F6 may not be a 5 channel amp, you need to drive 5 or 3 channel at least, one mono for the bass (underseat subs) and 4 for the speakers. In 3 ch configuration you need to drive 1 mono and 2 front channels, leave rear to be driven by CCC. I will prefer 3 channel setup but since cost difference isn't that high I went for 5 channel. I am not sure if 4 channel can work here. For S/N ratio I can't hear those tiny difference, it may be for audiophiles but to my normal ears it hardly makes a difference. Did you consider JL/HD series, I have heard good reviews about it.

One important thing for PDX 5, its low level amp means input to the amp must be low level but CCC outputs speakers level in standard audio so you will need a high to low converter, I didn't consider this when planning my setup and ended up spending a bit more then planned. LC6i is the best converter I have heard and subsequently used. I am happy with it, is does a good job. Previously I had a cheap converter and it was prone of all sorts of interference and problems, since I have LC6i I am a happy, its totally noiseless. You may want to upgrade the underseats subs too so keep in mind Earthquake is good option but its not straight fit as boasted by other forum members. It nearly fits but some tweaking is required to the enclosure to fully seal it. Just making you aware with the issues I went thru.

L7 AMP retrofit is useless, you will need programming to enable it first and then you will need to route additional wires to the rear doors and fit in new speakers there and then add one more in the center console, not really worth it.

 

Some people say that PDX bass end isn't that good but I don't find it true, my PDX's birthsheet says 350 (or 450 watts can't remember) for the bass which is plenty to drive 2x150w earthquake. I remember when it took shit out of me once I turned on the speaker just to test my configuration and PDX mono was set on high and I had only one Earthquake connected to it. Earthquake wasn't even installed it was just on the boot floor, I was testing connections. As soon as power turned on speaker started jumping around and I couldn't even get hold of it. I saw smoke coming from speakers before I pulled the wires out, I thought speaker is gone but luckily it survived. Earthquake's death could have halted my audio upgrade project completely.

ebay "Alpine 1" 360W Soft Dome Balanced Car Tweeter DDT-S30" for tweeter, this is what I used, may not be the best one but works great in my setup. Also I used Diamond Audio D343i in the doors. As time is passing by speakers are sounding even better. :-) Its just my choice there are better products out there in the market but this is what was a good compromise between quality and the price for my project.

 

Thanks... Sounds convincing enough to me.
Just looked up the LC6i, and that one is a pre-Amp... OK.

As you can tell, I don't know too much about electronics/HiFi components; a decent Amplifier for my home HiFi system was all I ever needed... Trust this will change now/with this project...

 

Looks like we're on the same wavelength, buddy (as far as your balance between price, value & quality is concerned)!!!
Besides, I don't care much about a bass anyway, as I'm not listening to Hip-Hop or Rap. And that's why I won't need too much bass to be happy . Which means, a "middle-of-the-road" HiFi setup will be just fine for me.


Looks like I'll go along with your suggestions, AI001.
I like the idea of installing a "tried & proven" car HiFi solution like yours, without having to fu** around too much with finding "THE perfect" components. Besides, anything will sound better - and probably also lift up the volume levels - than what I have right now.... -- Can't wait to start buying parts!

 

You have CCC, don't you? Add up cost of PDX 5 with LC6i with JL HD series and see if they come close, they they do then go for JL.
Regarding bass once you get earthquakes it is shallow mounted and there isn't enough room bounce more then what PDX can drive, so those audiophiles looking for high bass may need to extra box in the boot, not what you are looking at? are you?

 

Exsqueeze me... what's "CCC"?

 

You are correct... I'm not looking to add a subwoofer in my trunk.
I'll check out the JL HD; thx!

 

CCC = Car Communication Computer, old one upto 2010 replaced by new computer in F10 series



CIC = Car Infotainment Computer, new one (I am retrofitting ) much improved, default on F10 but can be retrofitted

 

Thanks for the "CCC" explanation... Yep, mine is a 2007 model ==> CCC

As far as the current upgrade parts list is concerned, I came up (quick check only...) with the following numbers:

Alpine PDX-5.....$370.00 (via Amazon)
Pre-Amp LC6i....$135.00 (via Amazon)
=======
$505.00

JL HD600/4........$545.00 (via Amazon)

DDTS-30 Tweeters...$ 45.00/pair (eBay)

Considering that there's just a $40 price difference between Alpine and JL Amps, I'd definitely go with the JL.


HOWEVER...
What about the speakers in the rear... meaning the doors and the window/parcel shelf?? Looks like they won't get an upgrade in this scenario, huh?
What would I have to do to include those as well? Get an Amp with more channels?

Don't know for sure, but having tweeters/speakers in the rear doors and some better speakers in the back would probably be a good idea and provide a "better sound experience"... wouldn't it?

 

Stock rear speakers will do. I even heard people saying stock front door speakers are also good enough but I just changed it. I won't bother rear ones. Its there just to fill the rear cabin, all game goes on in front. Better rear speaker may drag the sound stage back which isn't good. Sound stage should be right in the center in front of you, not in the back. JL is good, I have heard good reviews of them. I wish I could afford one, now I am not going back. Ideally my dream setup will be:

CIC HiFi givng low balanced output
JL HD AMP
Morel speakers all round including subs (with better seals)

its just dream, I am sure it won't realize now.