Replying to my own post since I figured I'd just google this..

It seems a few ways to figure out if you have L7 are:

- You have the in-dash CD changer (not just single CD)
- You have Logic7 or L7 options in your audio settings
- You have subs under your seats and can feel them when blasting music
- Speakers in your passenger doors <-- This one I am not sure on.. just saw it on a 3 series thread and it didn't seem fully backed up elsewhere

 

best indicator is the logic 7 options. non-L7's only have treble/bass to adjust. i believe there is a speaker on the middle of the dash as well, whereas non-7's it's just an empty cover

 

You have standard 6 speakers if:
No tweeters in the front doors tweeters enclosure
No tweeters on the parcel shelf
No AMP in the rear boot (where tcu is)
Only bass and treble settings on the iDrive
No speakers in the rear doors

You have HiFi 10 speakers setup if:
Tweeters in the front doors tweeters enclosure
Tweeters on the parcel shelf
Small AMP in the rear boot (where tcu is)
No speakers in the rear doors

You have Logic7 13 speakers setup if:
All in the HiFi +
Speakers in the rear doors
Speaker in the center dash board
Big AMP in the rear boot (near tcu)
Extended iDrive settings, I believe it should say Logic7 somewhere in the menu

 

I thought the cd changer only came in the glove box. There's a small chance I'm wrong but I have logic 7 and my changer is in the glove box. My car is pre-lci though.

 

Standard sucks - Hyundai puts better base audio in there circa 1980's vehicles.
BMW needs a customer group to critique there cars before they release them. It would certainly save us proud and loyal owners a lot of misery.. and complaining!
On that note - if the car is nice don't let that stop you.. For $1000-2000 you'll be laughing with a Nice aftermarket system!

 

how hard is it to get logic7 in your car?

 

If you have the silver amp shown in the pic then you have L7.
Totally agree with Al001's definitions. Would also add iDrive contains an equalizer and other options. Not aware of any in-dash CD changers.

 

<- logic 7 owner

+1 on the "probably buying a sub" comment

+1 on the "mids and highs are completely, unvelieveably, crisp and flawless"

+1 on "equalizer option is cool"

also the surround options are cool but if you like your bump youll only ever notice that you wish you had a couple 12's in the back

 

mmmmh...

Looks like I will need an amplifier first then, as I have the basic audio option (=non L7).
I thought I had an amplifier in the trunk, though a "weak" one, but based on what all you guys are saying (which makes perfect sense, by the way...) I don't need to bother looking in my trunk/behind the panels... as there will be none to replace/switch out.

Dang!
I was really hoping for a simple solution like a switcheroo to increase the sound level/volume when playing iPod tunes in my car.
I am aware that L7 includes more than just an amplifier, but that would be already a great improvement in my case, since I am not very picky about "sound quality"... as long as it's loud ... he he!

Does anyone have some BASIC instructions with lots of pictures - and explanations in LAYMAN's TERMS - on how to add an Amplifier to the basic audio setup???

I'd be happy to take the plunge an mess with my car's electronics again, as long as it is a feasible step-by-step project...


Would really appreciate your guys' input... Thanks!

 

ZGERMAN, I am sorry I don't have a document detailing step by step instructions but its overall like this:

First verify you are on basic audio, HiFi is also non-L7 so information below won't apply there. You shouldn't have any amp at all, check if you have tweeters, if no tweeters then definitely its standard audio, no HiFi, no L7.

Do your upgrade in stages, first add L7 tweeters in the empty tweeters cavity and you will see huge improvement there itself. For this you need to take off the door card put new tweeters there. here is a guide. If you have some money to spare I would suggest to buy Moral 4" drivers with tweeters, they sound awesome from what I read on various forums, they are pricey, if you want this then do it with your tweeters upgrade in stage 1. Should not take more then 1-1.5 hrs. You won't need to visit this section again.

Many people just stopped there as they said it was good enough for them, I doubt once this upgrade fever catches you it will stop there so you might go further adding an amp and thats when difficulty starts.

To add amp you need to take the center console trim off and take out the CCC computer, insert a harness between stock wiring to the CCC which will intercept 4 pair of high level audio signal and take it to the amp and then bring back the amplified signal to the speakers, all PnP no need to cut a single wire. Now you need to route that cable all the way to the boot and put an amp there, you are done. Easier said, it took me best part of a month (only weekends) to understand the cabling diagram, parts to arrive and know how to do the job, now I can do all in a day, but whoever says they can do it in 4 hours they are professional.

To use your newly installed amp to fullest you need to upgrade stock 6" underseat woofers to earthquake 8" or equivalent, they would sound brilliant. Earthquake DIY is available everywhere. Choose amp of your choice, I used PDX-5 (low signal level amp so you need driver too), Blaupunkt is good, JL Audio is brilliant I have heard but it was beyond my budget. You can either have 5 channel amp (4 for the speakers and one single mono for the underseat subs) or just 4 channel (2 for the front doors and two for the subs)