I would assume having insert the key in the dash board and have everything functioning (radio, aircon etc) but without starting the engine. Someone with a start button can verify.

 

Some additions to my earlier post;

If the battery voltage falls below 11.4V the heated mirrors will be de-activated and they will not be re-activated untill the voltage goes to 12.2V.

Also if your outside temperature sensor is faulty then the OBC reading defaults to -40C, at which time your mirrors and nozzles will be stuck in full heat mode.

 

I must belive this is fact, but when starting your car (key Pos 2), you usually go.

Also if the battery goes under voltage, you have serious problems anyway.

Forget about these under - 40 C / F temps.

All these three thesis are very hypothetical and has nothing to do with everydaydriving
for us who really drive under these conditions 3-4 months every year.


Going back to the real problem, the potential icy mirrows do not start melting if the darn OBC
do not get the situation, and pretty often in the spring it doesn't

 

2 presses of the start button; the steering wheel adjusts, vents blow air.

1 press is radio mode.

 

To your real problem. As I mentioned, take the glass mirrors off and use your ammeter to see if there is current draw. If there is then your mirrors are working. Its also worth spraying some contact cleaner on the connectors. If not comfortable with this test then your dealer can test it for you for a fee.

 

Related question - do the mirrors defrost at the same speed on your cars? My right mirror seems to defrost much more quickly than the left.

 

I will not take any mirrows off and start any AMP tests!

The problem is with the programming.

I have seen my mirrows defrost in this short winter a lots of times.

But if the night temperature goes below ie -10 C and and is at 9 am
above 4 C , the systems doesn't work.

Now said twice!

 

They should defrost at the same speed and at about 2 mins any frost or ice (reasonable amount - sorry swedish guys) should melt. What you can do;
1. Take the mirror crystals off
2. Disconnect the heating wires
3. Measure the resistance of the crystals with an omh-meter. Should be identical or close
4. Measure the voltage supplied to the mirrors (on wires you disconnected from the mirrors). Should be identical.

In your case there is of the following things happening;
1. The resistance of the heating elements is far apart for various reasons such as defective part, different OEMs (Ask dealer to replace the mirror glass with the higher resistance)
2. If the resistance is the same spray the connector and the wires of the heating element with contact cleaner.
3. If the voltage supplied to the mirrors is not the same (in your case the mirror that defrosts later should provide less voltage than the other side) then ask the dealer to investigate the door modules.

Good luck

 

Not sure what software you have been provided in Finland but here in the US the mirrors are heated the way I described above and certainly are not activated by turning the heated steering wheel on or the rear defroster. Perhaps your dealer can confirm this. I have a hard time believing that BMW AG has provided different software just for Finland.

PS Now you can claim you have been angry about this feature with 7-8 Beemers

 

Mine weren't working so well at first. Then my SA installed some new fangled update. Think it was part of the CIP update.