually repaired it and put it through punishment prior to reinstalling to make sure it wont happen again....and trust me, it will not be happening again. In fact, I have improved the quality of the part by far. Now unless the motor goes out....which isn't usually the case on these from talking to several BMW techs.

Well the car would have eventually needed the vanos o-rings (they've been sitting in my glove box since the M56 325CI left my driveway) and a valve cover gasket replacement and so forth. Glad to have done the maintenance thus far....at least i know it's done correctly and I didn't fork over $180 for an inferior part.